Woodshop Epoxy Board Checklist

Overview

This records sequence of steps to follow when creating a river epoxy

Steps

• Prepare the slab
  • Pre-requisites: wood
  • Cut to appropriate length based on mold
  • Pro-tip: If using the HDPE molds, cut at same angle as mold to reduce epoxy waste
  • Cut out enough to make river of appropriate size from the middle
  • Debark completely. If not removed, the bark will become the weak link. We've had a board separate at the bark line during demolding

• Prepare the mold
  • Apply demolding spray
  • Seal corners inside and outside if using hand-made mold. Apply additional tape as necessary
  • Do a dry run to make sure wood fits touching the bottom
  • Prepare weights or anchors to hold down the wood
  • Set slab inside the mold

• Prepare the epoxy
  • Remove watches and lift sleeves
  • Prepare a few pairs of disposable gloves. Wear one pair
  • Preparing mixing cup, stir stick, and small spoons for dye/mica
  • Mix by volume or weight depending on epoxy, aim for precision in the ratios. More on estimating volume later
  • Stir until the strands are gone
  • Stir until there is no abrupt resistance anywhere
  • Stir while constantly scraping all the sides
  • Stir some more, and then some more. Most failures stem from insufficient mixing
  • Apply color sparingly. Dyes will dissolve and impart a tint. Mica powder will get suspended and create an opaque or translucent epoxy
  • Mix thoroughly. Tilt to assess what 1-inch will look like
  • Carry the mixing cup to the garbage can to throw away the stirring stick

• Actual Pour
  • Set the mold on a level surface. If it will be curing in the epoxy cabinet, set it on a drawer there first
  • Pour starting in the middle slowly
  • Don't let epoxy drip anywhere, more on this later
  • Pop all the surface bubbles with a butane torch, being careful to not touch the epoxy surface
  • Let epoxy cure for appropriate amount of time

• Modifications for embedments and/or transparent epoxy
  • Plan carefully for embedments. If they hold air (e.g. seashell), they need to be filled and let cure. If they float, they'll need to be glued down or else they'll float.
  • Mock the layout and height, and stay away at least 1/4 inch from the edges
  • Mix and pour initial layer, about ~1/4 inch
  • Mix a small clear batch and coat the wood sides fully to prevent air bubbles from seeping into the epoxy during cure
  • Let epoxy cure either fully or enough to make sure embedments won't sink to the bottom
  • If set fully, scuff up with sandpaper before adding subsequent layer
  • If you used embedments, recommend that you keep the top layer clear or minimally dyed, and keep it shallow but enough to allow planing the top surface

FIXME: reached here