https://www.i3detroit.org/wi/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Sputnik&feedformat=atomi3Detroit - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T13:16:23ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.31.1https://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Laser_Cutter_-_Bumblebee&diff=5885Laser Cutter - Bumblebee2013-08-02T18:34:22Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
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<div>There are two of these. They have 3'x4' beds and 150 watt tubes. This one is named Bumblebee. It is identical to [[Laser Engraver - Wolverine|Wolverine]], except that whereas Bumblebee is yellow and black, Wolverine is yellow and very dark navy blue.<br />
<br />
{{Equipment <br />
<br />
| Name = Bumblebee<br />
<br />
| Owner = Group-owned, purchased with funds collected from far and wide.<br />
<br />
| StorageLocation = West wall, you can't miss it.<br />
<br />
| MakeModel = Jinan G. Weike / WKLaser LC1280<br />
<br />
| Documentation = <br />
The setup manual, [[File:OPERATIONAL_MANUAL_OF_MACHINE_xin_USB.pdf]] is worth reading, if only for a laugh.<br />
Inside the cutter, a [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html Leetro MPC6515 control board] coordinates the motors and laser firing. Its [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/MPC6515%20%20Manual.pdf documentation] is freely downloadable.<br />
So much grief has arisen from the awful state of the documentation and software, that an entire [http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/phpBB3/index.php Chinese laser support forum] has arisen for the hapless owners of these machines help each other.<br />
<br />
<br />
There is also [[Laser Cutting for Dummies]] on our wiki.<br />
<br />
| LooksLike = <br />
[[File:Laser_cutter_110212.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]<br />
<br />
| Rules =<br />
<br />
Operation of the laser cutter must be done under the supervision of one of the trained operators. Trained operators are: Matt A, Roger S, Nate B, Terry W.<br />
<br />
i3Detroit asks that users donate $25 per hour that the beam is active. This is to replace consumables, especially the expensive bulb. There is a wooden donation box. <br />
<br />
Do not cut or etch any plastics or other materials that contain chlorine or vinyl. A trace amount of chlorine, such as found in the glue in thin plywood or the resin of medium density fiberboard, is acceptable. Particle board has too much glue. You are responsible to know whether there is chlorine in your material before you try to cut it.<br />
<br />
If you cut plexiglass, please be sure that it is acrylic and not polycarbonate. Look along the cut edge of the material, from the side. Polycarbonate is dark on this area; acrylic is light. Polycarbonate is one of the most dangerous materials you could try to laser. It instantly starts producing yellow, acrid, toxic fumes which will corrode your lungs, and the mechanisms and lens of the laser. When the lens clouds up with these fumes, it may reflect the laser back into the machine, which may melt the head and set the machine on fire. You may not be able to reach the fire extinguisher due to what is in your lungs. Both these outcomes will upset the community. <br />
<br />
*[http://www.buildlog.net/blog/2010/07/laser-cut-vinyl-record-bad-idea/ Cutting vinyl:&nbsp;bad idea!] <br />
*[http://www.cnczone.com/forums/laser_engraving_cutting_machines/56833-co2_laser_pvc_cutting.html Cutting PVC, Lexan, polycarbonates:&nbsp;bad idea!]<br />
<br />
===Materials List===<br />
*Cut or etch: Acrylic, Delrin, Leather, Matte Board Chip Board (AKA architect modeling board), Melamine, Model Foam, Rubber, Wood (natural or veneer) <br />
*Etches but does not successfully cut: Glass, Coated Metals, Painted Metals, Ceramic, Tile, Marble<br />
*Cuts but does not take etching very well: Cloth, Paper, Mylar <br />
*Banned: Human flesh (yes, this has come up), Polycarbonate (Lexan etc.), PVC, Particle Board, any plastic if you don't know for sure it is Delrin or Acrylic <br />
<br />
| Instructions =<br />
<br />
Get material that will fit on the bed of the laser cutter, which is 3'x4': 4 feet wide from left to right, and 3 feet long from the front to the back. Your piece must be able to fit on the bed itself, because the bed will lower to put the surface of your material in focus. However, in case anyone needs to know the whole interior of the bay for some reason: there is 51 inches of clearance between the two rails the gantry runs on (the same width as the machine's bay door). 51 inches is also the measurement from the front lip to the back wall of the machine, but the door itself takes up 3/4 of an inch of that. <br />
<br />
You will need access to vector graphics software to design your parts. So far, DXF files seem to work the least-bad of the various vector filetypes, so use them. LaserCut is good for putting finished art into the laser, but barely adequate for designing art.<br />
<br />
Materials which can be cut, can normally be cut up to about 3/16 of an inch. Some materials can be cut thicker with multiple passes. The thickest cut so far was of 1" thick acrylic. However, that required that it be cut from the opposite side, while flipped over and perfectly registered.<br />
<br />
When cutting parts on the laser, you will use the software to set the cutting speed and power. If we have cut the material you are using before, you can refer to the power and speed recommendations in this list. Otherwise - experiment! Bring some scrap material to do test cuts on until you find a cut you are satisfied with. After that, record your power and speed settings in the list:<br> <br />
<br />
<br />
===Power and Speed Rankings===<br />
<br />
TW- I have noticed that the laser seems to lose power over time. To better get a handle on this I am going to start running Cut Rankings. Every time I use the laser, I will make a test of small squares on the 1/8 mdf, which is usually around as scrap, for cutting at 100 power. They will be staggered at speeds of 5.10.15.20. I will put the results and date. If others could do this to we might start to see what we need to do.<br />
<br />
* Cut means fall out / Popout means req'd push to release / No Cut means not seperable<br />
* 6/2/13 1/8 MDF 5 CUT 10 CUT 15 POPOUT 20 NO CUT<br />
* 6/9/13 1/8 MDF 5 CUT 10 CUT 15 POPOUT 20 POPOUT<br />
* 6/10/13 1/8 MDF 5 CUT 10 CUT 15 CUT 20 POPOUT<br />
* 6/11/13 1/8 MDF 5 CUT 10 CUT 15 POPOUT 20 POPOUT<br />
* 6/12/13 1/8 MDF 5 No CUT 10 NO CUT 15 NO CUT 20 NO CUT<br />
* 7/31/13 1/8 mdf 30 cut 33 cut 37 popout 40 popout<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
In general: <br />
<br />
*Lower speeds allow for lower cutting power, which saves life on the laser tube. <br />
*Lower speeds cut a wider "kerf" (thickness of cut) through the material. <br />
*At higher speeds the cut is faster but requires higher power, which uses up the laser tube faster. <br />
*High power on wood and paper may cause some discoloration near the cuts (browning color from burned material).<br />
<br />
Time-of-cut checklist:<br />
# Place material (square to edge of honeycomb).<br />
# Cover inactive honeycomb area except an "intake" in front of the material. This directs smoke away from the gantry. <br />
# Turn on POWER STRIP on floor behind cutter. This should bring up the chiller and air-assist pump.<br />
# Gently pinch rubber hose from laser to chiller, to trigger chiller alarm, verifying that it's awake.<br />
# Assure the exhaust is open on the back of the unit, right next to the chiller. Slide the door all the way open (to the left).<br />
# Turn keyswitch to on, and wait for boot and home to complete.<br />
# With the D-pad, jog head over to start of cut.<br />
# Press "Z" to enter the mode to raise or lower the bed. <br />
# Keep one hand over emergency-stop. Press "Datum" to auto-focus. <br />
# Press "Z" again to exit Z mode.<br />
# Wave hand under head and verify that air-assist is blowing.<br />
# Download design from LaserCut software.<br />
# Keep one hand over emergency-stop while using the "Test" button to check boundaries.<br />
# Turn on the exhaust fan (black switchbox on wall).<br />
# Lift the fire extinguisher and set it back down. This verifies that your muscle-memory knows where it is.<br />
# Press "Start".<br />
# DO NOT WALK AWAY. See http://www.thinkhaus.org/2011/04/03/lazzoring-is-serious-business/ for why.<br />
# When cutter finishes, observe elapsed time on LCD and put money into box.<br />
<br />
| OtherReferences =<br />
<br />
http://boxmaker.rahulbotics.com/ makes wonderful box patterns that you can put into the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
| MaintenanceInfo =<br />
<br />
How To Calibrate The Auto-Focus<br />
<br />
From time to time the auto-focus gets out of alignment for various reasons gradual or sudden. The depth-finding plunger is at the wrong height. One of two things have usually happened. A. The lens cylinder has telescoped in itself, because the thumb screw that forms its lip was loosened, so calibration is done by pushing it back in place and re-tightening it; or, B. the depth-finding plunger is at the wrong height on the lens cylinder.<br />
<br />
Regardless of which of those parts you are adjusting, use the huge acrylic brick which is on the shelves to measure your success and determine whether to go up or down. Put the block under the laser, do an auto-focus, and mash the "Laser" button for several seconds. The resulting hole will get thinner as it goes down, and then thicken out. This matches the shape of the beam. When the narrowest point of the hole (where the beam is most concentrated) is as close to the surface of the acrylic block as possible, this means the auto-focus plunger is at the correct height.<br />
<br />
If you are not telescoping the actual lens cylinder itself, you will adjust the bracket that connects the auto-focus plunger to the lens cylinder. The bracket tightens on both ends, where it grips both those things. Ideally you would move the bracket where it grips the lens cylinder, not where it grips the plunger. But at the moment (April 2013), the clear plastic screws that tighten the bracket on the lens cylinder have their heads broken off from use. Roger is finding replacements for them. In the meantime, use the hex wrench in the white plastic tub to loosen the screw in the bracket which holds in the plunger.<br />
<br />
Gently twist the plunger and pull up or down to adjust its elevation within the bracket. This twist will keep it from jumping up or down farther than you intend to. You'll probably want to just barely nudge it up or down. Then tighten the bracket and burn another focus hole. Repeat until the narrowest part of the hole is at the surface of the block.<br />
<br />
| ToDos = <br />
<br />
;New cylinders to hold different lenses, <br />
:...to make it easy and safe to change them without smudging or damage. Sector67 has indicated they may make some of these. (The existing cylinder has too narrow an opening for the lens that gives a long focal length. Its beam is so wide that it hits the lip and heats up the cylinder.)<br />
;Payment-measuring timer.<br />
:One way to do this would be to measure current to the machine and time how long it runs at laser-firing power. It would be good to put a button on the timer that would re-set it to zero.<br />
:Another way, used at other spaces, is to use the "blow" output contact from the controller, which is meant to trigger the air-assist, in case bottled gas is being used for special cutting. <br />
<br />
===Done===<br />
<br />
;Payment box.<br />
:Greg Smith made it.<br />
;Laptop desk.<br />
:Standing desk built by [[user:Dustinbikes|Dustin White]] & Ted Hansen.<br />
;Aperture in the chassis, through which to thread the blue USB cable with a grommet.<br />
:Instead, we discovered an exit under the machine and threaded it through that. [[user:Mattarnold|Matt Arnold]] used sugru on the side of the standing desk for a place to attach the end of the cable when unused.<br />
<br />
| FAQs =<br />
<br />
A list of commonly asked questions<br />
<br />
1) If I have a jpeg file, how do I etch it on a piece of acryllic?<br />
<br />
2) If I set speed on LaserCut, what does the SPEED % mean on the display of the LaserCutter?<br />
<br />
3) I have a jpeg of a line drawing. How can I cut a piece of acryllic using that line drawing?<br />
<br />
4) Do I need training to use the LaserCutter? If so, how do I get it?<br />
<br />
5) Why do we have 2 LaserCutters?<br />
<br />
<br />
== TroubleShooting ==<br />
<br />
'''When running TEST I get a SOFT STOP message on screen and no test.'''<br />
That usually means your cut runs off the laser table. Check your origin point on the file and where you have the laser head starting. Sometimes it means that Logical Origin is set to ON which places your cut off the table, no matter where you have manually set the laser head.<br />
<br />
'''How can I turn off Logical Origin?'''<br />
To Cancel Logical Origin we will use the keys on the Control Panel on the Laser and the Control Panel Display.<br />
<br />
1) Hit ESC 3 times.<br />
<br />
2) Hit the RETURN key (the one with an arrow that goes down and to the left). This should highlight the current file name.<br />
<br />
3) Hit RETURN again. This should pop you to the Logical Origin screen.<br />
<br />
4) Hit Right Arrow until the field Cancel Logical Origin YES is highlighted.<br />
<br />
5) Hit RETURN.<br />
<br />
That should do it.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''My Test doesn't start where my laser head is and I have turned Logical Origin off'''<br />
Make sure and check the IMMEDIATE box and save before Downloading AND turn off Logical Origin to allow the origin to be the manually set position of the laser head.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
}}</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Graphtec_SignJet_1130&diff=5684Graphtec SignJet 11302013-06-27T16:33:47Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
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<div>Home of the [[Vinyl_Cutter-US_Cutter_Refine_MH-720]]<br />
<br />
'''New project!''' Rehab the Graphtec SignJet 1130 since it can print and cut<br />
<br />
*Things to do:<br />
**<STRIKE>Find it a proper home</STRIKE><br />
**<STRIKE>Clean it up</strike><br />
**<STRIKE>Power it on</STRIKE><br />
**Replace sheet latches (find 3D models, which may be on the desktop machine in the Fab Lab)<br />
**<STRIKE>No cutter! Terry has ordered one</STRIKE><br />
**<STRIKE>Need an HP parallel to ethernet interface box</STRIKE><br />
**Get Signcut Pro software - http://www.signcutpro.com/signcut or whatever works<br />
<br />
*To make it work as a printer too more things will need to happen (not sure we want or need to go down this road)<br />
**Determine how to affix ink bottles<br />
**Clean tubing (don't use acetone)<br />
**Check print heads and replace if necessary</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Graphtec_SignJet_1130&diff=5683Graphtec SignJet 11302013-06-27T16:32:52Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>Home of the [[Vinyl_Cutter-US_Cutter_Refine_MH-720]]<br />
<br />
'''New project!''' Rehab the Graphtec SignJet 1130 to replace the above.<br />
<br />
*Things to do:<br />
**<STRIKE>Find it a proper home</STRIKE><br />
**<STRIKE>Clean it up</strike><br />
**<STRIKE>Power it on</STRIKE><br />
**Replace sheet latches (find 3D models, which may be on the desktop machine in the Fab Lab)<br />
**<STRIKE>No cutter! Terry has ordered one</STRIKE><br />
**<STRIKE>Need an HP parallel to ethernet interface box</STRIKE><br />
**Get Signcut Pro software - http://www.signcutpro.com/signcut or whatever works<br />
<br />
*To make it work as a printer too more things will need to happen (not sure we want or need to go down this road)<br />
**Determine how to affix ink bottles<br />
**Clean tubing (don't use acetone)<br />
**Check print heads and replace if necessary</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Graphtec_SignJet_1130&diff=5208Graphtec SignJet 11302013-05-20T17:23:12Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>Home of the [[Vinyl_Cutter-US_Cutter_Refine_MH-720]]<br />
<br />
'''New project!''' Rehab the Graphtec SignJet 1130 to replace the above.<br />
<br />
*Things to do:<br />
**Find it a proper home<br />
**<STRIKE>Clean it up</strike><br />
**<STRIKE>Power it on</STRIKE><br />
**Replace sheet latches (find 3D models, which may be on the desktop machine in the Fab Lab)<br />
**<STRIKE>No cutter! Terry has ordered one</STRIKE><br />
**Need an HP parallel to ethernet interface box<br />
**Get Signcut Pro software - http://www.signcutpro.com/signcut<br />
<br />
*To make it work as a printer too more things will need to happen (not sure we want or need to go down this road)<br />
**Determine how to affix ink bottles<br />
**Clean tubing (don't use acetone)<br />
**Check print heads and replace if necessary</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Laser_Cutting_for_Dummies&diff=5064Laser Cutting for Dummies2013-05-01T12:49:24Z<p>Sputnik: /* Dummies Honor Roll */</p>
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<div>== Laser Cutting for Dummies ** ==<br />
<br />
This primer is intended to get the abject novice to be able to cut or etch a simple pattern with our LaserCutter. It does not describe the optimal methods of use, just a single, simple method that has been tested to work. If you get stuck please append a NOTE FROM USERS to the bottom of this page and we will review if the primer needs modification. <br />
<br />
<br />
== Dummies Honor Roll ==<br />
<br />
''If you use this tutorial and successfully make your first piece, please edit the wiki and place your name on the Dummies Honor Roll.''<br />
<br />
Terry W.<br />
<br />
Dan Eklund<br />
<br />
== What the Laser Cutter Does ==<br />
<br />
Using the Laser Cutter is a two stage process. In Stage 1 you need to make or convert a drawing into "Vector Graphics" and output the drawing in a DXF format file. (Don't worry if those terms don't make sense to you yet, we will define them later).<br />
<br />
In Stage 2 you will load your DXF file into the workstation at the Laser Cutting station and using a program called LaserCut, you will command the Laser Cutter to make your piece.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Stage 1 Making the DXF file ==<br />
<br />
Laser Cutters use a type of graphics called "Vector Graphics". Vector Graphics drawings are made by such packages as AutoCad, CorelDraw, Adobe Illustrator, OpenScad and Inkscape. You make a drawing of a circle, and the Laser Cutter will cut a line using the circle as its path. You can etch the area inside the circle (i.e. the disc) by telling the Laser Cutter that the circle isn't a "Cut Path" but rather an "Etch Area" later in Stage 2.<br />
<br />
Most Laser Cutting newbies have some existing drawings that they want to cut or etch. This takes two steps. If the drawing isn't in a Vector Graphics form, we have to get it there. Once there, we have to convert it to a DXF file.<br />
<br />
The second one is usually easy. The first is usually not. Many newbs have Bit Map drawings, even if the drawing is of lines, like the blueprint of a boat. The newb has to find a way to convert the existing drawing into a Vector Graphics drawing. This can be hard, even for non-dummies, and is beyond the scope of this document. If you have non-Vector images that need conversion and you need some help, see the Zone Warden or post the problem on Google Groups for help.<br />
<br />
If you are creating new drawings the task is easier. Again, you may be using many packages to make your Vector Drawing for Laser Cutting. I will give you a simple example on a common package, Inkscape.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Make your drawing on InkScape in YOUR laptop ==<br />
<br />
0) Download Inkscape onto your laptop.<br />
<br />
1) Open new inkscape drawing.<br />
<br />
2) Change Layer1 name to “CUT”<br />
<br />
3) Set drawing to fill = NONE<br />
<br />
4) Set stroke color to BLACK set stroke width to something you can see, like 4 pixels.<br />
<br />
5) DRAW your Cuts.<br />
<br />
6) Add Layer 2<br />
<br />
7) Change Layer2 name to “ETCH”<br />
<br />
8) Set stroke color to RED.<br />
<br />
9) Draw your etching boundaries.<br />
<br />
10) Save all to file extension .dxf - use LWPolyLine when prompted.<br />
<br />
11) Move the .dxf file to a flashdrive to carry to the Laser Cutter Workstation.<br />
<br />
12) DONE<br />
<br />
<br />
Example 1<br />
<br />
[[File:Test1.png]]<br />
Figure 1 - The way it looks on the screen<br />
<br />
On this page we have a black circle on CUT layer, a red circle on ETCH layer and two red circles concentric on ETCH. Figure 1.<br />
<br />
The way the laser works for etching, is that it scans, left to right, top to bottom, toggling the etch laser between ON and OFF whenever it crosses a ETCH line. This means that etching will fill in simple outlines, but when outlines are nested, the patterns invert. So that the finished product of Example 1 will look like Fig 2.<br />
<br />
[[File:Test2.png]]<br />
Figure 2 - The way it looks on the material<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Stage 2 Using the DXF file to run the Laser Cutter ==<br />
<br />
1) Plug in your flashdrive into the dedicated Lasercutting Laptop on the Laser Workbench. Logon to the laptop with user LaserCut. Move your yourfile.dxf file to the MyDocuments folder.<br />
<br />
2) Open LaserCut.<br />
<br />
3) Import yourfile.dxf<br />
<br />
4) Select all figures with a Cntr-A. Unite the lines with TOOLS/UNITE LINES. Use default tolerance. Let me explain what this does. Sometimes in the line drawing of a closed loop, like a hexagon, two adjacent sides dont actually touch. Their endpoints get really, really close, but don't touch. UNITE LINES closes the gap so it is a continuous line.<br />
<br />
5) Lasercut assigns different attributes to lines of different colors. Thus our Black Lines are one group and our Red Lines are another. In the box at the Upper Left of the screen you will see the color groups and the attributes of each. Make sure your color group for the lines of cuts are designated as CUTS and the etch color groups as ETCH. Make sure your CUT layer is last and ENGRAVE is first(top). Change order if needed by selecting the layer with a mouse click on the color of the layer in the box on the upper right and use the UP and DOWN buttons beneath to change order. You always want to etch before cutting the boundary of a piece. When the boundary is cut, the piece comes loose from the bulk material and can shift a bit. If you etch last, they may be off by that shift. Etching first means the object keeps registration with the holes. In a similar vein, if your piece has interior holes, like screw holes, you need make the interior holes a special color and make sure that color group is cut before the boundary line of the piece.<br />
<br />
6) Use LASER/SELECT ORIGIN to set which corner of the drawing will be used as origin. I usually use lower right.<br />
<br />
6) Save the drawing as a selected name (i.e. filename.ecl -- NB: Lasercut only supports file names up to 8 characters plus extension.). This is an important step. Lasercut will not let you download instructions to the Laser Cutter until you have saved.<br />
<br />
== Turn on the LaserCUTTER ==<br />
<br />
0) Touch the fire extinguisher, located on the front of the Laser Cutter, on the right.<br />
<br />
0.5) There is cash box for using the laser cutter. Running it ages the replaceable laser tube and uses power. We ask that you contribute $10/hr of lasing, minimum $1.<br />
<br />
1) Turn on the coolent pump and air compressor by turning on the outlet strip behind BumbleBee.<br />
<br />
2) Pinch the clear rubber hose which supplies coolant. If things are working you should get an audible alarm. Release pinch.<br />
<br />
3) Confirm air compressor is working by checking for airflow. Open the lid on Bumblebee and place your hand under the laser head. You should feel airflow.<br />
<br />
4) Turn on Key Switch on BumbleBee.<br />
<br />
5) Turn on fan with toggle switch on wall west of Bumblebee.<br />
<br />
6) Scrap material is in milk crate and under laser workbench. Usable by all.<br />
<br />
7) Place your material in Bumblebee on honeycomb platter area which holds the material. Make sure material is flat. You can use the lead weights nearby to flatten warped material, or lay weight outside material to trap in place. Make sure weights are NOT in path of laserhead for your design.<br />
<br />
8) On the laptop, in LaserCut, hit the DOWNLOAD button on the right lower portion of the screen.<br />
<br />
9) In the resulting dialog box press Download Current.<br />
<br />
10) The Front Panel Controls (FPC) on Bumblebee moves the laser through multiple “layers” of control. Each press of ESC on the FPC pops you “up” one level of command. Once on the top layer another press of ESC does nothing. You can always make sure you are at the Top Layer of control by pressing ESC three times. Press ESC on BumbleBee front panel controls(FPC) three times to get to the Top Layer of Control. Press the carriage return key (also known as the ENTER key with the symbol of the arrow going down and left) once. This will highlight the names of the files which have been downloaded. Press the UP or DOWN arrow keys until Yourfilename is shown on Bumblebee's front panel display (FPD). <br />
<br />
11) Press ESC on the FPC three times to get to the Top Layer of Control. Use the up/down/left/right arrow buttons on the FPC to manually move the laser head. Move the laser head over your material so that the metal plunger, located on the head to the right of the black laser nozzle, is over the material you are using.<br />
<br />
12) Press ESC on the FPC multiple times to ensure you are on top control layer. Press Z and then Datum on the FPC and the laser will automatically set laser depth. When finished press Z again.<br />
<br />
13) From Top Layer of control, use the arrow buttons to move the red aiming dot over the material. Position the dot in the corner of the material which you set for the Origin, usually the Lower Right. Usually place the dot slightly in from an edge. The aiming dot is close, but not exactly where the laser hits, depending on the depth of the material bed. Usually it is within 1mm or so.<br />
<br />
14) From the Top Layer of Control hit TEST to show a bounding box of where the laser will cut. Make sure it is always over the material for the full box. If it beeps and doesn't move, giving a reading of “SOFTSTOP” on the FPD this means your bounding box is off the platter. Readjust your starting position of the head manually until your bounding box is completely on the honeycomb platter always over your material.<br />
<br />
15) When your bounding box is where you want close lid.<br />
<br />
16) Press START/PAUSE on FPC. You can PAUSE the laser with another hit to this button if trouble arises.<br />
<br />
17) When DONE go to Top Layer of Control with three hits of ESC. Then press DATUM to return head to safety position.<br />
<br />
18) Open lid. Remove materials.<br />
<br />
19) Shut down LaserCutter with the 3 switches used previously.<br />
<br />
20) Move the SAVED .ecl file from LaserCut to your flashdrive for archiving.<br />
<br />
21) Remove flash drive and close laptop.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== NOTES FROM USERS ==<br />
<br />
<br />
This space intended for comments/problems/suggestions from newbs who have used this primer.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<nowiki>**</nowiki> ''Laser Cutting for Dummies'' is NOT associated with, or a product of, John Wiley and Sons, whose "...For Dummies" series is a highly successful set of instructional books covering a myriad of topics, such as ''Brain Surgery for Dummies'', ''Matt Millen's NFL Draft Strategies for Dummies'', and the newly released ''Sequestering for Dummies''.</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Laser_Cutting_for_Dummies&diff=5063Laser Cutting for Dummies2013-05-01T12:49:02Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Laser Cutting for Dummies ** ==<br />
<br />
This primer is intended to get the abject novice to be able to cut or etch a simple pattern with our LaserCutter. It does not describe the optimal methods of use, just a single, simple method that has been tested to work. If you get stuck please append a NOTE FROM USERS to the bottom of this page and we will review if the primer needs modification. <br />
<br />
<br />
== Dummies Honor Roll ==<br />
<br />
''If you use this tutorial and successfully make your first piece, please edit the wiki and place your name on the Dummies Honor Roll.''<br />
<br />
Terry W.<br />
Dan Eklund<br />
<br />
<br />
== What the Laser Cutter Does ==<br />
<br />
Using the Laser Cutter is a two stage process. In Stage 1 you need to make or convert a drawing into "Vector Graphics" and output the drawing in a DXF format file. (Don't worry if those terms don't make sense to you yet, we will define them later).<br />
<br />
In Stage 2 you will load your DXF file into the workstation at the Laser Cutting station and using a program called LaserCut, you will command the Laser Cutter to make your piece.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Stage 1 Making the DXF file ==<br />
<br />
Laser Cutters use a type of graphics called "Vector Graphics". Vector Graphics drawings are made by such packages as AutoCad, CorelDraw, Adobe Illustrator, OpenScad and Inkscape. You make a drawing of a circle, and the Laser Cutter will cut a line using the circle as its path. You can etch the area inside the circle (i.e. the disc) by telling the Laser Cutter that the circle isn't a "Cut Path" but rather an "Etch Area" later in Stage 2.<br />
<br />
Most Laser Cutting newbies have some existing drawings that they want to cut or etch. This takes two steps. If the drawing isn't in a Vector Graphics form, we have to get it there. Once there, we have to convert it to a DXF file.<br />
<br />
The second one is usually easy. The first is usually not. Many newbs have Bit Map drawings, even if the drawing is of lines, like the blueprint of a boat. The newb has to find a way to convert the existing drawing into a Vector Graphics drawing. This can be hard, even for non-dummies, and is beyond the scope of this document. If you have non-Vector images that need conversion and you need some help, see the Zone Warden or post the problem on Google Groups for help.<br />
<br />
If you are creating new drawings the task is easier. Again, you may be using many packages to make your Vector Drawing for Laser Cutting. I will give you a simple example on a common package, Inkscape.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Make your drawing on InkScape in YOUR laptop ==<br />
<br />
0) Download Inkscape onto your laptop.<br />
<br />
1) Open new inkscape drawing.<br />
<br />
2) Change Layer1 name to “CUT”<br />
<br />
3) Set drawing to fill = NONE<br />
<br />
4) Set stroke color to BLACK set stroke width to something you can see, like 4 pixels.<br />
<br />
5) DRAW your Cuts.<br />
<br />
6) Add Layer 2<br />
<br />
7) Change Layer2 name to “ETCH”<br />
<br />
8) Set stroke color to RED.<br />
<br />
9) Draw your etching boundaries.<br />
<br />
10) Save all to file extension .dxf - use LWPolyLine when prompted.<br />
<br />
11) Move the .dxf file to a flashdrive to carry to the Laser Cutter Workstation.<br />
<br />
12) DONE<br />
<br />
<br />
Example 1<br />
<br />
[[File:Test1.png]]<br />
Figure 1 - The way it looks on the screen<br />
<br />
On this page we have a black circle on CUT layer, a red circle on ETCH layer and two red circles concentric on ETCH. Figure 1.<br />
<br />
The way the laser works for etching, is that it scans, left to right, top to bottom, toggling the etch laser between ON and OFF whenever it crosses a ETCH line. This means that etching will fill in simple outlines, but when outlines are nested, the patterns invert. So that the finished product of Example 1 will look like Fig 2.<br />
<br />
[[File:Test2.png]]<br />
Figure 2 - The way it looks on the material<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Stage 2 Using the DXF file to run the Laser Cutter ==<br />
<br />
1) Plug in your flashdrive into the dedicated Lasercutting Laptop on the Laser Workbench. Logon to the laptop with user LaserCut. Move your yourfile.dxf file to the MyDocuments folder.<br />
<br />
2) Open LaserCut.<br />
<br />
3) Import yourfile.dxf<br />
<br />
4) Select all figures with a Cntr-A. Unite the lines with TOOLS/UNITE LINES. Use default tolerance. Let me explain what this does. Sometimes in the line drawing of a closed loop, like a hexagon, two adjacent sides dont actually touch. Their endpoints get really, really close, but don't touch. UNITE LINES closes the gap so it is a continuous line.<br />
<br />
5) Lasercut assigns different attributes to lines of different colors. Thus our Black Lines are one group and our Red Lines are another. In the box at the Upper Left of the screen you will see the color groups and the attributes of each. Make sure your color group for the lines of cuts are designated as CUTS and the etch color groups as ETCH. Make sure your CUT layer is last and ENGRAVE is first(top). Change order if needed by selecting the layer with a mouse click on the color of the layer in the box on the upper right and use the UP and DOWN buttons beneath to change order. You always want to etch before cutting the boundary of a piece. When the boundary is cut, the piece comes loose from the bulk material and can shift a bit. If you etch last, they may be off by that shift. Etching first means the object keeps registration with the holes. In a similar vein, if your piece has interior holes, like screw holes, you need make the interior holes a special color and make sure that color group is cut before the boundary line of the piece.<br />
<br />
6) Use LASER/SELECT ORIGIN to set which corner of the drawing will be used as origin. I usually use lower right.<br />
<br />
6) Save the drawing as a selected name (i.e. filename.ecl -- NB: Lasercut only supports file names up to 8 characters plus extension.). This is an important step. Lasercut will not let you download instructions to the Laser Cutter until you have saved.<br />
<br />
== Turn on the LaserCUTTER ==<br />
<br />
0) Touch the fire extinguisher, located on the front of the Laser Cutter, on the right.<br />
<br />
0.5) There is cash box for using the laser cutter. Running it ages the replaceable laser tube and uses power. We ask that you contribute $10/hr of lasing, minimum $1.<br />
<br />
1) Turn on the coolent pump and air compressor by turning on the outlet strip behind BumbleBee.<br />
<br />
2) Pinch the clear rubber hose which supplies coolant. If things are working you should get an audible alarm. Release pinch.<br />
<br />
3) Confirm air compressor is working by checking for airflow. Open the lid on Bumblebee and place your hand under the laser head. You should feel airflow.<br />
<br />
4) Turn on Key Switch on BumbleBee.<br />
<br />
5) Turn on fan with toggle switch on wall west of Bumblebee.<br />
<br />
6) Scrap material is in milk crate and under laser workbench. Usable by all.<br />
<br />
7) Place your material in Bumblebee on honeycomb platter area which holds the material. Make sure material is flat. You can use the lead weights nearby to flatten warped material, or lay weight outside material to trap in place. Make sure weights are NOT in path of laserhead for your design.<br />
<br />
8) On the laptop, in LaserCut, hit the DOWNLOAD button on the right lower portion of the screen.<br />
<br />
9) In the resulting dialog box press Download Current.<br />
<br />
10) The Front Panel Controls (FPC) on Bumblebee moves the laser through multiple “layers” of control. Each press of ESC on the FPC pops you “up” one level of command. Once on the top layer another press of ESC does nothing. You can always make sure you are at the Top Layer of control by pressing ESC three times. Press ESC on BumbleBee front panel controls(FPC) three times to get to the Top Layer of Control. Press the carriage return key (also known as the ENTER key with the symbol of the arrow going down and left) once. This will highlight the names of the files which have been downloaded. Press the UP or DOWN arrow keys until Yourfilename is shown on Bumblebee's front panel display (FPD). <br />
<br />
11) Press ESC on the FPC three times to get to the Top Layer of Control. Use the up/down/left/right arrow buttons on the FPC to manually move the laser head. Move the laser head over your material so that the metal plunger, located on the head to the right of the black laser nozzle, is over the material you are using.<br />
<br />
12) Press ESC on the FPC multiple times to ensure you are on top control layer. Press Z and then Datum on the FPC and the laser will automatically set laser depth. When finished press Z again.<br />
<br />
13) From Top Layer of control, use the arrow buttons to move the red aiming dot over the material. Position the dot in the corner of the material which you set for the Origin, usually the Lower Right. Usually place the dot slightly in from an edge. The aiming dot is close, but not exactly where the laser hits, depending on the depth of the material bed. Usually it is within 1mm or so.<br />
<br />
14) From the Top Layer of Control hit TEST to show a bounding box of where the laser will cut. Make sure it is always over the material for the full box. If it beeps and doesn't move, giving a reading of “SOFTSTOP” on the FPD this means your bounding box is off the platter. Readjust your starting position of the head manually until your bounding box is completely on the honeycomb platter always over your material.<br />
<br />
15) When your bounding box is where you want close lid.<br />
<br />
16) Press START/PAUSE on FPC. You can PAUSE the laser with another hit to this button if trouble arises.<br />
<br />
17) When DONE go to Top Layer of Control with three hits of ESC. Then press DATUM to return head to safety position.<br />
<br />
18) Open lid. Remove materials.<br />
<br />
19) Shut down LaserCutter with the 3 switches used previously.<br />
<br />
20) Move the SAVED .ecl file from LaserCut to your flashdrive for archiving.<br />
<br />
21) Remove flash drive and close laptop.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== NOTES FROM USERS ==<br />
<br />
<br />
This space intended for comments/problems/suggestions from newbs who have used this primer.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<nowiki>**</nowiki> ''Laser Cutting for Dummies'' is NOT associated with, or a product of, John Wiley and Sons, whose "...For Dummies" series is a highly successful set of instructional books covering a myriad of topics, such as ''Brain Surgery for Dummies'', ''Matt Millen's NFL Draft Strategies for Dummies'', and the newly released ''Sequestering for Dummies''.</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Graphtec_SignJet_1130&diff=5047Graphtec SignJet 11302013-04-29T16:49:18Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>Home of the [[Vinyl_Cutter-US_Cutter_Refine_MH-720]]<br />
<br />
'''New project!''' Rehab the Graphtec SignJet 1130 to replace the above.<br />
<br />
*Things to do:<br />
**Find it a proper home<br />
**<STRIKE>Clean it up</strike><br />
**Power it on<br />
**Replace sheet latches (find 3D models, which may be on the desktop machine in the Fab Lab)<br />
**<STRIKE>No cutter!</STRIKE> Terry has ordered one<br />
**Need an HP parallel to ethernet interface box<br />
**Get Signcut Pro software - http://www.signcutpro.com/signcut<br />
<br />
*To make it work as a printer too more things will need to happen (not sure we want or need to go down this road)<br />
**Determine how to affix ink bottles<br />
**Clean tubing (don't use acetone)<br />
**Check print heads and replace if necessary</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Graphtec_SignJet_1130&diff=5017Graphtec SignJet 11302013-04-22T03:47:05Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>Home of the [[Vinyl_Cutter-US_Cutter_Refine_MH-720]]<br />
<br />
'''New project!''' Rehab the Graphtec SignJet 1130 to replace the above.<br />
<br />
*Things to do:<br />
**Find it a proper home<br />
**<STRIKE>Clean it up</strike><br />
**Power it on<br />
**Replace sheet latches (find 3D models, which may be on the desktop machine in the Fab Lab)<br />
**No cutter! Terry has/will order a couple<br />
**Need an HP parallel to ethernet interface box<br />
**Get Signcut Pro software - http://www.signcutpro.com/signcut<br />
<br />
*To make it work as a printer too more things will need to happen (not sure we want or need to go down this road)<br />
**Determine how to affix ink bottles<br />
**Clean tubing (don't use acetone)<br />
**Check print heads and replace if necessary</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Graphtec_SignJet_1130&diff=5016Graphtec SignJet 11302013-04-22T03:44:50Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>Home of the [[Vinyl_Cutter-US_Cutter_Refine_MH-720]]<br />
<br />
'''New project!''' Rehab the Graphtec SignJet 1130 to replace the above.<br />
<br />
*Things to do:<br />
**Find it a proper home<br />
<STRIKE>**Clean it up</strike><br />
**Power it on<br />
**Replace sheet latches (find 3D models, which may be on the desktop machine in the Fab Lab)<br />
**Check cutter head<br />
**Get Signcut Pro software - http://www.signcutpro.com/signcut<br />
<br />
*To make it work as a printer too more things will need to happen (not sure we want or need to go down this road)<br />
**Determine how to affix ink bottles<br />
**Clean tubing (don't use acetone)<br />
**Check print heads and replace if necessary</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Graphtec_SignJet_1130&diff=5008Graphtec SignJet 11302013-04-18T17:48:32Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>Home of the [[Vinyl_Cutter-US_Cutter_Refine_MH-720]]<br />
<br />
'''New project!''' Rehab the Graphtec SignJet 1130 to replace the above.<br />
<br />
*Things to do:<br />
**Find it a proper home<br />
**Clean it up<br />
**Power it on<br />
**Replace sheet latches (find 3D models, which may be on the desktop machine in the Fab Lab)<br />
**Check cutter head<br />
**Get Signcut Pro software - http://www.signcutpro.com/signcut<br />
<br />
*To make it work as a printer too more things will need to happen (not sure we want or need to go down this road)<br />
**Determine how to affix ink bottles<br />
**Clean tubing (don't use acetone)<br />
**Check print heads and replace if necessary</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Graphtec_SignJet_1130&diff=5007Graphtec SignJet 11302013-04-18T17:47:49Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>Home of the [[Vinyl_Cutter-US_Cutter_Refine_MH-720]]<br />
<br />
'''New project!''' Rehab the Graphtec SignJet 1130 to replace the above.<br />
<br />
Things to do:<br />
<br />
**Find it a proper home<br />
**Clean it up<br />
**Power it on<br />
**Replace sheet latches (find 3D models, which may be on the desktop machine in the Fab Lab)<br />
**Check cutter head<br />
**Get Signcut Pro software - http://www.signcutpro.com/signcut<br />
<br />
To make it work as a printer too more things will need to happen (not sure we want or need to go down this road)<br />
<br />
**Determine how to affix ink bottles<br />
**Clean tubing (don't use acetone)<br />
**Check print heads and replace if necessary</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Graphtec_SignJet_1130&diff=5006Graphtec SignJet 11302013-04-18T17:35:16Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>Home of the [[Vinyl_Cutter-US_Cutter_Refine_MH-720]]<br />
<br />
'''New project!''' Rehab the Graphtec SignJet 1130 to replace the above.<br />
<br />
Things to do:<br />
<br />
<li>Find it a proper home<br />
<li>Clean it up<br />
<li>Power it on<br />
<li>Replace sheet latches (find 3D models, which may be on the desktop machine in the Fab Lab)<br />
<li>Check cutter head<br />
<li>Get Signcut Pro software - http://www.signcutpro.com/signcut<br />
<br><br />
<p><br />
<br />
To make it work as a printer too more things will need to happen (not sure we want or need to go down this road)<br />
<br />
<li>Determine how to affix ink bottles<br />
<li>Clean tubing (don't use acetone)<br />
<li>Check print heads and replace if necessary</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Graphtec_SignJet_1130&diff=5005Graphtec SignJet 11302013-04-18T17:33:56Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>Home of the [[Vinyl_Cutter-US_Cutter_Refine_MH-720]]<br />
<br />
'''New project!''' Rehab the Graphtec SignJet 1130 to replace the above.<br />
<br />
Things to do:<br />
<br />
<li>Find it a proper home<br />
<li>Clean it up<br />
<li>Power it on<br />
<li>Replace sheet latches (find 3D models, which may be on the desktop machine in the Fab Lab)<br />
<li>Check cutter head<br />
<li>Get Signcut Pro software - http://www.signcutpro.com/signcut<br />
<br />
To make it work as a printer too more things will need to happen (not sure we want or need to go down this road)<br />
<li>Determine how to affix ink bottles<br />
<li>Clean tubing (don't use acetone)<br />
<li>Check print heads and replace if necessary</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Graphtec_SignJet_1130&diff=5004Graphtec SignJet 11302013-04-18T17:29:25Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>Home of the [[Vinyl_Cutter-US_Cutter_Refine_MH-720]]<br />
<br />
'''New project!''' Rehab the Graphtec SignJet 1130 to replace the above.<br />
<br />
Things to do:<br />
<br />
<li>Find it a proper home<br />
<li>Clean it up<br />
<li>Power it on<br />
<li>Replace sheet latches (find 3D models, which may be on the desktop machine in the Fab Lab)<br />
<li>Check cutter head<br />
<li>Get Signcut Pro software - http://www.signcutpro.com/signcut</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Graphtec_SignJet_1130&diff=5003Graphtec SignJet 11302013-04-18T17:26:51Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>Home of the [[Vinyl_Cutter-US_Cutter_Refine_MH-720]]<br />
<br />
New project! Rehab the Graphtec SignJet 1130 to replace the above.<br />
<br />
Things to do:<br />
<br />
<li>Find it a proper home<br />
<li>Clean it up<br />
<li>Power it on<br />
<li>Replace sheet latches (find 3D models, which may be on the desktop machine in the Fab Lab)<br />
<li>Check cutter head</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Laser_Cutter_-_Bumblebee&diff=4988Laser Cutter - Bumblebee2013-04-15T13:36:28Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>There are two of these. They have 3'x4' beds and 150 watt tubes. This one is named Bumblebee. It is identical to [[Laser Engraver - Wolverine|Wolverine]], except that whereas Bumblebee is yellow and black, Wolverine is yellow and very dark navy blue.<br />
<br />
{{Equipment <br />
<br />
| Name = Bumblebee<br />
<br />
| Owner = Group-owned, purchased with funds collected from far and wide.<br />
<br />
| StorageLocation = West wall, you can't miss it.<br />
<br />
| MakeModel = Jinan G. Weike / WKLaser LC1280<br />
<br />
| Documentation = <br />
The setup manual, [[File:OPERATIONAL_MANUAL_OF_MACHINE_xin_USB.pdf]] is worth reading, if only for a laugh.<br />
Inside the cutter, a [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html Leetro MPC6515 control board] coordinates the motors and laser firing. Its [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/MPC6515%20%20Manual.pdf documentation] is freely downloadable.<br />
So much grief has arisen from the awful state of the documentation and software, that an entire [http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/phpBB3/index.php Chinese laser support forum] has arisen for the hapless owners of these machines help each other.<br />
<br />
<br />
There is also [[Laser Cutting for Dummies]] on our wiki.<br />
<br />
| LooksLike = <br />
[[File:Laser_cutter_110212.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]<br />
<br />
| Rules =<br />
<br />
Operation of the laser cutter must be done under the supervision of one of the trained operators. <br />
<br />
i3Detroit asks that users donate $10 per hour that the beam is active. This is to replace consumables, especially the expensive bulb. There is a wooden donation box. <br />
<br />
Do not cut or etch any plastics or other materials that contain chlorine or vinyl. A trace amount of chlorine, such as found in the glue in thin plywood or the resin of medium density fiberboard, is acceptable. Particle board has too much glue. You are responsible to know whether there is chlorine in your material before you try to cut it.<br />
<br />
If you cut plexiglass, please be sure that it is acrylic and not polycarbonate. Look along the cut edge of the material, from the side. Polycarbonate is dark on this area; acrylic is light. Polycarbonate is one of the most dangerous materials you could try to laser. It instantly starts producing yellow, acrid, toxic fumes which will corrode your lungs, and the mechanisms and lens of the laser. When the lens clouds up with these fumes, it may reflect the laser back into the machine, which may melt the head and set the machine on fire. You may not be able to reach the fire extinguisher due to what is in your lungs. Both these outcomes will upset the community. <br />
<br />
*[http://www.buildlog.net/blog/2010/07/laser-cut-vinyl-record-bad-idea/ Cutting vinyl:&nbsp;bad idea!] <br />
*[http://www.cnczone.com/forums/laser_engraving_cutting_machines/56833-co2_laser_pvc_cutting.html Cutting PVC, Lexan, polycarbonates:&nbsp;bad idea!]<br />
<br />
===Materials List===<br />
*Cut or etch: Acrylic, Delrin, Leather, Matte Board Chip Board (AKA architect modeling board), Melamine, Model Foam, Rubber, Wood (natural or veneer) <br />
*Etches but does not successfully cut: Glass, Coated Metals, Painted Metals, Ceramic, Tile, Marble<br />
*Cuts but does not take etching very well: Cloth, Paper, Mylar <br />
*Banned: Human flesh (yes, this has come up), Polycarbonate (Lexan etc.), PVC, Particle Board, any plastic if you don't know for sure it is Delrin or Acrylic <br />
<br />
| Instructions =<br />
<br />
Get material that will fit on the bed of the laser cutter, which is 3'x4': 4 feet wide from left to right, and 3 feet long from the front to the back. Your piece must be able to fit on the bed itself, because the bed will lower to put the surface of your material in focus. However, in case anyone needs to know the whole interior of the bay for some reason: there is 51 inches of clearance between the two rails the gantry runs on (the same width as the machine's bay door). 51 inches is also the measurement from the front lip to the back wall of the machine, but the door itself takes up 3/4 of an inch of that. <br />
<br />
You will need access to vector graphics software to design your parts. So far, DXF files seem to work the least-bad of the various vector filetypes, so use them. LaserCut is good for putting finished art into the laser, but barely adequate for designing art.<br />
<br />
Materials which can be cut, can normally be cut up to about 3/16 of an inch. Some materials can be cut thicker with multiple passes. The thickest cut so far was of 1" thick acrylic. However, that required that it be cut from the opposite side, while flipped over and perfectly registered.<br />
<br />
When cutting parts on the laser, you will use the software to set the cutting speed and power. If we have cut the material you are using before, you can refer to the power and speed recommendations in this list. Otherwise - experiment! Bring some scrap material to do test cuts on until you find a cut you are satisfied with. After that, record your power and speed settings in the list:<br> <br />
<br />
<br />
===Power and Speed Settings===<br />
None yet<br />
<br />
In general: <br />
<br />
*Lower speeds allow for lower cutting power, which saves life on the laser tube. <br />
*Lower speeds cut a wider "kerf" (thickness of cut) through the material. <br />
*At higher speeds the cut is faster but requires higher power, which uses up the laser tube faster. <br />
*High power on wood and paper may cause some discoloration near the cuts (browning color from burned material).<br />
<br />
Time-of-cut checklist:<br />
# Place material (square to edge of honeycomb).<br />
# Cover inactive honeycomb area except an "intake" in front of the material. This directs smoke away from the gantry. <br />
# Turn on POWER STRIP on floor behind cutter. This should bring up the chiller and air-assist pump.<br />
# Gently pinch rubber hose from laser to chiller, to trigger chiller alarm, verifying that it's awake.<br />
# Turn keyswitch to on, and wait for boot and home to complete.<br />
# With the D-pad, jog head over to start of cut.<br />
# Press "Z" to enter the mode to raise or lower the bed. <br />
# Keep one hand over emergency-stop. Press "Datum" to auto-focus. <br />
# Press "Z" again to exit Z mode.<br />
# Wave hand under head and verify that air-assist is blowing.<br />
# Download design from LaserCut software.<br />
# Keep one hand over emergency-stop while using the "Test" button to check boundaries.<br />
# Turn on the exhaust fan (black switchbox on wall).<br />
# Lift the fire extinguisher and set it back down. This verifies that your muscle-memory knows where it is.<br />
# Press "Start".<br />
# DO NOT WALK AWAY. See http://www.thinkhaus.org/2011/04/03/lazzoring-is-serious-business/ for why.<br />
# When cutter finishes, observe elapsed time on LCD and put money into box.<br />
<br />
| OtherReferences =<br />
<br />
http://boxmaker.rahulbotics.com/ makes wonderful box patterns that you can put into the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
| MaintenanceInfo =<br />
<br />
How To Calibrate The Auto-Focus<br />
<br />
From time to time the auto-focus gets out of alignment for various reasons gradual or sudden. The depth-finding plunger is at the wrong height. One of two things have usually happened. A. The lens cylinder has telescoped in itself, because the thumb screw that forms its lip was loosened, so calibration is done by pushing it back in place and re-tightening it; or, B. the depth-finding plunger is at the wrong height on the lens cylinder.<br />
<br />
Regardless of which of those parts you are adjusting, use the huge acrylic brick which is on the shelves to measure your success and determine whether to go up or down. Put the block under the laser, do an auto-focus, and mash the "Laser" button for several seconds. The resulting hole will get thinner as it goes down, and then thicken out. This matches the shape of the beam. When the narrowest point of the hole (where the beam is most concentrated) is as close to the surface of the acrylic block as possible, this means the auto-focus plunger is at the correct height.<br />
<br />
If you are not telescoping the actual lens cylinder itself, you will adjust the bracket that connects the auto-focus plunger to the lens cylinder. The bracket tightens on both ends, where it grips both those things. Ideally you would move the bracket where it grips the lens cylinder, not where it grips the plunger. But at the moment (April 2013), the clear plastic screws that tighten the bracket on the lens cylinder have their heads broken off from use. Roger is finding replacements for them. In the meantime, use the hex wrench in the white plastic tub to loosen the screw in the bracket which holds in the plunger.<br />
<br />
Gently twist the plunger and pull up or down to adjust its elevation within the bracket. This twist will keep it from jumping up or down farther than you intend to. You'll probably want to just barely nudge it up or down. Then tighten the bracket and burn another focus hole. Repeat until the narrowest part of the hole is at the surface of the block.<br />
<br />
| ToDos = <br />
<br />
;New cylinders to hold different lenses, <br />
:...to make it easy and safe to change them without smudging or damage. Sector67 has indicated they may make some of these. (The existing cylinder has too narrow an opening for the lens that gives a long focal length. Its beam is so wide that it hits the lip and heats up the cylinder.)<br />
;Payment-measuring timer.<br />
:One way to do this would be to measure current to the machine and time how long it runs at laser-firing power. It would be good to put a button on the timer that would re-set it to zero.<br />
<br />
===Done===<br />
<br />
;Payment box.<br />
:Greg Smith made it.<br />
;Laptop desk.<br />
:Standing desk built by [[user:Dustinbikes|Dustin White]] & Ted Hansen.<br />
;Aperture in the chassis, through which to thread the blue USB cable with a grommet.<br />
:Instead, we discovered an exit under the machine and threaded it through that. [[user:Mattarnold|Matt Arnold]] used sugru on the side of the standing desk for a place to attach the end of the cable when unused.<br />
<br />
| FAQs =<br />
<br />
A list of commonly asked questions<br />
<br />
}}</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Laser_Cutter_-_Bumblebee&diff=4987Laser Cutter - Bumblebee2013-04-15T13:36:03Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>There are two of these. They have 3'x4' beds and 150 watt tubes. This one is named Bumblebee. It is identical to [[Laser Engraver - Wolverine|Wolverine]], except that whereas Bumblebee is yellow and black, Wolverine is yellow and very dark navy blue.<br />
<br />
{{Equipment <br />
<br />
| Name = Bumblebee<br />
<br />
| Owner = Group-owned, purchased with funds collected from far and wide.<br />
<br />
| StorageLocation = West wall, you can't miss it.<br />
<br />
| MakeModel = Jinan G. Weike / WKLaser LC1280<br />
<br />
| Documentation = <br />
The setup manual, [[File:OPERATIONAL_MANUAL_OF_MACHINE_xin_USB.pdf]] is worth reading, if only for a laugh.<br />
Inside the cutter, a [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html Leetro MPC6515 control board] coordinates the motors and laser firing. Its [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/MPC6515%20%20Manual.pdf documentation] is freely downloadable.<br />
So much grief has arisen from the awful state of the documentation and software, that an entire [http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/phpBB3/index.php Chinese laser support forum] has arisen for the hapless owners of these machines help each other.<br />
<br />
<br />
There is also [[Laser Cutting for Dummies]] on our wiki.<br />
<br />
| LooksLike = <br />
[[File:Laser_cutter_110212.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]<br />
<br />
| Rules =<br />
<br />
Operation of the laser cutter must be done under the supervision of one of the trained operators. <br />
<br />
i3Detroit asks that users donate $10 per hour that the beam is active. This is to replace consumables, especially the expensive bulb. There is a wooden donation box. <br />
<br />
Do not cut or etch any plastics or other materials that contain chlorine or vinyl. A trace amount of chlorine, such as found in the glue in thin plywood or the resin of medium density fiberboard, is acceptable. Particle board has too much glue. You are responsible to know whether there is chlorine in your material before you try to cut it.<br />
<br />
If you cut plexiglass, please be sure that it is acrylic and not polycarbonate. Look along the cut edge of the material, from the side. Polycarbonate is dark on this area; acrylic is light. Polycarbonate is one of the most dangerous materials you could try to laser. It instantly starts producing yellow, acrid, toxic fumes which will corrode your lungs, and the mechanisms and lens of the laser. When the lens clouds up with these fumes, it may reflect the laser back into the machine, which may melt the head and set the machine on fire. You may not be able to reach the fire extinguisher due to what is in your lungs. Both these outcomes will upset the community. <br />
<br />
*[http://www.buildlog.net/blog/2010/07/laser-cut-vinyl-record-bad-idea/ Cutting vinyl:&nbsp;bad idea!] <br />
*[http://www.cnczone.com/forums/laser_engraving_cutting_machines/56833-co2_laser_pvc_cutting.html Cutting PVC, Lexan, polycarbonates:&nbsp;bad idea!]<br />
<br />
===Materials List===<br />
*Cut or etch: Acrylic, Delrin, Leather, Matte Board Chip Board (AKA architect modeling board), Melamine, Model Foam, Rubber, Wood (natural or veneer) <br />
*Etches but does not successfully cut: Glass, Coated Metals, Painted Metals, Ceramic, Tile, Marble<br />
*Cuts but does not take etching very well: Cloth, Paper, Mylar <br />
*Banned: Human flesh (yes, this has come up), Polycarbonate (Lexan etc.), PVC, Particle Board, any plastic if you don't know for sure it is Delrin or Acrylic <br />
<br />
| Instructions =<br />
<br />
Get material that will fit on the bed of the laser cutter, which is 3'x4': 4 feet wide from left to right, and 3 feet long from the front to the back. Your piece must be able to fit on the bed itself, because the bed will lower to put the surface of your material in focus. However, in case anyone needs to know the whole interior of the bay for some reason: there is 51 inches of clearance between the two rails the gantry runs on (the same width as the machine's bay door). 51 inches is also the measurement from the front lip to the back wall of the machine, but the door itself takes up 3/4 of an inch of that. <br />
<br />
You will need access to vector graphics software to design your parts. So far, DXF files seem to work the least-bad of the various vector filetypes, so use them. LaserCut is good for putting finished art into the laser, but barely adequate for designing art.<br />
<br />
Materials which can be cut, can normally be cut up to about 3/16 of an inch. Some materials can be cut thicker with multiple passes. The thickest cut so far was of 1" thick acrylic. However, that required that it be cut from the opposite side, while flipped over and perfectly registered.<br />
<br />
When cutting parts on the laser, you will use the software to set the cutting speed and power. If we have cut the material you are using before, you can refer to the power and speed recommendations in this list. Otherwise - experiment! Bring some scrap material to do test cuts on until you find a cut you are satisfied with. After that, record your power and speed settings in the list:<br> <br />
<br />
Test edit...will remove in a moment.<br />
<br />
===Power and Speed Settings===<br />
None yet<br />
<br />
In general: <br />
<br />
*Lower speeds allow for lower cutting power, which saves life on the laser tube. <br />
*Lower speeds cut a wider "kerf" (thickness of cut) through the material. <br />
*At higher speeds the cut is faster but requires higher power, which uses up the laser tube faster. <br />
*High power on wood and paper may cause some discoloration near the cuts (browning color from burned material).<br />
<br />
Time-of-cut checklist:<br />
# Place material (square to edge of honeycomb).<br />
# Cover inactive honeycomb area except an "intake" in front of the material. This directs smoke away from the gantry. <br />
# Turn on POWER STRIP on floor behind cutter. This should bring up the chiller and air-assist pump.<br />
# Gently pinch rubber hose from laser to chiller, to trigger chiller alarm, verifying that it's awake.<br />
# Turn keyswitch to on, and wait for boot and home to complete.<br />
# With the D-pad, jog head over to start of cut.<br />
# Press "Z" to enter the mode to raise or lower the bed. <br />
# Keep one hand over emergency-stop. Press "Datum" to auto-focus. <br />
# Press "Z" again to exit Z mode.<br />
# Wave hand under head and verify that air-assist is blowing.<br />
# Download design from LaserCut software.<br />
# Keep one hand over emergency-stop while using the "Test" button to check boundaries.<br />
# Turn on the exhaust fan (black switchbox on wall).<br />
# Lift the fire extinguisher and set it back down. This verifies that your muscle-memory knows where it is.<br />
# Press "Start".<br />
# DO NOT WALK AWAY. See http://www.thinkhaus.org/2011/04/03/lazzoring-is-serious-business/ for why.<br />
# When cutter finishes, observe elapsed time on LCD and put money into box.<br />
<br />
| OtherReferences =<br />
<br />
http://boxmaker.rahulbotics.com/ makes wonderful box patterns that you can put into the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
| MaintenanceInfo =<br />
<br />
How To Calibrate The Auto-Focus<br />
<br />
From time to time the auto-focus gets out of alignment for various reasons gradual or sudden. The depth-finding plunger is at the wrong height. One of two things have usually happened. A. The lens cylinder has telescoped in itself, because the thumb screw that forms its lip was loosened, so calibration is done by pushing it back in place and re-tightening it; or, B. the depth-finding plunger is at the wrong height on the lens cylinder.<br />
<br />
Regardless of which of those parts you are adjusting, use the huge acrylic brick which is on the shelves to measure your success and determine whether to go up or down. Put the block under the laser, do an auto-focus, and mash the "Laser" button for several seconds. The resulting hole will get thinner as it goes down, and then thicken out. This matches the shape of the beam. When the narrowest point of the hole (where the beam is most concentrated) is as close to the surface of the acrylic block as possible, this means the auto-focus plunger is at the correct height.<br />
<br />
If you are not telescoping the actual lens cylinder itself, you will adjust the bracket that connects the auto-focus plunger to the lens cylinder. The bracket tightens on both ends, where it grips both those things. Ideally you would move the bracket where it grips the lens cylinder, not where it grips the plunger. But at the moment (April 2013), the clear plastic screws that tighten the bracket on the lens cylinder have their heads broken off from use. Roger is finding replacements for them. In the meantime, use the hex wrench in the white plastic tub to loosen the screw in the bracket which holds in the plunger.<br />
<br />
Gently twist the plunger and pull up or down to adjust its elevation within the bracket. This twist will keep it from jumping up or down farther than you intend to. You'll probably want to just barely nudge it up or down. Then tighten the bracket and burn another focus hole. Repeat until the narrowest part of the hole is at the surface of the block.<br />
<br />
| ToDos = <br />
<br />
;New cylinders to hold different lenses, <br />
:...to make it easy and safe to change them without smudging or damage. Sector67 has indicated they may make some of these. (The existing cylinder has too narrow an opening for the lens that gives a long focal length. Its beam is so wide that it hits the lip and heats up the cylinder.)<br />
;Payment-measuring timer.<br />
:One way to do this would be to measure current to the machine and time how long it runs at laser-firing power. It would be good to put a button on the timer that would re-set it to zero.<br />
<br />
===Done===<br />
<br />
;Payment box.<br />
:Greg Smith made it.<br />
;Laptop desk.<br />
:Standing desk built by [[user:Dustinbikes|Dustin White]] & Ted Hansen.<br />
;Aperture in the chassis, through which to thread the blue USB cable with a grommet.<br />
:Instead, we discovered an exit under the machine and threaded it through that. [[user:Mattarnold|Matt Arnold]] used sugru on the side of the standing desk for a place to attach the end of the cable when unused.<br />
<br />
| FAQs =<br />
<br />
A list of commonly asked questions<br />
<br />
}}</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Logos_and_Publicity_Resources&diff=4978Logos and Publicity Resources2013-04-10T18:32:49Z<p>Sputnik: /* i3Detroit Business Cards */</p>
<hr />
<div>== i3Detroit Logo Images<br> ==<br />
<br />
i3Detroit logo in a variety of source and output formats. &nbsp;All images are at high resolution; scale and compress them as you need, naturally. <br />
<br />
<br> <br />
<br />
[http://i3detroit.com/wi/index.php?title=File:Logo.eps EPS Format] <br />
<br />
[http://i3detroit.com/wi/index.php?title=File:Logo.svg SVG&nbsp;Format] <br />
<br />
[http://i3detroit.com/wi/index.php?title=File:Logo_large_png24.png Large PNG-24] <br />
<br />
[http://i3detroit.com/wi/index.php?title=File:Logo_large_png8.png Large PNG-8] <br />
<br />
[http://i3detroit.com/wi/index.php?title=File:Logo_large.jpg Large&nbsp;JPG]<br />
<br />
== i3Detroit Letterhead ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
i3 Detroit's Official Letterhead http://i3detroit.com/wi/images/0/0f/I3_Detroit_-_Official_Letterhead.docx <br />
<br />
Edit [http://i3detroit.com/wi/index.php?title=File:I3_Detroit_-_Official_Letterhead.docx]<br />
<br />
<br />
== i3Detroit Brochure<br/> ==<br />
<br />
== i3Detroit Flyers<br/> ==<br />
<br />
[http://i3detroit.com/wi/index.php?title=File:Flyer_v4.png General Flyer]<br />
<br />
== i3Detroit Sticker<br/> ==<br />
<br />
== i3Detroit Business Cards<br/> ==<br />
<br />
[http://i3detroit.com/wi/images/8/88/I3_Logo_with_QR_Code.png i3 Logo with QR Code] - This image can be placed on the back of a business card to allow the holder to quickly go to i3 Detroit's website.<br />
<br />
== i3Detroit Buttons<br/> ==<br />
[[Category:Organization Information]][[Category:Promotion and Fundraising]]</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Communication&diff=4870Communication2013-03-30T13:28:23Z<p>Sputnik: /* The Blog */</p>
<hr />
<div>i3 Detroit's members have lots of ways to communicate with each other and with the public. This page attempts to catalog them.<br />
<br />
= The Blog =<br />
<br />
The front page of www.i3detroit.com runs on Wordpress, and features articles written by members. ANY MEMBER can post! Suggested topics include:<br />
* Upcoming events<br />
* Event recaps<br />
* Project kickoffs / work-days<br />
* Project write-ups<br />
* Project featured elsewhere so check it out<br />
* Opinion/editorial<br />
<br />
To get a Wordpress account created, post on the members' mailing list and ask for it. Wordpress lets you pick your own public-facing name which will appear at the top of all the posts you write, so specify this in the request, otherwise the person creating the account will make one up for you.<br />
<br />
= The Members' Mailing List =<br />
<br />
Is accessible at https://groups.google.com/group/i3Detroit/ or by email subscription. Only members are allowed to be on this one. It's where the majority of member communication happens, so sometimes it's quite chatty, and lots of folks use filters and folders to contain the firehose. If you're new to such things, please read and absorb [[Mailing_List_Etiquette]].<br />
<br />
= The Announce List =<br />
<br />
Meant to be the moderated important-stuff-only version of the above, https://groups.google.com/group/i3detroit-announce gets very little traffic, not because there aren't important things being said, but because anyone in a position to see them has already seen them and doesn't realize that folks who subscribe only to -announce haven't seen them. A way around this would be nice, so if you think of one, please mention it! <br />
<br />
In the meantime, if you see something important and want all members to be aware of it, forward it to i3detroit-announce@googlegroups.com and it'll sit in the mod queue for a short while until someone approves it.<br />
<br />
= The Public List =<br />
<br />
Lives at http://groups.google.com/group/i3detroit-public and if you're reading this, you should be on it! Members and non-members alike are welcome, and the group serves as a general hangout for the tech community that has coalesced around i3. <br />
<br />
One type of traffic that ends up on -public is job postings, and these deserve special mention. Consensus is:<br />
* Local jobs only, no relocation.<br />
* Personal connections only, no recruiters.<br />
* If you GET a job through the above, please brag about it!<br />
<br />
= The Twitterbot =<br />
<br />
Since we don't have any paid staff, and thus don't have regular "open" hours, we needed a way to tell the world when it was OK to visit. That mechanism is the Twitterbot. Physically, it's a switch right by the door, which any member can throw when they enter the space, if they feel like inviting guests. (It's expected that they'll turn it off again when this is no longer the case.) <br />
<br />
When the switch is thrown, two things happen:<br />
* The top-right box on the website indicates "The space is OPEN FOR GUESTS" instead of "Closed, come back later".<br />
* A tweet goes out on @i3detroit saying something to the above effect, possibly including a photo taken at the moment the switch was thrown.<br />
<br />
Operation detailed at [[Twitterbot]].<br />
<br />
= Other Twitter =<br />
<br />
Occasionally, humans monitor and respond to the @i3detroit account too. Don't count on it.<br />
<br />
= Facebook =<br />
<br />
Apparently we have some sort of Facebook presence. As this author values his privacy and knows nothing of it, someone else will have to edit this section with the details.<br />
<br />
= Google Calendar =<br />
<br />
Find a way to add this to your personal calendaring system, it's important:<br />
https://www.google.com/calendar/render?cid=i3detroit@gmail.com&pli=1<br />
<br />
As with everything, every member is allowed to post stuff here, but setting up the credentials is manual so it's done on demand. Just ask!<br />
<br />
= The Telephone =<br />
<br />
Goodness! An old-fashioned telephone? <br />
<br />
Yes! Well, not exactly, there's VOIP 'twixt the two ends. But still, it's accessible on the PSTN, so it counts. It's at +1-248-556-9995 and rings inside the space. IF YOU HEAR A PHONE RINGING IN THE SPACE, PLEASE ANSWER IT. It's probably someone who saw the twitterbot change state, and wants to call-ahead before coming for a visit. Sometimes it's a news reporter or something. Do what you see fit, but if you feel the call needs followup, jot down the details and post to the members' list, above.<br />
<br />
= The Forums = <br />
<br />
Are at http://i3detroit.com/forums/ and this section needs expansion. You can log in with your Google credentials used for the Groups, so that's cool.<br />
<br />
= IRC = <br />
<br />
Like most open-source projects, we're on Freenode. Channel is #i3detroit. The easiest way to join is by clicking the "Web chat" link on the front page of i3detroit.com, which will open a browser-based chat client and plunge you right in. Say hi, then be patient because not all of us are at our keyboards all the time! "Drive-by greeting" is considered poor IRC etiquette, so stick around a few minutes! If you can install and run a real client, or use a shell session for persistence, that's better.<br />
<br />
= EventBrite =<br />
<br />
Eventbrite is just for things with a limited number of seats where people need to reserve seats ahead of time. Also it can charge admission but that's horrible and we try to avoid using it that way. <br />
<br />
= The Wiki =<br />
<br />
Yeah, the one you're reading right now. Account creation is manual, but not actually restricted to members-only, because we've had a few outsiders interested in contributing. See [[HOWTO_Get_a_Wiki_Account]]. As with all wikis, [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Be_bold Be Bold]!<br />
<br />
= Contact@i3detroit Email =<br />
<br />
This goes to a handful of Board members, and might be useful if -public isn't appropriate but you don't know who to talk to. Really it's a PITA so consider it a last resort.<br />
<br />
[[Category:HOWTO]][[Category:Internal HOWTO]][[Category:Organization Information]][[Category:Reference Data]]</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=ShoppingList&diff=4869ShoppingList2013-03-30T13:25:04Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
See also, the electronics-specific list on [[Electronics_Room| the Electronics Room page]].<br />
<br />
{| cellspacing="1" cellpadding="1" border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! Item<br />
! Needed for<br />
! Added by <br />
! Added date<br />
! Bought by<br />
! notes<br />
|-<br />
| Whiteboard cleaner<br />
| general use<br />
| Nate B<br />
| 2012/01/29<br />
|darvon<br />
| arrives 10/27<br />
|-<br />
| Centerpull towels<br />
| bathrooms<br />
| Nate B<br />
| 2012/01/29<br />
| <br />
| Often, 4 rolls plus a dispenser is the same price as 6 rolls. Get that...<br />
|-<br />
|hasps for lockboxes<br />
| ?<br />
| By Greg<br />
|<br />
| Using cyl lock <br />
| will install in the WS box 10/12/12<br />
|-<br />
|3 locks<br />
| ?<br />
| By Greg<br />
|<br />
| Using Cyl locks<br />
| ?<br />
|}<br />
[[Category:Organization Information]]</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=ShoppingList&diff=4868ShoppingList2013-03-30T13:22:50Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
See also, the electronics-specific list on [[Electronics_Room| the Electronics Room page]].<br />
<br />
{| cellspacing="1" cellpadding="1" border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! Item<br />
! Needed for<br />
! Added by <br />
! Added date<br />
! Bought by<br />
! notes<br />
|-<br />
| Whiteboard cleaner<br />
| general use<br />
| Nate B<br />
| 2012/01/29<br />
|darvon<br />
| arrives 10/27<br />
|-<br />
| Centerpull towels<br />
| bathrooms<br />
| Nate B<br />
| 2012/01/29<br />
| <br />
| Often, 4 rolls plus a dispenser is the same price as 6 rolls. Get that...<br />
|-<br />
|hasps for lockboxes<br />
| ?<br />
|<br />
| By Greg<br />
| Using cyl lock <br />
| will install in the WS box 10/12/12<br />
|-<br />
|3 locks<br />
| ?<br />
| <br />
| By Greg<br />
| Using Cyl locks<br />
| ?<br />
|}<br />
[[Category:Organization Information]]</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Skynet&diff=4867Skynet2013-03-29T18:10:11Z<p>Sputnik: </p>
<hr />
<div>Skynet is the name of i3detroit's building automation system.<br />
<br />
'''NO LONGER SEEMS TO RESPOND'''<br />
<br />
If you are on the i3detroit LAN, you can access it here:<br />
: http://skynet.i3detroit.local:8080<br />
<br />
There is no remote access, yet.<br />
<br />
== Public Interfaces ==<br />
<br />
See the state of the welcome switch and control the spinning disco light.<br />
: http://skynet.i3detroit.local:8080/public_view.htm?viewId=4<br />
<br />
== Architecture ==<br />
<br />
The software is called Mango, an open-source [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SCADA SCADA] system.<br />
: http://mango.serotoninsoftware.com/<br />
<br />
[[Category:Facility Information]][[Category:Networking]]</div>Sputnikhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=SIG_Newbies&diff=4822SIG Newbies2013-03-20T01:27:43Z<p>Sputnik: /* NEWBIE LIST */</p>
<hr />
<div>== SIG Newbies ==<br />
<br />
This is a rolling list of the Freshmen of i3 (members of less than 12 months). <br />
<br />
The very FIRST step as a SIG Newbie is to edit this Wiki and add your name.<br />
<br />
To ask a member, send her or him an email. To find email addresses of your fellow members, use the [[CRM]] list.<br />
<br />
If you can't get into the CRM, post on the Google Group PRIVATE Members only discussion group - i3 Detroit.<br />
<br />
If you can't get into Google Group Private Members group, post on the public Google Group for i3 - i3 Detroit Public. Someone will get you going.<br />
<br />
<br />
Make sure you can:<br />
<br />
1) Post in the private Google Group.<br />
2) Edit this wiki.<br />
3) Log into the CRM.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Also, take a look at the New Member [[New Member Orientation#FAQ|FAQ]]. <br />
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== NEWBIE LIST ==<br />
<br />
W. Scott Richardson (ZurielSeven) - joined August, 2012.<br />
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Terry W. - joined Nov, 2012.<br />
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Marie E. - joined Feb, 2012.<br />
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Greg Smith - Joined July 2012<br />
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Jeff Bannow - Joined February 2013<br />
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Paul F. - joined Feb 2013<br />
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Mary Winkler - Joined March 2013<br />
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Dan Eklund aka Sputnik - March 2013<br />
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== List of Skills ==<br />
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Put the skills you have, either from i3 training or Real Life, with your name so others can contact you for help. In i3 language an "Apprentice" can use a specialized piece of equipment without supervision and can teach another to achieve Apprentice/Teacher rank.<br />
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Terry W - Teacher on [[Laser Cutter]] and [[Kiln]]<br />
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== STUPID QUESTION LIST ==<br />
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Put your Stupid Question Here and other SIG Newbies will answer it. If you ask a REALLY USEFUL stupid question, let's add it to the FAQ.<br />
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'''Q: Are you as amazed at the amount of equipment here as I am? How do we do it from the $ amount of the dues? '''<br />
.<br />
'''Q: Who do I have to talk to about storage space? All the spots that say vacant are scary high or not actually vacant.'''<br />
A: Any one not labeled is available. If it is not vacant, remove gear, place in graveyard with a date label on it, post in Google group that it is in graveyard and someone needs to claim it. Put sign on your new space. Yes they are scary high. We have a scissors jack which will make it easy to get to, but the Brewery is using it. You raise an interesting point. I will bring it up with group.<br />
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From Nate<br />
<br />
On Mar 10, 6:26 pm, "sp...@thewynngroup.net" <sp...@thewynngroup.net><br />
wrote:<br />
> When I first joined up, I was told don't use the ladder for access to high<br />
> plots.<br />
<br />
Well, that's up to you and your sense of balance, but I don't think<br />
it's particularly safe.<br />
<br />
> Of course, about a week later the scissors jack (what is it's name again?)<br />
> went to live in the brewery.<br />
<br />
Try the door next door (the one by the water heater). If the Genie is<br />
over there, the door's not supposed to be locked. Which is to say, if<br />
they want to secure their stuff, they have to drive the Genie back<br />
first.<br />
<br />
> So....a SIG Newbie member asks about scary high storage spaces (they are<br />
> called "plots" right?), which are the only ones avail.<br />
> Do we haul heavy stuff from the top with a ladder? Or what should I tell<br />
> her?<br />
<br />
Point out the availability of other places: For small stuff, there are<br />
lockers under the library. For bulky items, there are shelves over the<br />
vinyl area, which might be lower than the way-high wood shelves and<br />
thus perhaps safer to access with a ladder. For the time being, until<br />
the Genie's availability is rectified, a large-project area with a<br />
parking permit might be a fine temporary solution.<br />
<br />
-Nate B-</div>Sputnik