https://www.i3detroit.org/wi/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Gsmith&feedformat=atomi3Detroit - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T08:54:20ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.31.1https://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=User:Gsmith&diff=22174User:Gsmith2019-06-04T17:03:48Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Member Information<br />
|Image=GSmith.jpg<br />
|Real Name = Greg Smith<br />
| ID = 214<br />
|E-mail = gregssmith@aol.com<br />
|Phone =+1 248-649-3565, +1 248-202-9962<br />
|Other Links = <br />
}}<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
*[[Small Robot]]<br />
* Children's Hospital Laser cut outs<br />
* Marble Machine<br />
* Fix up the woodshop<br />
* Marquetry with the Laser<br />
<br />
== Skills == <br />
*Woodworking<br />
*Woodturning, Power Carving, Metal leaf, Woodburning<br />
*Power Systems<br />
*Plant Engineering<br />
*Basic Electronics<br />
*Project Planning<br />
*Business and Organizational Stuff<br />
*MS Word, Excel, PowerPoint, Filemaker, Final Cut<br />
*Video Editing<br />
*Basic Mig Welding<br />
*Basic Blacksmithing<br />
<br />
== What I want to learn/work on with you ==<br />
*How to use Maker Bot<br />
*Using Arduino<br />
*Using Raspberry Pi<br />
*Robotics<br />
*Making Popjet Fountain<br />
<br />
== Other Activities/Interests ==<br />
*Camera<br />
*Exercise<br />
*Hiking Camping<br />
*Scouting<br />
<br />
[[Category:Members|GSmith]]</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Category:Wood_Shop&diff=22173Category:Wood Shop2019-06-04T17:00:50Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Zone<br />
|Image=Woodworkingarea.jpg<br />
|Zone Name=Wood Shop<br />
|Zone Coordinator=x<br />
|Zone E-mail=x<br />
|Zone Color=Green<br />
|Zone Slack=wood-shop<br />
}}<br />
== Shop Safety! ==<br />
<br />
*Keep shop area clear of debris, cutoff pieces and other hazards. <br />
*Wear Eye and Hearing protection at all time using woodworking power tools. <br />
*Wear appropriate clothing. Tie long hair back, remove dangling jewelery, remove work gloves.<br />
*Take your time. Accidents happen because someone is in too big of a hurry. <br />
*Think about what you are doing. If something seems unsafe, it probably is.<br />
== Training vs Authorization==<br />
* When '''Authorized''' to use tools, it means you have been authorized by a trainer to use the tools, this assumes you are a skilled woodworker and have woodworking know-how to use the tool. Authorization refers to the unique things that are required of a user at i3, one knows how to use the tool, maintain it, where parts and tools unique to the tool are kept, and the proper condition to leave it in.<br />
<br />
== Dust Control ==<br />
<br />
*Do not vacuum any metal objects with Large dust-collector machine, it must be used only for sawdust.<br />
<br />
== Table of Equipment==<br />
{| cellspacing="1" cellpadding="1" border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Equipment <br />
! Authorization<br />
! Owner(s)<br />
! Status<br />
|-<br />
{{#ask: <br />
[[EquipName::+]] [[EquipZone::{{PAGENAME}}]] [[EquipStatus::Running||Usable but repair needed||Down]] <br />
| mainlabel=EquipName<br />
| headers = plain<br />
| ?EquipTrainingRequired=Authorization Required<br />
| ?EquipOwner=Owner(s)<br />
| ?EquipStatus=Status<br />
| format=template<br />
| template=Zone Equipment Table Row<br />
| sort=EquipStatus,EquipName<br />
| order=desc,asc<br />
}}<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Raw Material Storage==<br />
<br />
===Material Storage Policy===<br />
<br />
Sheet Goods Rack: (Wood or plastic) (No Glass or sheetmetal) 1/4 sheet (8 sq. ft.) or larger sheet goods, or boards narrower than 12 in. but longer than 4 ft. <br />
A-frame Rack Exterior: Less than 1/4 sheet (8 sq. ft.) but at least 24 in. by 12 in. sheet goods, or boards narrower than 12 in. and between 2 ft. and 4 ft. long. <br />
A-frame Rack Interior: Boards narrower than 12 in. and more than 4 ft. long, and not sturdy enough to stand up in a vertical storage rack.<br />
Shelf under the miter saw: a limited quantity of smaller pieces for open-use will be kept here.<br />
<br />
===Material Owned by Individual Members===<br />
<br />
Raw Material<br />
Space permitting, storage in the Sheet Goods Rack and A-frame Rack is available for the sizes and material described above. Your raw material must be marked with Name, Phone, Email, and Date, or Parking Permit, or it will be considered open-use and available for others to use.<br />
Your raw material should not be stored for longer than 90 days. After 90 days, even fully labeled material becomes open-use. We request that WS Parking Permits not extend for more than 90 days.<br />
<br />
In-Process Projects:<br />
A shelving unit marked for Member Projects is available in the wood shop for small in-process storage while clamping, gluing, finishing, etc.. Use of this area requires a Parking Permit and should not exceed 30 days. Large in-process projects also require a Parking Permit and should be on a cart or some movable rack so that others may move it out of the way.<br />
<br />
===I3-Owned Material Storage===<br />
Any material marked with a date and “i3” or “WS” is reserved until that date for an internal i3 project and should not be used without a Coordinator's permission. After that date, it is available for open-use.<br />
<br />
===Open-Use Material Storage===<br />
Materials stored in the “over the window rack”, the Sheet Goods Rack, or the rolling A-frame Rack, without a proper label as described above, are available for open-use by anyone working in the space.<br />
<br />
Open-Use Compensation:<br />
The intent of open-use material, whether donated or purchased with Wood Shop funds, is to provide a convenient source for small amounts of common materials. We do not have space or funds to provide a complete material supply for projects.<br />
If you use a piece of open-use material longer than 4 feet or larger than a quarter sheet, please deposit an appropriate amount of compensation into the Wood Shop Donation Box. <br />
<br />
Material Donation:<br />
Members wanting to donate a manageable quantity of leftover project material may leave it in the appropriate location, space permitting, where it will be available for open-use. The Coordinators will periodically cull the stored open-use material to remove duplicates and seldom-used items.<br />
<br />
== Consumables ==<br />
<br />
*[[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
<br />
== Power Tool Wish List==<br />
<br />
* i3 ownership 15 inch Floor mount Drill Press<br />
<br />
== Hand Tool Wish List==<br />
* Square<br />
* more good clamps (not harbor freight)<br />
<br />
==Wood Shop Suggestions==<br />
===Add tools, Policies, or anything here===<br />
<br />
== Wood Shop Training ==<br />
* [[Wood Shop Training]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Zones]]</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=SawStop_Table_Saw&diff=20527SawStop Table Saw2019-02-04T20:25:51Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=SawStop Table Saw<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=sawstoptablesaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=SawStop PCS31230-TPG236 10" Professional Cabinet Saw<br />
|PartNumber=S/N P131230787 Service Date 6-12-2013<br />
|Date=6/12/13<br />
|StorageLocation=This table saw is located in the Wood Shop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=2899.00<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:sawstop_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3mzhvMgrLE High speed video demonstration of SawStop brake in action]<br />
|Intro=For sawing wood.<br />
* Authorization Required for member or guest to Use this Tool Contact a Coordinator or trainer<br />
|Rules=*'''[[Wait until the blade stops moving before making adjustments or you will trip the brake]]'''<br />
*Training for Authorization is Required and is listed here: [[Wood Shop Training]]<br />
<br />
* Ripping kiln dried wood, cross cutting panels.<br />
*'''Do not cut metals, conductive materials, anything with carbon such as laser cut or engraved traces, black plastic or formica or melamine, green wood, wet wood. If in doubt contact a Woodshop Coordinator.'''<br />
*In the event of a flesh contact safety trip i3 will cover the brake cartridge cost, the member will pay for a new Saw Blade $100 range<br />
* Other trips, from unauthorized use or material, the member or guest replaces the brake and the blade Approx. $190<br />
*Either the saw safety guard or riving knife must always be used. Never make a cut with out this protection.<br />
*If using the riving knife, please remove it when you are done and reinstall the full blade guard.<br />
*After use if using an alternative blade (plywood) replace it with the Combination blade.<br />
*After use return the blade to its normal position "vertical" <br />
*The saw must be off and unplugged when changing the blade guard or riving knife and when making any internal adjustments<br />
*Do not set water or drink containers on the cast iron table<br />
*Please use the dust collector when sawing<br />
|Instructions=* Check the condition and location of the blade to assure it is correct for your cut, make sure the blade is clear.<br />
*To start the saw, first make sure the Start/Stop paddle is in the “OFF” position (i.e., pushed in) and then turn the main power switch to the “ON” position by flipping the toggle upward.<br />
*The saw control switch ( will start with green and blinking red) after which it will show a steady green light and red off indicating it is ok to start the motor.<br />
*To start the motor pull the start/stop paddle out. To stop the motor push the start/stop paddle in. The paddle is designed so that it can be pushed in by the operator's leg or knee in an emergency.<br />
*It is not necessary to turn off the main power switch after pushing in the Start/Stop paddle to turn off the motor. If you plan to make several cuts with the saw, you can leave the main power switch in the ON position between cuts to eliminate the delay due to the initialization routine. Once you have finished using the saw, turn the main power switch to OFF to reduce the likelihood of inadvertent start-up.<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
* Introduction to SAWSTOP, assumes knowledge of table saw general use. = [[media:SawStop_Introduction.pdf]]<br />
*Table saw basics class outline. [[media:Table_Saw_Basics.pdf ]]<br />
<br />
==Sawing off Book Bindings==<br />
<br />
*NEVER TRY SAWING OFF A BOOK BINDING THAT CONTAINS ANY TYPE OF METAL (e.g. staples), ALWAYS CAREFULLY INSPECT FIRST!<br />
*Although it can be done, it is not recommended. Book bindings often contain glue can heat up and mix with the shredded paper. This mix sticks to the other parts of the machine. Later on, other particles can attach and cause a malfunction.<br />
*After sawing, the mix of glue/paper must be carefully removed from all parts of the machine using a tool that won’t scratch any part of the machine, such as a thin piece of wood along with a soft brush. Make sure that both the internal and external parts of the machine where the saw dust may have gone are inspected and cleaned as needed.<br />
*When in doubt, ask the zone warden!<br />
<br />
== In Event of Emergency or Saw Safety Trip ==<br />
*Call 911 if you are hurt and do not move your work, we need to document any failure or accident, take pictures, call one of the wardens.<br />
* An accident report must be filled out.<br />
'''Do not try and repair or replace parts with-out Coordinator approval.'''<br />
== Saw Safety Trip Information ==<br />
*In general, the safety system acts in the following way:<br />
A small radio-frequency signal is coupled onto the blade by the brake cartridge via a signal line leading to the arbor. While the saw is running, the brake cartridge is also constantly monitoring this signal via a signal return line. If the signal level on the blade drops suddenly, the cartridge detects that drop, and activates the brake mechanism.<br />
*There are two ways to cause a signal drop:<br />
# Load the signal down by grounding it or absorbing it into a large conductive object, or<br />
# Interrupt the signal from the signal or return lines (this only happens if a line breaks or a connection comes loose.)<br />
1. above is the usual cause by which activations occur. The human body, once the outer skin layers are penetrated, is very conductive and is quite capable of loading down the signal on the saw blade. A person does not need to be grounded to load down the signal.<br />
*'''Other sources of signal loss are due to blade contact with:'''<br />
'''BODIES OF METAL:<br />
# Metal sheeting such as Aluminum or copper<br />
# Grounded metal (i.e. the blade guard splitter, the riving knife, a metal jig, or a metal tape measure in contact with the table top.)<br />
# Relatively large masses of ungrounded metal, such as a tape measure not in contact with the table or a combination square or ruler)<br />
# Foil-backed insulation<br />
# Mirror-backed plastic (usually a metallic layer deposited onto the back of the plastic)<br />
#. Metallic paint layers (e.g. gold paint on picture frames)<br />
'''Other conductive materials:'''<br />
# Conductive laminate layers (some countertops have a foil layer behind the Formica)<br />
# Black melamine board that has carbon black in the melamine layer<br />
#Carbon composite materials (helicopter blades, ski poles, fishing poles, tennis racquets)<br />
# Electronic circuit boards (because of the conductive layers)<br />
# Cell phones (you might think it’s listed here just for humor value, but a shop student actually did run his cell phone into a saw to see what would happen)<br />
#Uncured glue layers (wet glue is a good electrical simulator of a person)<br />
# Wet pressure-treated materials (the metallic salt solutions use to treat the wood are quite conductive unless very dry)<br />
# Very wet wood (though usually the saw will try to shut down rather than activating the brake)<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=* Keep table clean, clear and dry<br />
* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
*If the brake trips Both the brake cartridge and Blade MUST be changed<br />
|FAQs=;What happens if the safety brake trips?<br />
The saw comes to an abrupt stop, loud noise, and the blade lowers as part of the energy absorption mechanics.<br />
;Is the brake cartride or blade reusable?<br />
No, the brake cartridge and saw blade are rendered unusable.<br />
;How much do the brake cartridges cost?<br />
$69 <br />
;How wet is wet ?<br />
Any wood that has been left outside exposed to the elements for an extended time.<br />
Green freshly cut wood.<br />
;Will this system prevent Kickback?<br />
NO, all normal kickback precautions must be taken<br />
|ToDos=* make cutting fixtures and storage for saw things<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
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|TrainedDate=2018/08/07<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Bravin Neff<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/08/30<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mark Furland<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018-11-19<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Greg Good<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018-11-19<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Julien Cohen<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018-11-19<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Robert Burns<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018-11-19<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Aisha Blake<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018-11-19<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Rufus Thames<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018-12-20<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brian Maynard<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2019-01-02<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2013/05/28<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2013/05/28<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Thomas Tusano<br />
|CertifiedDate=2018/03/29<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Konrad Brown<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Powermatic_14_inch_Bandsaw&diff=20526Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw2019-02-04T20:23:41Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=PwrMat_Bandsaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Powermatic PWBS14<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 140420023<br />
|Date=11/14/2014<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=1199.00<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:PowerMatic_Band_Saw_Manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
* [[Media:Kregfence.pdf|Kreg precision fence manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Bandsaw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=The Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw with 1.5 hp, 230V,with 6 in Riser and Kreg precision rip fence is particularly useful for cutting irregular or curved shapes, but can make straight cuts. The minimum radius of a curve that can be cut on a particular saw is determined by the width of the band and its kerf.<br />
|Rules='''[[Band Saw Insert Training]]''' is required for all users<br />
<br />
'''Authorization Required''' for machine adjustments and blade changes<br />
*For cutting wood or plastics, no metals<br />
* Read, understand and follow the safety instructions found in the manual<br />
* Keep fingers 3 inches from the blade<br />
* Do not cut wood that is not flat on the bottom, use a jig<br />
* Never clear small pieces while the blade is running<br />
* Do not push work with your thumbs.<br />
* Keep guards in place<br />
*Do not force the tool, it will do a better job at the rates it is designed for<br />
*Wear proper apparel, do not wear loose clothing or other items that may get caught. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.<br />
*Always wear Safety glasses.<br />
|Instructions=Plan your cuts before making them<br />
*Set Upper Blade guide assembly, raise or lower to just above the material being cut<br />
* make sure the Tension Adjustment lever is in the up position<br />
*Turn on the work light<br />
*Feed material only into the blade DO NOT BACK UP MATERIAL with the machine running or the blade will come loose from the guides. stop it first.<br />
*Feed work gently into the blade, do not force the work or bend the blade<br />
*In most situations a cutting line should be followed<br />
*Both hands should be used to feed the wood, and placed on opposite sides of the blade<br />
*A jig or clamp should be used to hold odd shaped or round pieces<br />
* Make through cuts or release cuts, if needed predrill holes so that waste pieces can be removed<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=THE SAW:<br />
*Clean the tires when changing blades, use a scraper to clean gunk off the tire<br />
*Clean the table surface with table cleaning abrasive then coat with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"<br />
*Blow out the blade guide assemblies to clean out dust and debris.<br />
**CLEANING THE BLADE<br />
*De-tension the blade and remove from the saw<br />
*Coil the blade so it fits in the cleaning tub (located on top of wood shop cabinet)<br />
*Mix a solution of "Simple Green" or other degreaser about 50/50 and soak the blade in it for 45 min or until the gunk is somewhat loose<br />
*Using a BRASS brush clean the blade (not easy to do because you will probably need to uncoil the blade)<br />
*Rinse with water<br />
*Coat the blade with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"to prevent rusting.<br />
*Reinstall, re-tensio the blade align the blade on the tires and in the roller guides as one usually does when changing blades.<br />
|FAQs=*SAW MAKES UNSATISFACTORY CUTS<br />
**Dull Blade<br />
**Blade mounted Wrong<br />
**Gum or Pitch on blade<br />
**Incorrect blade for cut<br />
**Tension not set properly<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Kevin Flory<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Gardeski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Andy Hayden<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/03/31<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Adam Scholl<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Levi Morey<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brian McPherson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=William Cunningham<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Henry<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Leonard RH<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Charlie Rysenga<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Jewell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Cameron Geralds<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Slover<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Klein<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Terry Wynn<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/01/17<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Sean Work<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/04/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Vivian Sanders<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/04/17<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mark Furland<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2016-10-25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Aisha Blake<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018-11-19<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Rufus thames<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018-12-20<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Thomas Tusano<br />
|CertifiedDate=2018/03/29<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Powermatic_14_inch_Bandsaw&diff=20513Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw2019-01-29T19:46:18Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=PwrMat_Bandsaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Powermatic PWBS14<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 140420023<br />
|Date=11/14/2014<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Down<br />
|Value=1199.00<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:PowerMatic_Band_Saw_Manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
* [[Media:Kregfence.pdf|Kreg precision fence manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Bandsaw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=The Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw with 1.5 hp, 230V,with 6 in Riser and Kreg precision rip fence is particularly useful for cutting irregular or curved shapes, but can make straight cuts. The minimum radius of a curve that can be cut on a particular saw is determined by the width of the band and its kerf.<br />
|Rules='''[[Band Saw Insert Training]]''' is required for all users<br />
<br />
'''Authorization Required''' for machine adjustments and blade changes<br />
*For cutting wood or plastics, no metals<br />
* Read, understand and follow the safety instructions found in the manual<br />
* Keep fingers 3 inches from the blade<br />
* Do not cut wood that is not flat on the bottom, use a jig<br />
* Never clear small pieces while the blade is running<br />
* Do not push work with your thumbs.<br />
* Keep guards in place<br />
*Do not force the tool, it will do a better job at the rates it is designed for<br />
*Wear proper apparel, do not wear loose clothing or other items that may get caught. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.<br />
*Always wear Safety glasses.<br />
|Instructions=Plan your cuts before making them<br />
*Set Upper Blade guide assembly, raise or lower to just above the material being cut<br />
* make sure the Tension Adjustment lever is in the up position<br />
*Turn on the work light<br />
*Feed material only into the blade DO NOT BACK UP MATERIAL with the machine running or the blade will come loose from the guides. stop it first.<br />
*Feed work gently into the blade, do not force the work or bend the blade<br />
*In most situations a cutting line should be followed<br />
*Both hands should be used to feed the wood, and placed on opposite sides of the blade<br />
*A jig or clamp should be used to hold odd shaped or round pieces<br />
* Make through cuts or release cuts, if needed predrill holes so that waste pieces can be removed<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=THE SAW:<br />
*Clean the tires when changing blades, use a scraper to clean gunk off the tire<br />
*Clean the table surface with table cleaning abrasive then coat with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"<br />
*Blow out the blade guide assemblies to clean out dust and debris.<br />
**CLEANING THE BLADE<br />
*De-tension the blade and remove from the saw<br />
*Coil the blade so it fits in the cleaning tub (located on top of wood shop cabinet)<br />
*Mix a solution of "Simple Green" or other degreaser about 50/50 and soak the blade in it for 45 min or until the gunk is somewhat loose<br />
*Using a BRASS brush clean the blade (not easy to do because you will probably need to uncoil the blade)<br />
*Rinse with water<br />
*Coat the blade with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"to prevent rusting.<br />
*Reinstall, re-tensio the blade align the blade on the tires and in the roller guides as one usually does when changing blades.<br />
|FAQs=*SAW MAKES UNSATISFACTORY CUTS<br />
**Dull Blade<br />
**Blade mounted Wrong<br />
**Gum or Pitch on blade<br />
**Incorrect blade for cut<br />
**Tension not set properly<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Kevin Flory<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Gardeski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Andy Hayden<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/03/31<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Adam Scholl<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Levi Morey<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brian McPherson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=William Cunningham<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Henry<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Leonard RH<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Charlie Rysenga<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Jewell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Cameron Geralds<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Slover<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Klein<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Terry Wynn<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/01/17<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Sean Work<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/04/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Vivian Sanders<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/04/17<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mark Furland<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2016-10-25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Aisha Blake<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018-11-19<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Rufus thames<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018-12-20<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Thomas Tusano<br />
|CertifiedDate=2018/03/29<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Minutes:Board_Meeting_Minutes_20190122&diff=20373Minutes:Board Meeting Minutes 201901222019-01-21T03:57:33Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>=Agenda for [[Meeting Date::01-22-2019]]=<br />
'''Chair: John C (Coogle)'''<br />
; Who is going to document this meeting?<br />
== New Business ==<br />
The Board of Directors has decided to call this special meeting, and all directors have waived the requirement of 7 days notice to hold such a meeting. All members and concerned parties are explicitly invited to attend. This meeting is being called specifically to address questions and concerns about leasing suite B in our building and related things like a potential increase in member dues. A report will be sent to members before this meeting, and it will be discussed at the meeting.<br />
<br />
'''Please add specific questions and concerns you have below.''' Try to fit them in a category, but don't worry if it overlaps. We will prioritize questions which are posted in the agenda prior to the meeting. There may or may not be time for additional questions brought up at the meeting. Make sure you add your name to your question. You can easily do that by typing "<nowiki>~~~</nowiki>" to automatically add your name like this: [[User:Mkfink|Mkfink]] ([[User talk:Mkfink|talk]]).<br />
<br />
;This is an example question? [[User:Mkfink|Mkfink]] ([[User talk:Mkfink|talk]])<br />
: This is an example answer.<br />
<br />
== Lease Questions ==<br />
<br />
== Property Questions ==<br />
; What is this section even for?<br />
: Things like "I've never been inside. What is it? What kinds of amenities are there?"<br />
: Must all building projects and utilities be licensed and permitted by the City ?- Greg<br />
;who will obtain quotes for building projects?, who will oversee them? Greg<br />
<br />
== Floorplan Questions ==<br />
; What is the process that the board will use to fairly allocate floorspace? What criteria will they base their decisions on?[[User:Charlie247|Charlie247]] ([[User talk:Charlie247|talk]])<br />
<br />
; Who is leading the charge to make new zones? Potentially new zone coordinators will need to be found and nurtured? [[User:Charlie247|Charlie247]] ([[User talk:Charlie247|talk]])<br />
<br />
; Will board members be recusing themselves from decisions regarding their zones? [[User:Charlie247|Charlie247]] ([[User talk:Charlie247|talk]])<br />
<br />
; I believe a lot of zones (both existing and new) have thoughts about where they'd like to be or not be -- proximity to or distance from various parts of the building, proximity to or distance from other zones, etc -- and I don't believe anyone's made an attempt to gather that input. I'm concerned that temporary floorplans already floated without these considerations will end up becoming permanent, because that tends to happen, so my questions are three: When is the appropriate time to gather and compile these considerations? In the event that they conflict, will ZoCos be invited to weigh and arrange and optimize and agree? And, in the event that this ultimately points to a layout different from the presumptive temporary plan, how will we fix that? My position is that the time for such planning is sooner rather than later, and that involvement contributes to legitimacy and buy-in, but I can't seem to phrase that as a question. [[User:Nbezanson|Nbezanson]] ([[User talk:Nbezanson|talk]]) 12:21, 20 January 2019 (EST)<br />
<br />
;What is the general purpose of the new floor space i.e. Clean, dirty, storage, storage -member, paid, i3 storage things that are easy to move or hard or $ to move -Greg<br />
;Eliminate from the wish list for future zones things that are no practical or limited by bldg. code\es like Auto, Forge and other things that generate VOC's or flame with out environmantal studies/permission from the city -Greg<br />
== Legal Questions ==<br />
; What affect does leasing the rest of the building have on our current occupancy permit? [[User:Charlie247|Charlie247]] ([[User talk:Charlie247|talk]])<br />
<br />
== Dues Questions ==<br />
;how many scholarships are there, can or should they be eliminated or reduced<br />
;Are there other ways to raise expense $ - Greg<br />
<br />
== Paid Storage Questions ==<br />
; Shouldn't paid storage be discussed by the membership instead of the board, as all of the rules for storage are in the standing rules instead of the bylaws? [[User:Charlie247|Charlie247]] ([[User talk:Charlie247|talk]])<br />
;What are the rules regarding making it into a mini workshop and facility requirements to do so. Minimum rental duration<br />
; Non paid member storage -Greg<br />
:Lockers - Greg<br />
<br />
= Meeting Metrics =<br />
<!--Secretary: fill these in--><br />
* Time completed:<br />
* Funds appropriated:<br />
* Attendees:<br />
<br />
== Action Item Summary ==<br />
<!-- Semantic MediaWiki Query to collect all action items created with the Action Item Template --><br />
<!-- Example of Action Item Template: {{Action Item|Jamie|Make example action item}} --><br />
{{#ask: [[-Has subobject::{{FULLPAGENAME}}]] [[POC::+]]<br />
| ?Task = Action Item<br />
| ?POC = POC<br />
| default = No action items.<br />
| mainlabel = -<br />
| headers = plain<br />
| link = none<br />
}}<br />
<br />
== Proposal Summary ==<br />
<!-- Semantic MediaWiki Query to collect all proposals created with the Proposal Template --><br />
<!-- Example of Proposal Template: {{Proposal|Jamie|Matt|Change the rules to do something new|5|2|PASS}} --><br />
{{#ask: [[-Has subobject::{{FULLPAGENAME}}]] [[Mover::+]] <br />
| ?Description=Proposal<br />
| ?Mover=Moved By<br />
| ?Second=Seconded By<br />
| ?Aye=Aye<br />
| ?Nay=Nay<br />
| ?Result=Result<br />
| default = No proposals. <br />
| mainlabel = -<br />
| headers = plain<br />
| link = none<br />
}}<br />
<br />
== Attendance ==<br />
# Chair<br />
# Secretary<br />
<br />
[[Category:Meeting Minutes]]</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Wood_Shop_Consumables&diff=20356Wood Shop Consumables2019-01-19T16:50:06Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Welcome to the Wood Shop Consumables List! ==<br />
* The purpose of this list is to provide a central place for information about wood shop consumables.<br />
* The sign columns are for signs to hang on or near equipment to inform/remind members of the approximate cost of consumables. These signs are meant to help users decide how much they will contribute to the consumables money box when working in the wood shop. <br />
* [[Media:signforwoodshopconsumable.doc|Sign example in doc format]]<br />
* The columns for purchase information are intended to be more specific and detailed, to help members purchase consumables.<br />
<br />
{| cellspacing="1" cellpadding="1" border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! Equipment name/wikilink <br />
! Equipment name (sign)<br />
! Consumable name (sign)<br />
! Consumable cost (sign)<br />
! Equipment model number / description<br />
! Consumable model number / description<br />
! Consumable source and price (purchase)<br />
|-<br />
| []<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| | <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| [[Powermatic_14_inch_Bandsaw]]<br />
| Powermatic Band Saw<br />
| New blade<br />
| $25<br />
| Powermatic saw with riser block, requires a 105 inch blade<br />
| Timber Wolf® 3/8" x 4TPI, Replacement blades may be on hand in wood shop cabinet<br />
| Timber Wolf Band Saw Blades www.suffolkmachinery.com<br />
|-<br />
| [[Rigid 16gal Wet-Dry Vac]]<br />
| Shop Vac<br />
| Replace filter<br />
| $18<br />
| Rigid 16gal Wet-Dry Vac<br />
| Replace paper filter model VF4000<br />
| Home Depot ($18.00 on 12/2012)<br />
|-<br />
| [[SawStop Table Saw]]<br />
| Table Saw<br />
| New blade<br />
| $100<br />
| SawStop 10" Cabinet Saw<br />
| SawStop BTS-R-40ATB 40-Tooth blade<br />
| Amazon<br />
|-<br />
| [[SawStop Table Saw]]<br />
| Table Saw<br />
| Brake Cartridge<br />
| $69<br />
| Brake Cartridge<br />
| SawStop TSBC-10R2<br />
| Rockler or Amazon<br />
|-<br />
| [[SawStop Table Saw]]<br />
| Table Saw<br />
| Sharpen blade<br />
| $30<br />
| SawStop 10" Cabinet Saw<br />
| Sharpen blade (type TBD)<br />
| Glenn Wing tools<br />
|-<br />
| [[DeWALT Mitersaw]]<br />
| Mitersaw<br />
| New blade<br />
| $125<br />
| DeWalt DW 705<br />
| New 12in blade (Freud LU85R012)<br />
| Rockler or Woodcraft$125<br />
|-<br />
| [[DeWALT Mitersaw]]<br />
| Mitersaw<br />
| Sharpen blade<br />
| $32<br />
| DeWalt DW 705<br />
| Sharpen 12in blade (96-tooth carbide)<br />
| Glenn Wing Tools ($57)<br />
|-<br />
| [[Milwaukee Panel Saw]]<br />
| Panel saw<br />
| New Blade<br />
| $62<br />
| Freud LU82M008<br />
| 8-Inch 48 Tooth TCG Crosscutting and Ripping Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor<br />
|Amazon<br />
|-<br />
| [[Powermatic Oscillating Spindle Sander]]<br />
| Oscillating Spindle Sander<br />
| New sandpaper sleeve<br />
| $3<br />
| Powermatic 014<br />
| New sandpaper sleeve ---1 1/2 in x 6, 2"x6", 60 or 100 Grit<br />
| Klingspor Woodworking http://www.woodworkingshop.com<br />
|-<br />
| [[Powermatic Belt and Disc Sander]]<br />
| Belt and Disc Sander<br />
| Abrasives disc and Belt<br />
| $9<br />
|Powermatic Medel 31A<br />
|12 inch disc, 6 x 48 inch Belt, $9.00<br />
| Klingspor Woodworking http://www.woodworkingshop.com<br />
|-<br />
| [[Jet Drum Sander]]<br />
| Drum Sander<br />
| New sandpaper precut Ready to Wrap belts<br />
| $12<br />
| Jet<br />
| 60-6080 Ready-To-WrapTM Abrasive Strip, 80 Grit<br />
| Rockler<br />
|-<br />
|[[Hand Sanders]]<br />
| 5 inch R.O. Sander<br />
| 5 inch Velcro 8 hole disc<br />
| $.50 each<br />
| Any<br />
| 80, 100, 120, 220, 320 Grit<br />
| Rockler, H.D<br />
|-<br />
| [[Craftsman 16gal Wet-Dry Vac]]<br />
| Wet-Dry Vac<br />
| New paper filter<br />
| $20<br />
| Craftsman 113.177611 <br />
| New paper filter (Sears part number 17816)<br />
| Sears ($17)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
[[Category:Wood Shop]][[Category:Reference Data]]</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Wood_Shop_Consumables&diff=20355Wood Shop Consumables2019-01-19T16:40:20Z<p>Gsmith: cost update</p>
<hr />
<div>== Welcome to the Wood Shop Consumables List! ==<br />
* The purpose of this list is to provide a central place for information about wood shop consumables.<br />
* The sign columns are for signs to hang on or near equipment to inform/remind members of the approximate cost of consumables. These signs are meant to help users decide how much they will contribute to the consumables money box when working in the wood shop. <br />
* [[Media:signforwoodshopconsumable.doc|Sign example in doc format]]<br />
* The columns for purchase information are intended to be more specific and detailed, to help members purchase consumables.<br />
<br />
{| cellspacing="1" cellpadding="1" border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! Equipment name/wikilink <br />
! Equipment name (sign)<br />
! Consumable name (sign)<br />
! Consumable cost (sign)<br />
! Equipment model number / description<br />
! Consumable model number / description<br />
! Consumable source and price (purchase)<br />
|-<br />
| []<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| | <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| [[Powermatic_14_inch_Bandsaw]]<br />
| Powermatic Band Saw<br />
| New blade<br />
| $25<br />
| Powermatic saw with riser block, requires a 105 inch blade<br />
| Timber Wolf® 3/8" x 4TPI, Replacement blades may be on hand in wood shop cabinet<br />
| Timber Wolf Band Saw Blades www.suffolkmachinery.com<br />
|-<br />
| [[Rigid 16gal Wet-Dry Vac]]<br />
| Shop Vac<br />
| Replace filter<br />
| $18<br />
| Rigid 16gal Wet-Dry Vac<br />
| Replace paper filter model VF4000<br />
| Home Depot ($18.00 on 12/2012)<br />
|-<br />
| [[SawStop Table Saw]]<br />
| Table Saw<br />
| New blade<br />
| $100<br />
| SawStop 10" Cabinet Saw<br />
| SawStop BTS-R-40ATB 40-Tooth blade<br />
| Amazon<br />
|-<br />
| [[SawStop Table Saw]]<br />
| Table Saw<br />
| Brake Cartridge<br />
| $69<br />
| Brake Cartridge<br />
| SawStop TSBC-10R2<br />
| Rockler or Amazon<br />
|-<br />
| [[SawStop Table Saw]]<br />
| Table Saw<br />
| Sharpen blade<br />
| $30<br />
| SawStop 10" Cabinet Saw<br />
| Sharpen blade (type TBD)<br />
| Glenn Wing tools<br />
|-<br />
| [[DeWALT Mitersaw]]<br />
| Mitersaw<br />
| New blade<br />
| $125<br />
| DeWalt DW 705<br />
| New 12in blade (Freud LU85R012)<br />
| Rockler or Woodcraft$125<br />
|-<br />
| [[DeWALT Mitersaw]]<br />
| Mitersaw<br />
| Sharpen blade<br />
| $32<br />
| DeWalt DW 705<br />
| Sharpen 12in blade (96-tooth carbide)<br />
| Glenn Wing Tools ($57)<br />
|-<br />
| [[Milwaukee Panel Saw]]<br />
| Panel saw<br />
| New Blade<br />
| $62<br />
| Freud LU82M008<br />
| 8-Inch 48 Tooth TCG Crosscutting and Ripping Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor<br />
|Amazon<br />
|-<br />
| [[Powermatic Oscillating Spindle Sander]]<br />
| Oscillating Spindle Sander<br />
| New sandpaper sleeve<br />
| $3<br />
| Powermatic 014<br />
| New sandpaper sleeve ---1 1/2 in x 6, 2"x6"<br />
| Klingspor Woodworking http://www.woodworkingshop.com<br />
|-<br />
| [[Powermatic Belt and Disc Sander]]<br />
| Belt and Disc Sander<br />
| Abrasives disc and Belt<br />
| <br />
|Powermatic Medel 31A<br />
|12 inch disc, 6 x 48 inch Belt<br />
| Klingspor Woodworking http://www.woodworkingshop.com<br />
|-<br />
| [[Jet Drum Sander]]<br />
| Drum Sander<br />
| New sandpaper precut Ready to Wrap belts<br />
| $12<br />
| Jet<br />
| 60-6080 Ready-To-WrapTM Abrasive Strip, 80 Grit<br />
| Rockler<br />
|-<br />
|[[Hand Sanders]]<br />
| 5 inch R.O. Sander<br />
| 5 inch Velcro 8 hole disc<br />
| $.50 each<br />
| Any<br />
| 80, 100, 120, 220, 320 Grit<br />
| Rockler, H.D<br />
|-<br />
| [[Craftsman 16gal Wet-Dry Vac]]<br />
| Wet-Dry Vac<br />
| New paper filter<br />
| $20<br />
| Craftsman 113.177611 <br />
| New paper filter (Sears part number 17816)<br />
| Sears ($17)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
[[Category:Wood Shop]][[Category:Reference Data]]</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Cyclonic_Dust_Collection_System&diff=20096Cyclonic Dust Collection System2018-11-30T00:45:21Z<p>Gsmith: Added Air Lock info</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Cyclonic Dust Collection System<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=cyclonicdustcollection.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=TBD<br />
|Date=July 2011<br />
|StorageLocation=This system is located at the north end of the wood shop.<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=Now$2,000, New $10,000<br />
|Documentation=*<br />
|OtherReferences=Estimated Characteristics 12in input duct, 4,000 cfm, Peak material 500 lbs/hr, density of wood chips 17lbs/cu ft*<br />
|Intro=For collecting dust from the wood shop.<br />
*Main Motor Name plate info<br />
*hp=7.5, Voltage 208-230/460, Amps 21-18.8/9.4, RPM= 3450, 3 phase, 60 HZ, Service F. 1.15<br />
* Rotary Air Lock is Tice Model VJ10x8, S/N 36299-C1127<br />
*chain driven by:<br />
* Motor A.O. Smith Model HF27034N, 115V ac, 1 P, 3/4hp 1700 rpm with gear box<br />
|Rules=* Use with wood dust only, please!<br />
* Turn on when using Table saw, Miter saw, Bandsaw, Sander.<br />
* The ductwork is permanently connected to the table saw and miter saw.<br />
* Open slide gates when using the bandsaw or sander and close when done.<br />
* Connect with hose to planer and jointer when using these tools<br />
|Instructions=* The power switch is on ductwork down drop between the table saw and the chop saw. It is held in place with a magnet.<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Check Chip bin after each use, empty when 1/2 to 3/4 full, use 55gal trash bags located near machine<br />
|FAQs=*When the barrels under the sleeves feel full, empty them into the dumpster. <br />
*Replace the plastic bag with a new one of the right size. <br />
*<br />
|ToDos=purchased use New Rotary AirLock*<br />
|Maintenance Info=*<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=SawStop_Table_Saw&diff=19715SawStop Table Saw2018-09-05T14:27:34Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=SawStop Table Saw<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=sawstoptablesaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=SawStop PCS31230-TPG236 10" Professional Cabinet Saw<br />
|PartNumber=S/N P131230787 Service Date 6-12-2013<br />
|Date=6/12/13<br />
|StorageLocation=This table saw is located in the Wood Shop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=2899.00<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:sawstop_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3mzhvMgrLE High speed video demonstration of SawStop brake in action]<br />
|Intro=For sawing wood.<br />
* Authorization Required for member or guest to Use this Tool Contact a Coordinator or trainer<br />
|Rules=*'''[[Wait until the blade stops moving before making adjustments or you will trip the brake]]'''<br />
*Training for Authorization is Required and is listed here: [[Wood Shop Training]]<br />
<br />
* Ripping kiln dried wood, cross cutting panels.<br />
*'''Do not cut metals, conductive materials, anything with carbon such as laser cut or engraved traces, black plastic or formica or melamine, green wood, wet wood. If in doubt contact a Woodshop Coordinator.'''<br />
*In the event of a flesh contact safety trip i3 will cover the brake cartridge cost, the member will pay for a new Saw Blade $100 range<br />
* Other trips, from unauthorized use or material, the member or guest replaces the brake and the blade Approx. $190<br />
*Either the saw safety guard or riving knife must always be used. Never make a cut with out this protection.<br />
*If using the riving knife, please remove it when you are done and reinstall the full blade guard.<br />
*After use if using an alternative blade (plywood) replace it with the Combination blade.<br />
*After use return the blade to its normal position "vertical" <br />
*The saw must be off and unplugged when changing the blade guard or riving knife and when making any internal adjustments<br />
*Do not set water or drink containers on the cast iron table<br />
*Please use the dust collector when sawing<br />
|Instructions=* Check the condition and location of the blade to assure it is correct for your cut, make sure the blade is clear.<br />
*To start the saw, first make sure the Start/Stop paddle is in the “OFF” position (i.e., pushed in) and then turn the main power switch to the “ON” position by flipping the toggle upward.<br />
*The saw control switch ( will start with green and blinking red) after which it will show a steady green light and red off indicating it is ok to start the motor.<br />
*To start the motor pull the start/stop paddle out. To stop the motor push the start/stop paddle in. The paddle is designed so that it can be pushed in by the operator's leg or knee in an emergency.<br />
*It is not necessary to turn off the main power switch after pushing in the Start/Stop paddle to turn off the motor. If you plan to make several cuts with the saw, you can leave the main power switch in the ON position between cuts to eliminate the delay due to the initialization routine. Once you have finished using the saw, turn the main power switch to OFF to reduce the likelihood of inadvertent start-up.<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
* Introduction to SAWSTOP, assumes knowledge of table saw general use. = [[media:SawStop_Introduction.pdf]]<br />
*Table saw basics class outline. [[media:Table_Saw_Basics.pdf ]]<br />
<br />
==Sawing off Book Bindings==<br />
<br />
*NEVER TRY SAWING OFF A BOOK BINDING THAT CONTAINS ANY TYPE OF METAL (e.g. staples), ALWAYS CAREFULLY INSPECT FIRST!<br />
*Although it can be done, it is not recommended. Book bindings often contain glue can heat up and mix with the shredded paper. This mix sticks to the other parts of the machine. Later on, other particles can attach and cause a malfunction.<br />
*After sawing, the mix of glue/paper must be carefully removed from all parts of the machine using a tool that won’t scratch any part of the machine, such as a thin piece of wood along with a soft brush. Make sure that both the internal and external parts of the machine where the saw dust may have gone are inspected and cleaned as needed.<br />
*When in doubt, ask the zone warden!<br />
<br />
== In Event of Emergency or Saw Safety Trip ==<br />
*Call 911 if you are hurt and do not move your work, we need to document any failure or accident, take pictures, call one of the wardens.<br />
* An accident report must be filled out.<br />
'''Do not try and repair or replace parts with-out Coordinator approval.'''<br />
== Saw Safety Trip Information ==<br />
*In general, the safety system acts in the following way:<br />
A small radio-frequency signal is coupled onto the blade by the brake cartridge via a signal line leading to the arbor. While the saw is running, the brake cartridge is also constantly monitoring this signal via a signal return line. If the signal level on the blade drops suddenly, the cartridge detects that drop, and activates the brake mechanism.<br />
*There are two ways to cause a signal drop:<br />
# Load the signal down by grounding it or absorbing it into a large conductive object, or<br />
# Interrupt the signal from the signal or return lines (this only happens if a line breaks or a connection comes loose.)<br />
1. above is the usual cause by which activations occur. The human body, once the outer skin layers are penetrated, is very conductive and is quite capable of loading down the signal on the saw blade. A person does not need to be grounded to load down the signal.<br />
*'''Other sources of signal loss are due to blade contact with:'''<br />
'''BODIES OF METAL:<br />
# Metal sheeting such as Aluminum or copper<br />
# Grounded metal (i.e. the blade guard splitter, the riving knife, a metal jig, or a metal tape measure in contact with the table top.)<br />
# Relatively large masses of ungrounded metal, such as a tape measure not in contact with the table or a combination square or ruler)<br />
# Foil-backed insulation<br />
# Mirror-backed plastic (usually a metallic layer deposited onto the back of the plastic)<br />
#. Metallic paint layers (e.g. gold paint on picture frames)<br />
'''Other conductive materials:'''<br />
# Conductive laminate layers (some countertops have a foil layer behind the Formica)<br />
# Black melamine board that has carbon black in the melamine layer<br />
#Carbon composite materials (helicopter blades, ski poles, fishing poles, tennis racquets)<br />
# Electronic circuit boards (because of the conductive layers)<br />
# Cell phones (you might think it’s listed here just for humor value, but a shop student actually did run his cell phone into a saw to see what would happen)<br />
#Uncured glue layers (wet glue is a good electrical simulator of a person)<br />
# Wet pressure-treated materials (the metallic salt solutions use to treat the wood are quite conductive unless very dry)<br />
# Very wet wood (though usually the saw will try to shut down rather than activating the brake)<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=* Keep table clean, clear and dry<br />
* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
*If the brake trips Both the brake cartridge and Blade MUST be changed<br />
|FAQs=;What happens if the safety brake trips?<br />
The saw comes to an abrupt stop, loud noise, and the blade lowers as part of the energy absorption mechanics.<br />
;Is the brake cartride or blade reusable?<br />
No, the brake cartridge and saw blade are rendered unusable.<br />
;How much do the brake cartridges cost?<br />
$69 <br />
;How wet is wet ?<br />
Any wood that has been left outside exposed to the elements for an extended time.<br />
Green freshly cut wood.<br />
;Will this system prevent Kickback?<br />
NO, all normal kickback precautions must be taken<br />
|ToDos=* make cutting fixtures and storage for saw things<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Evan Allen<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mark Ament<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/06/01<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Nickolas Anderson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=06/29/2013<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Jon Anderson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/12<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=John Anderson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=06/13/2013<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Ryan Ball<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=06/18/2013<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Cody Barz<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/12/16<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Joseph Bauman<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/11/21<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Kevin Bessemer<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brandon Chase<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brandon Biller<br />
|TrainedBy=Konrad Brown<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Konrad Brown<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/12/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Shadow Daiz<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Sean Denny<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mike Fink<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Fai Foen<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/01/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=James Freed<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/01/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Gardeski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/01/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Cameron Geralds<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/12/16<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Aaron Greenwell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Leonard Kinnaird-Heether<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/12/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Amy Hang<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Ted Hansen<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/12/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Andy Hayden<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/3/31<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Henry<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/11/07<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Richard Hillier<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=11/29/2016<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Huber<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Simon Hurst<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Thad Johnson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/07/17<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tom Kim<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/09/01<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Ron Knockeart<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/05/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Nick Kriete<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/23<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Keegan Kuvach<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/11<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Duran Mapson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/11/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Rocco Marras<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/08/01<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Collin Martel<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/07/17<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Steve Marlow<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tyler Marlow<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Colin Martin<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/11/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mark Metcalf<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/07/09<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mark Miles<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Charlie Mooney<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/01/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Zachary Nash<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/11/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Bravin Neff<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/3/31<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Steve Nowicki<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/18<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=James O'Dell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Les Orchard<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Chris Orth<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Christine Osinski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/14<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Christopher Platzer<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Rich Points<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/02/21<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Charlie Rysenga<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Kirsten Schaefer<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/11/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Adam Scholl<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Steve Shmanske<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Slover<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/11/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Rob Stein<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/23<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=John Sugg<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Justin Triplett<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Nate W<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Nicole Weltman<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brian Wennberg<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Will Hinchman<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/02/28<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mary Hobart<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/03/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Patrick Irish<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/03/21<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Evan Parizot<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/05/16<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Sasha Brandt<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/06/27<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Adam Schrader<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/08/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Walker Archer<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/08/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Thomas Tufts<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/08/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mike Schweyen<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/05/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Cyrille Goldstein<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/05/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Marty Peltz<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/08/07<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2013/05/28<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2013/05/28<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Thomas Tusano<br />
|CertifiedDate=2018/03/29<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Konrad Brown<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Powermatic_Belt_and_Disc_Sander&diff=18661Powermatic Belt and Disc Sander2018-04-22T13:05:42Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Powermatic Belt & Disc Sander 1.5 hp, 230V<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=PwrMat_Sander.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Powermatic Medel 31A, POW1791291K<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 140914380<br />
|Date=11/14/2014<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=1490.00<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Belt_Disc_Sander_Manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Sander consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=This sander is only for sanding wood and soft non-metalic materials that will not clog the sandpaper<br />
|Rules=Authorization Required, Read, understand and follow safety instructions found in the users manual<br />
*'''Materials,''' This sander is not for metals, only use on wood and some plastics or composites<br />
*'''Eye Safety''' is required using approved safety shield, glasses, or goggles (common eye glasses are not approved)<br />
*'''Personal Protection.''' Before operating the machine, remove tie, rings, watch and other jewelry and roll up sleeves above the elbows. Remove all loose outer clothing and confine long hair.<br />
*'''Guards:''' Keep the machine guards in place at all times when the machine is in use.<br />
*'''Work Area:''' Keep the floor around the machine clean and free of scrap material, saw dust, oil and other liquids to minimize the danger of tripping or slipping.<br />
* '''Belt and Disc Direction. '''Proper belt direction is from the idler pulley towards the drive pulley. Proper disc rotation is counterclockwise facing the disc. CAUTION: Sand on the section of the disc from the center to the left edge. DO NOT use the right hand portion for sanding.<br />
*'''Hand safety.''' Keep fingers and hands away from the belt or disc. DO NOT clear sawdust from the table with the hands; use a brush. On small or thin parts, use a push stick or jig to keep the hands from contacting the abrasive. If using the optional fence, avoid getting fingers too close to the fence to prevent pinching. Never wear gloves while operating the sander.<br />
|Instructions=The belt and disc sander can be equipped with a variety of abrasives and grit sizes to handle a wide variety of materials. It can be used to rapidly remove material and produce a mirror finish. Using various types of fixtures, they can be used to sand template forms, angles, freehand contours, and flats on edges, surfaces and ends.<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brandon Biller<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=william Cunningham<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Adam Scholl<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Cameron Geralds<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Leonard KH<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Gardeski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Jewell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Kevin Flory<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Henry<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Levi Morey<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Charlie Rysenga<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brian McPherson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Konrad Brown<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Powermatic_14_inch_Bandsaw&diff=18660Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw2018-04-22T13:04:55Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw 1.5 hp, 230V,with 6 in Riser and Kreg precision rip fence<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=PwrMat_Bandsaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Powermatic PWBS14<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 140420023<br />
|Date=11/14/2014<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=1199.00<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:PowerMatic_Band_Saw_Manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
* [[Media:Kregfence.pdf|Kreg precision fence manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Bandsaw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=The saw is particularly useful for cutting irregular or curved shapes, but can make straight cuts. The minimum radius of a curve that can be cut on a particular saw is determined by the width of the band and its kerf.<br />
|Rules='''[[Band Saw Insert Training]]''' is required for all users<br />
<br />
'''Authorization Required''' for machine adjustments and blade changes<br />
*For cutting wood or plastics, no metals<br />
* Read, understand and follow the safety instructions found in the manual<br />
* Keep fingers 3 inches from the blade<br />
* Do not cut wood that is not flat on the bottom, use a jig<br />
* Never clear small pieces while the blade is running<br />
* Do not push work with your thumbs.<br />
* Keep guards in place<br />
*Do not force the tool, it will do a better job at the rates it is designed for<br />
*Wear proper apparel, do not wear loose clothing or other items that may get caught. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.<br />
*Always wear Safety glasses.<br />
|Instructions=Plan your cuts before making them<br />
*Set Upper Blade guide assembly, raise or lower to just above the material being cut<br />
* make sure the Tension Adjustment lever is in the up position<br />
*Turn on the work light<br />
*Feed material only into the blade DO NOT BACK UP MATERIAL with the machine running or the blade will come loose from the guides. stop it first.<br />
*Feed work gently into the blade, do not force the work or bend the blade<br />
*In most situations a cutting line should be followed<br />
*Both hands should be used to feed the wood, and placed on opposite sides of the blade<br />
*A jig or clamp should be used to hold odd shaped or round pieces<br />
* Make through cuts or release cuts, if needed predrill holes so that waste pieces can be removed<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=THE SAW:<br />
*Clean the tires when changing blades, use a scraper to clean gunk off the tire<br />
*Clean the table surface with table cleaning abrasive then coat with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"<br />
*Blow out the blade guide assemblies to clean out dust and debris.<br />
**CLEANING THE BLADE<br />
*De-tension the blade and remove from the saw<br />
*Coil the blade so it fits in the cleaning tub (located on top of wood shop cabinet)<br />
*Mix a solution of "Simple Green" or other degreaser about 50/50 and soak the blade in it for 45 min or until the gunk is somewhat loose<br />
*Using a BRASS brush clean the blade (not easy to do because you will probably need to uncoil the blade)<br />
*Rinse with water<br />
*Coat the blade with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"to prevent rusting.<br />
*Reinstall, re-tensio the blade align the blade on the tires and in the roller guides as one usually does when changing blades.<br />
|FAQs=*SAW MAKES UNSATISFACTORY CUTS<br />
**Dull Blade<br />
**Blade mounted Wrong<br />
**Gum or Pitch on blade<br />
**Incorrect blade for cut<br />
**Tension not set properly<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Kevin Flory<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Gardeski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Andy Hayden<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/03/31<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Adam Scholl<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Levi Morey<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brian McPherson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=William Cunningham<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Henry<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Leonard RH<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Charlie Rysenga<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Jewell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Cameron Geralds<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Slover<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Klein<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Terry Wynn<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/01/17<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Sean Work<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/04/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Vivian Sanders<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/04/17<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Thomas Tusano<br />
|CertifiedDate=2018/03/29<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Powermatic_Belt_and_Disc_Sander&diff=18659Powermatic Belt and Disc Sander2018-04-22T13:01:18Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Powermatic Belt & Disc Sander<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=PwrMat_Sander.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Powermatic Medel 31A, POW1791291K<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 140914380<br />
|Date=11/14/2014<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=1490.00<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Belt_Disc_Sander_Manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Sander consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=This sander is only for sanding wood and soft non-metalic materials that will not clog the sandpaper<br />
|Rules=Authorization Required, Read, understand and follow safety instructions found in the users manual<br />
*'''Materials,''' This sander is not for metals, only use on wood and some plastics or composites<br />
*'''Eye Safety''' is required using approved safety shield, glasses, or goggles (common eye glasses are not approved)<br />
*'''Personal Protection.''' Before operating the machine, remove tie, rings, watch and other jewelry and roll up sleeves above the elbows. Remove all loose outer clothing and confine long hair.<br />
*'''Guards:''' Keep the machine guards in place at all times when the machine is in use.<br />
*'''Work Area:''' Keep the floor around the machine clean and free of scrap material, saw dust, oil and other liquids to minimize the danger of tripping or slipping.<br />
* '''Belt and Disc Direction. '''Proper belt direction is from the idler pulley towards the drive pulley. Proper disc rotation is counterclockwise facing the disc. CAUTION: Sand on the section of the disc from the center to the left edge. DO NOT use the right hand portion for sanding.<br />
*'''Hand safety.''' Keep fingers and hands away from the belt or disc. DO NOT clear sawdust from the table with the hands; use a brush. On small or thin parts, use a push stick or jig to keep the hands from contacting the abrasive. If using the optional fence, avoid getting fingers too close to the fence to prevent pinching. Never wear gloves while operating the sander.<br />
|Instructions=The belt and disc sander can be equipped with a variety of abrasives and grit sizes to handle a wide variety of materials. It can be used to rapidly remove material and produce a mirror finish. Using various types of fixtures, they can be used to sand template forms, angles, freehand contours, and flats on edges, surfaces and ends.<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brandon Biller<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=william Cunningham<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Adam Scholl<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Cameron Geralds<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Leonard KH<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Gardeski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Jewell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Kevin Flory<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Henry<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Levi Morey<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Charlie Rysenga<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brian McPherson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Konrad Brown<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Powermatic_14_inch_Bandsaw&diff=18658Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw2018-04-22T12:59:12Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw with 6 in Riser and Kreg precision rip fence<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=PwrMat_Bandsaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Powermatic PWBS14<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 140420023<br />
|Date=11/14/2014<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=1199.00<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:PowerMatic_Band_Saw_Manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
* [[Media:Kregfence.pdf|Kreg precision fence manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Bandsaw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=The saw is particularly useful for cutting irregular or curved shapes, but can make straight cuts. The minimum radius of a curve that can be cut on a particular saw is determined by the width of the band and its kerf.<br />
|Rules='''[[Band Saw Insert Training]]''' is required for all users<br />
<br />
'''Authorization Required''' for machine adjustments and blade changes<br />
*For cutting wood or plastics, no metals<br />
* Read, understand and follow the safety instructions found in the manual<br />
* Keep fingers 3 inches from the blade<br />
* Do not cut wood that is not flat on the bottom, use a jig<br />
* Never clear small pieces while the blade is running<br />
* Do not push work with your thumbs.<br />
* Keep guards in place<br />
*Do not force the tool, it will do a better job at the rates it is designed for<br />
*Wear proper apparel, do not wear loose clothing or other items that may get caught. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.<br />
*Always wear Safety glasses.<br />
|Instructions=Plan your cuts before making them<br />
*Set Upper Blade guide assembly, raise or lower to just above the material being cut<br />
* make sure the Tension Adjustment lever is in the up position<br />
*Turn on the work light<br />
*Feed material only into the blade DO NOT BACK UP MATERIAL with the machine running or the blade will come loose from the guides. stop it first.<br />
*Feed work gently into the blade, do not force the work or bend the blade<br />
*In most situations a cutting line should be followed<br />
*Both hands should be used to feed the wood, and placed on opposite sides of the blade<br />
*A jig or clamp should be used to hold odd shaped or round pieces<br />
* Make through cuts or release cuts, if needed predrill holes so that waste pieces can be removed<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=THE SAW:<br />
*Clean the tires when changing blades, use a scraper to clean gunk off the tire<br />
*Clean the table surface with table cleaning abrasive then coat with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"<br />
*Blow out the blade guide assemblies to clean out dust and debris.<br />
**CLEANING THE BLADE<br />
*De-tension the blade and remove from the saw<br />
*Coil the blade so it fits in the cleaning tub (located on top of wood shop cabinet)<br />
*Mix a solution of "Simple Green" or other degreaser about 50/50 and soak the blade in it for 45 min or until the gunk is somewhat loose<br />
*Using a BRASS brush clean the blade (not easy to do because you will probably need to uncoil the blade)<br />
*Rinse with water<br />
*Coat the blade with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"to prevent rusting.<br />
*Reinstall, re-tensio the blade align the blade on the tires and in the roller guides as one usually does when changing blades.<br />
|FAQs=*SAW MAKES UNSATISFACTORY CUTS<br />
**Dull Blade<br />
**Blade mounted Wrong<br />
**Gum or Pitch on blade<br />
**Incorrect blade for cut<br />
**Tension not set properly<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Kevin Flory<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Gardeski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Andy Hayden<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/03/31<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Adam Scholl<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Levi Morey<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brian McPherson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=William Cunningham<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Henry<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Leonard RH<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Charlie Rysenga<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Jewell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Cameron Geralds<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Slover<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Klein<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Terry Wynn<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/01/17<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Sean Work<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/04/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Vivian Sanders<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/04/17<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Thomas Tusano<br />
|CertifiedDate=2018/03/29<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=SawStop_Table_Saw&diff=18657SawStop Table Saw2018-04-22T12:56:14Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=SawStop Table Saw<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=sawstoptablesaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=SawStop PCS31230-TPG236 10" Professional Cabinet Saw<br />
|PartNumber=S/N P131230787 Service Date 6-12-2013<br />
|Date=6/12/13<br />
|StorageLocation=This table saw is located in the Wood Shop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=2899.00<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:sawstop_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3mzhvMgrLE High speed video demonstration of SawStop brake in action]<br />
|Intro=For sawing wood.<br />
* Authorization Required for member or guest to Use this Tool Contact a Coordinator or trainer<br />
|Rules=*'''[[Wait until the blade stops moving before making adjustments or you will trip the brake]]'''<br />
*Training for Authorization is Required and is listed here: [[Wood Shop Training]]<br />
<br />
* Ripping kiln dried wood, cross cutting panels.<br />
*'''Do not cut metals, conductive materials, anything with carbon such as laser cut or engraved traces, black plastic or formica or melamine, green wood, wet wood. If in doubt contact a Woodshop Coordinator.'''<br />
*In the event of a flesh contact safety trip i3 will cover the brake cartridge cost, the member will pay for a new Saw Blade $100 range<br />
* Other trips, from unauthorized use or material, the member or guest replaces the brake and the blade Approx. $190<br />
*Either the saw safety guard or riving knife must always be used. Never make a cut with out this protection.<br />
*If using the riving knife, please remove it when you are done and reinstall the full blade guard.<br />
*After use if using an alternative blade (plywood) replace it with the Combination blade.<br />
*After use return the blade to its normal position "vertical" <br />
*The saw must be off and unplugged when changing the blade guard or riving knife and when making any internal adjustments<br />
*Do not set water or drink containers on the cast iron table<br />
*Please use the dust collector when sawing<br />
|Instructions=* Check the condition and location of the blade to assure it is correct for your cut, make sure the blade is clear.<br />
*To start the saw, first make sure the Start/Stop paddle is in the “OFF” position (i.e., pushed in) and then turn the main power switch to the “ON” position by flipping the toggle upward.<br />
*The saw control switch ( will start with green and blinking red) after which it will show a steady green light and red off indicating it is ok to start the motor.<br />
*To start the motor pull the start/stop paddle out. To stop the motor push the start/stop paddle in. The paddle is designed so that it can be pushed in by the operator's leg or knee in an emergency.<br />
*It is not necessary to turn off the main power switch after pushing in the Start/Stop paddle to turn off the motor. If you plan to make several cuts with the saw, you can leave the main power switch in the ON position between cuts to eliminate the delay due to the initialization routine. Once you have finished using the saw, turn the main power switch to OFF to reduce the likelihood of inadvertent start-up.<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
* Introduction to SAWSTOP, assumes knowledge of table saw general use. = [[media:SawStop_Introduction.pdf]]<br />
*Table saw basics class outline. [[media:Table_Saw_Basics.pdf ]]<br />
<br />
==Sawing off Book Bindings==<br />
<br />
*NEVER TRY SAWING OFF A BOOK BINDING THAT CONTAINS ANY TYPE OF METAL (e.g. staples), ALWAYS CAREFULLY INSPECT FIRST!<br />
*Although it can be done, it is not recommended. Book bindings often contain glue can heat up and mix with the shredded paper. This mix sticks to the other parts of the machine. Later on, other particles can attach and cause a malfunction.<br />
*After sawing, the mix of glue/paper must be carefully removed from all parts of the machine using a tool that won’t scratch any part of the machine, such as a thin piece of wood along with a soft brush. Make sure that both the internal and external parts of the machine where the saw dust may have gone are inspected and cleaned as needed.<br />
*When in doubt, ask the zone warden!<br />
<br />
== In Event of Emergency or Saw Safety Trip ==<br />
*Call 911 if you are hurt and do not move your work, we need to document any failure or accident, take pictures, call one of the wardens.<br />
* An accident report must be filled out.<br />
'''Do not try and repair or replace parts with-out Coordinator approval.'''<br />
== Saw Safety Trip Information ==<br />
*In general, the safety system acts in the following way:<br />
A small radio-frequency signal is coupled onto the blade by the brake cartridge via a signal line leading to the arbor. While the saw is running, the brake cartridge is also constantly monitoring this signal via a signal return line. If the signal level on the blade drops suddenly, the cartridge detects that drop, and activates the brake mechanism.<br />
*There are two ways to cause a signal drop:<br />
# Load the signal down by grounding it or absorbing it into a large conductive object, or<br />
# Interrupt the signal from the signal or return lines (this only happens if a line breaks or a connection comes loose.)<br />
1. above is the usual cause by which activations occur. The human body, once the outer skin layers are penetrated, is very conductive and is quite capable of loading down the signal on the saw blade. A person does not need to be grounded to load down the signal.<br />
*'''Other sources of signal loss are due to blade contact with:'''<br />
'''BODIES OF METAL:<br />
# Metal sheeting such as Aluminum or copper<br />
# Grounded metal (i.e. the blade guard splitter, the riving knife, a metal jig, or a metal tape measure in contact with the table top.)<br />
# Relatively large masses of ungrounded metal, such as a tape measure not in contact with the table or a combination square or ruler)<br />
# Foil-backed insulation<br />
# Mirror-backed plastic (usually a metallic layer deposited onto the back of the plastic)<br />
#. Metallic paint layers (e.g. gold paint on picture frames)<br />
'''Other conductive materials:'''<br />
# Conductive laminate layers (some countertops have a foil layer behind the Formica)<br />
# Black melamine board that has carbon black in the melamine layer<br />
#Carbon composite materials (helicopter blades, ski poles, fishing poles, tennis racquets)<br />
# Electronic circuit boards (because of the conductive layers)<br />
# Cell phones (you might think it’s listed here just for humor value, but a shop student actually did run his cell phone into a saw to see what would happen)<br />
#Uncured glue layers (wet glue is a good electrical simulator of a person)<br />
# Wet pressure-treated materials (the metallic salt solutions use to treat the wood are quite conductive unless very dry)<br />
# Very wet wood (though usually the saw will try to shut down rather than activating the brake)<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=* Keep table clean, clear and dry<br />
* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
*If the brake trips Both the brake cartridge and Blade MUST be changed<br />
|FAQs=;What happens if the safety brake trips?<br />
The saw comes to an abrupt stop, loud noise, and the blade lowers as part of the energy absorption mechanics.<br />
;Is the brake cartride or blade reusable?<br />
No, the brake cartridge and saw blade are rendered unusable.<br />
;How much do the brake cartridges cost?<br />
$69 <br />
;How wet is wet ?<br />
Any wood that has been left outside exposed to the elements for an extended time.<br />
Green freshly cut wood.<br />
;Will this system prevent Kickback?<br />
NO, all normal kickback precautions must be taken<br />
|ToDos=* make cutting fixtures and storage for saw things<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
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|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
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}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Powermatic_14_inch_Bandsaw&diff=18652Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw2018-04-18T20:54:46Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw with 6 in Riser and Kreg precision rip fence<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=PwrMat_Bandsaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Powermatic PWBS14<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 140420023<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:PowerMatic_Band_Saw_Manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
* [[Media:Kregfence.pdf|Kreg precision fence manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Bandsaw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=The saw is particularly useful for cutting irregular or curved shapes, but can make straight cuts. The minimum radius of a curve that can be cut on a particular saw is determined by the width of the band and its kerf.<br />
|Rules='''[[Band Saw Insert Training]]''' is required for all users<br />
<br />
'''Authorization Required''' for machine adjustments and blade changes<br />
*For cutting wood or plastics, no metals<br />
* Read, understand and follow the safety instructions found in the manual<br />
* Keep fingers 3 inches from the blade<br />
* Do not cut wood that is not flat on the bottom, use a jig<br />
* Never clear small pieces while the blade is running<br />
* Do not push work with your thumbs.<br />
* Keep guards in place<br />
*Do not force the tool, it will do a better job at the rates it is designed for<br />
*Wear proper apparel, do not wear loose clothing or other items that may get caught. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.<br />
*Always wear Safety glasses.<br />
|Instructions=Plan your cuts before making them<br />
*Set Upper Blade guide assembly, raise or lower to just above the material being cut<br />
* make sure the Tension Adjustment lever is in the up position<br />
*Turn on the work light<br />
*Feed material only into the blade DO NOT BACK UP MATERIAL with the machine running or the blade will come loose from the guides. stop it first.<br />
*Feed work gently into the blade, do not force the work or bend the blade<br />
*In most situations a cutting line should be followed<br />
*Both hands should be used to feed the wood, and placed on opposite sides of the blade<br />
*A jig or clamp should be used to hold odd shaped or round pieces<br />
* Make through cuts or release cuts, if needed predrill holes so that waste pieces can be removed<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=THE SAW:<br />
*Clean the tires when changing blades, use a scraper to clean gunk off the tire<br />
*Clean the table surface with table cleaning abrasive then coat with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"<br />
*Blow out the blade guide assemblies to clean out dust and debris.<br />
**CLEANING THE BLADE<br />
*De-tension the blade and remove from the saw<br />
*Coil the blade so it fits in the cleaning tub (located on top of wood shop cabinet)<br />
*Mix a solution of "Simple Green" or other degreaser about 50/50 and soak the blade in it for 45 min or until the gunk is somewhat loose<br />
*Using a BRASS brush clean the blade (not easy to do because you will probably need to uncoil the blade)<br />
*Rinse with water<br />
*Coat the blade with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"to prevent rusting.<br />
*Reinstall, re-tensio the blade align the blade on the tires and in the roller guides as one usually does when changing blades.<br />
|FAQs=*SAW MAKES UNSATISFACTORY CUTS<br />
**Dull Blade<br />
**Blade mounted Wrong<br />
**Gum or Pitch on blade<br />
**Incorrect blade for cut<br />
**Tension not set properly<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
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|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
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|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
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|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
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|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
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|CertifiedDate=2018/03/29<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Router_Table&diff=18616Router Table2018-04-13T19:41:00Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Router Table<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=Router_Table.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Rockler Table and Stand, Router Dewalt Owner Greg Smith<br />
|Date=2014<br />
|StorageLocation=In the wood shop<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=$600<br />
|Documentation=*[[media:Bosh_1617_Manual.pdf|Bosch 1617 Router Manual]]<br />
*[[media:Router_Lift.pdf|Router Lift Instructions]]<br />
* [[media:DeWalt_Trim_Router.pdf|Dewalt Trim Router Users Manual]]<br />
* [[media:DeWalt_610_manual.pdf|DeWalt 610 Router Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=Please look over the<br />
[[media:Router_Care.pdf|Cutter and Collet Care booklet ]]<br />
|Intro=*It is used as a support for Routing Wood, Includes storage drawers for bits, special router tools with additional routers stored underneath. This page includes all detail on i3detroit individual routers.<br />
*The cutter and collet care booklet under documentation has a lot of good information.<br />
|Rules=*Read and Understand all safety instructions<br />
* Please wear safety glasses! and hearing protection<br />
* Unplug Router when changing or adjusting bits<br />
* Connect shop vac to fence if appropriate for the work.<br />
* Remove, clean, and return router bits to storage drawers when finished<br />
*Clean wood chips and dust from floor and router table<br />
*If fence was remove, replace it on the table<br />
*Report Router bit damage to Coordinator<br />
*Report need of any new or additional bits to Coordinator<br />
|Instructions=Read appropriate manuals before using tools<br />
After selecting the router bit, inspect the bit for damage from previous use, dullness, chips or resin build up. <br />
Check bearing guides and bit shank to make sure it is clean and brits. <br />
do not use any bits with burrs on it as it will result in an inaccurate cut and may cause vibration. <br />
Do not over tighten the collet.<br />
Use only the provided wrenches, do not use pliers, channel locks or adjustable wrenches to tighten or loosen collets. Shank length, insert at least 3/4 of the shank into the collet, but do not allow the shank to bottom out. Maintain a bottom gap of about 1/8 inch. <br />
* Do not over-tighten collet nuts<br />
* Use Push Blocks to keep hands a safe distance from rotating bits<br />
* Take light cuts<br />
*Reduce RPM Speeds for large bits<br />
* Use Feather board to hold work against fence or table<br />
* Never Climb Cut<br />
<br />
==Instructions for Incra (JessEm) router lift mechanism==<br />
*Adjust using hex wrench located on the side of the table<br />
*Raise router so collet is above table height to access collet nut and shaft.<br />
*To raise your router, turn the height adjustment handle clockwise. To lower, turn the handle counter-clockwise. <br />
*Insert Rings are held in by magnet and are available with different hole sizes to accommodate router bits They are kept on a hook on the side of the router table<br />
<br />
==Instructions for DeWalt Router==<br />
This router is located in the metal file cabinet drawer<br />
Primary use of this router is for above the work routing of large items<br />
*Changing the Bit<br />
**Unplug Router<br />
**Use two DeWalt wrenches to loosen/tighten the collet nut<br />
<br />
==Instructions for Bosh Router (mounted in router table)==<br />
*Changing the Bit<br />
**Unplug Router<br />
**Use two Bosh wrenches to loosen/tighten the collet nut<br />
<br />
==DeWalt Trim Router==<br />
*This router is located and stored in the metal file cabinet<br />
*Plunge router base is also available for this router <br />
*Changing the Bit<br />
**Unplug Router<br />
**Use two wrenches to loosen/tighten the collet nut, Shaft special 10 mm wrench, Collet Nut 17 mm wrench<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=*Clean Collets prior to using<br />
* Ball Bearing guides should be kept clean and free to rotate<br />
* Clean resin buildup on router bits with cleaning solvent<br />
*Remove router bits and return to appropriate storage area<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=RoundOverBit_Router_Cart&diff=18615RoundOverBit Router Cart2018-04-13T19:39:22Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=RoundOverBit Router Cart<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=roundoverbitroutercart.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit,<br />
|Date=2013<br />
|StorageLocation=This specialized router setup is installed on a rolling cart in the Wood Shop.<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=100<br />
|Intro=For easing (rounding-off) sharp corners on long board edges. This setup is a one-trick-pony, but it's a useful trick for a lot of people who use the wood shop. Board corners and edges up to about 5 in. long can be rounded off on the disc sander. For longer edges, use this cart.<br />
|Rules=* For safe control, push your workpiece with pusher-pads. This will help keep your fingers away from the blade. Even a small router like this one has enough power to grab your workpiece and fling it away without warning. When this happens, the board is no longer between your fingers and the cutting bit, and your fingers could go onto the bit before you have time to react.<br />
* Please do not adjust the router height without consulting a Wood-Shop warden.<br />
* Please do not change the router bit without consulting a Wood-Shop warden.<br />
* Please use the other router table for all other router-table work.<br />
|Instructions=* Wear hearing protection and eye protection.<br />
* Push your workpiece in a direction that goes against the rotation of the bit.<br />
* Round over the ends (edge-grain) of your workpiece before rounding over the sides parallel to the grain. This will tend to give you a more even and controllable cut.<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=* The bit is a 3/16 in round-over.<br />
|Category=Departed_Equipment<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Milwaukee_Panel_Saw&diff=18614Milwaukee Panel Saw2018-04-13T19:38:14Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Milwaukee Panel Saw<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=milwaukeepanelsaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Milwaukee Panel Saw Md. 6480 (Motor is Md. 6411)<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 797A495300081 (Motor is S/N 795A495300079)<br />
|Date=12/10/2018<br />
|StorageLocation=This item is located at the south end of the wood shop.<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=1000<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Milwaukee_6480.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
* [[Media:Milwaukee_panel_saw_parts.pdf|Parts List]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Milwaukee panel saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=For sawing wooden sheet goods.<br />
|Rules=* Use with wooden sheet goods only, please! <br />
* Severely warped sheets are not safe to cut.<br />
* Return the saw to the top of its travel when you are finished. This insures that the saw blade will not be misaligned or bent when the next workpiece is loaded. It also helps extend the life of the return spring.<br />
* Return the saw to the cross-cut position when you are finished. Only users over average height can reach the saw rotation pins at the top of the vertical saw travel. Users who are going to cross-cut will find the saw ready to use. Users who are going to rip-cut will need to lower the saw before loading the workpiece in order to set the rip height, and they can easily reach the rotation pins in this lowered position.<br />
|Instructions=*<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=*<br />
|FAQs=*<br />
|ToDos=*<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_15_inch_planer&diff=18613Jet 15 inch planer2018-04-13T19:33:16Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Jet 15 inch helical carbide cutter planer<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=15_inch_planer.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet 708543, JWP 15HH<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 17081269<br />
|Date=10/4/2017<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=no<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=$2,650<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Jet_15_inch_planer_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
*<br />
|OtherReferences=* Planer consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=This thickness planer is for use with kiln dried wood only and will create parallel top and bottom surfaces<br />
|Rules='''[[Use only kiln dried wood, not plywood, composites or plastics]]''' is required for all users<br />
<br />
'''Authorization Required''' for machine adjustments and blade changes<br />
*For cutting wood or plastics, no metals<br />
* Read, understand and follow the safety instructions found in the manual<br />
* Keep fingers 6 inches from the blade<br />
* Never clear small pieces while the blade is running<br />
* Use push paddles, Do not push work with your hands.<br />
* Keep guards in place<br />
*Do not force the tool, it will do a better job at the rates it is designed for<br />
*Wear proper apparel, do not wear loose clothing or other items that may get caught. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.<br />
*Always wear Safety glasses.<br />
|Instructions=Plan your cuts before making them<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Before doing maintenance on the machine, disconnect it from the electrical supply by pulling out the plug or switching off the main switch!<br />
The table should be kept clean and free of rust.<br />
The lubricant in the gear box must be drained and replaced every 2,500 hours. Multi-purpose gear box lubricant will be suitable.<br />
|FAQs=*Planer snipe - Table rollers not set, Inadequate support of long boards, Uneven feed roller pressure<br />
*Infeed and outfield not set<br />
*Poor feeding of lumber - planer table dirty, V belt sipping<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2017/10/05<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{Equipment Access<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=DeWALT_Mitersaw&diff=18612DeWALT Mitersaw2018-04-13T19:28:09Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=DeWALT Mitersaw<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=Dewalt_mitersaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=DeWALT DW 705 Type 6<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 14165<br />
|Date=2010<br />
|StorageLocation=This mitersaw is located at the south end of the wood shop.<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=250<br />
|Documentation=Link(s) to on-line documentation<br />
|OtherReferences=* Miter saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=For sawing wood, plastics or Non-Ferris thin metals using a special blade.<br />
|Rules=*If making more than one or 2 cuts please start the Big Dust collector system<br />
* Use with wood only, please! <br />
*Eye and ear Protection are required when operating the miter saw<br />
*Don't wear gloves, loose clothing, jewelry, or any dangling objects when operating a miter saw.<br />
* All guards must be in place and operating. If a guard seems slow to return to its normal position or hangs up, adjust it or repair it immediately.<br />
* Unplug or lockout power to the miter saw when making repairs or adjusting blades and guards<br />
*Hands and fingers must be kept clear of the blade by at least 6 in.<br />
* Clean the lower guard frequently to help visibility and movement.<br />
* To avoid losing control or placing hands in the blade path, hold or clamp all material securely against the fence when cutting.<br />
<br />
* Never cut small pieces.<br />
* Long material should be supported at the same height as the saw table.<br />
* To avoid contact with a coasting blade, do not reach into the cutting area until the blade comes to a full stop.<br />
* After completing a cut, release the trigger switch and allow the blade to come to a complete stop, then raise the blade from the workpiece. If the moving blade stays in the cutting area after the cutting is complete, injury can result from accidental contact.<br />
|Instructions=*Lift the blade guard with your thumb and sight down one edge of the blade to align your cut. Caution: Remove your fingers from the switch while you're aligning the cut. Firmly hold or clamp the workpiece. Then gradually release the blade guard and return your hand to the switch to make your cut.<br />
*A power miter saw is one of the best tools to cut tight-fitting joints on all kinds of moldings: window and door trim, baseboard and crowns. With a power miter saw and a sharp saw blade, it's easy to fine-tune a joint for a perfect fit by slightly adjusting the angle or trimming off a hair's width.<br />
*Be prepared for a startling experience the first time you squeeze the switch on a power miter saw. The saw will jerk and whine as the blade gets up to speed. Listen for the blade to reach top speed before starting your cut. Then lower the blade slowly and steadily through the board until the cut is complete. Hold the saw carriage down in this position and release the switch, allowing the blade to come to a complete stop before raising it. Maintain a firm grip on the workpiece until the blade stops spinning.<br />
*Aligning the blade with the cutting mark on your workpiece gets easier with practice. Cut a little beyond the line, leaving extra length on your workpiece. Test the fit Then slice off a little more. Keep a firm grip on the workpiece (with your hand a good 6 in. away from the blade) to prevent it from being pushed aside by the blade. For greater accuracy, clamp the workpiece.<br />
<br />
*Cutting short pieces requires special techniques<br />
*Whenever you have to cut miters on a piece less than about 8 in. long, cut them from a longer piece so you can keep your fingers in the safe zone away from the blade. If you need a 6-in. piece of baseboard with miters on both ends, for example, cut one miter on the end of a long piece of base. Then mark for the other miter, change the miter saw angle, and cut off the 6-in. piece while you hold the longer end. Very small pieces fall through the large gap in the fence on many saws and can easily break or be flung across the room. Sometimes it's helpful to attach a taller wood fence to your miter saw to support wide trim and reduce the size of the space near the blade.<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=*Sharpening the blade costs about $30 and rebrazing tips on the blade $8 to $10 a tooth.<br />
*Blade Changing -- there is a Non-Ferris blade available for the Miter saw, when changing the blade, use a T30 Torx bit to loosen (not remove) the screw that hold the shroud in place, slightly move the shroud back allowing access to the 1/2 inch hex bolt that holds the blade in (remember this is a left handed bolt).<br />
Be sure and reinstall the wood cutting blade after use.<br />
* If you think the blade is dull please advise the wood shop Coordinator<br />
|FAQs=*<br />
|ToDos=* <br />
* Hang 4 foot light over saw<br />
* add doors to cabinets<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Powermatic_Oscillating_Spindle_Sander&diff=18611Powermatic Oscillating Spindle Sander2018-04-13T19:26:10Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Powermatic Oscillating Spindle Sander<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=powermaticoscspinsand.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Powermatic 014<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 9814037<br />
|Date=2013<br />
|StorageLocation=This oscillating spindle sander is located on a rolling cart in the Wood Shop.<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=Obsolete model<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Powermatic_014_SANDER_2000.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Oscillating spindle sander consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=For shaping/sanding wood. A very versatile tool good for removing small amounts of material and splinters. Within limits (see below), plastic and aluminum can also be sanded.<br />
|Rules=* When sanding plastic, use the lightest possible pressure. Only do touch-up sanding, not bulk material removal. If the contact temperature gets hot enough to melt the plastic, solid plastic deposits will block the grit and the abrasive will be ruined. Make sure to clean all traces of plastic dust from the spindle when you are done. If you leave plastic dust on the spindle, it can melt and ruin the abrasive when the next user sands wood.<br />
* When sanding aluminum, use the lightest possible pressure. Only do touch-up sanding, not bulk material removal. Structural aluminum alloys are harder than the adhesive used to hold the grit to the paper. This means your aluminum workpiece is capable of scraping the grit off of the paper, which ruins the abrasive. <br />
* Don't sand or leave anything wet unless you meticulously clean up afterwards, the table will rust.<br />
|Instructions=* Let your workpiece touch the spindle and have the spindle do the work. If you have to use force to press your workpiece into the spindle, the abrasive is worn out (and unsafe).<br />
When changing drums, it takes (2) 17 mm wenches (hanging on the side) and since it is a left had thread, turn clockwise to remove.<br />
when changing sandpaper sleeves, the compression nut on the top is also left handed. Do not over tighten the nut is 12 mm, wrench hanging on the side<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=* Periodically cleaning the abrasive with the big natural rubber stick extends the life of the spindle. <br />
** White plastic-sanding dust must be removed from the spindle as soon as possible.<br />
** Solid plastic deposits cannot be removed from the spindle with the big natural rubber stick; this just wastes rubber.<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Powermatic_Oscillating_Spindle_Sander&diff=18610Powermatic Oscillating Spindle Sander2018-04-13T19:25:06Z<p>Gsmith: put back in service</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Powermatic Oscillating Spindle Sander<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=powermaticoscspinsand.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Powermatic 014<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 9814037<br />
|Date=2013<br />
|StorageLocation=This oscillating spindle sander is located on a rolling cart in the Wood Shop.<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Powermatic_014_SANDER_2000.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Oscillating spindle sander consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=For shaping/sanding wood. A very versatile tool good for removing small amounts of material and splinters. Within limits (see below), plastic and aluminum can also be sanded.<br />
|Rules=* When sanding plastic, use the lightest possible pressure. Only do touch-up sanding, not bulk material removal. If the contact temperature gets hot enough to melt the plastic, solid plastic deposits will block the grit and the abrasive will be ruined. Make sure to clean all traces of plastic dust from the spindle when you are done. If you leave plastic dust on the spindle, it can melt and ruin the abrasive when the next user sands wood.<br />
* When sanding aluminum, use the lightest possible pressure. Only do touch-up sanding, not bulk material removal. Structural aluminum alloys are harder than the adhesive used to hold the grit to the paper. This means your aluminum workpiece is capable of scraping the grit off of the paper, which ruins the abrasive. <br />
* Don't sand or leave anything wet unless you meticulously clean up afterwards, the table will rust.<br />
|Instructions=* Let your workpiece touch the spindle and have the spindle do the work. If you have to use force to press your workpiece into the spindle, the abrasive is worn out (and unsafe).<br />
When changing drums, it takes (2) 17 mm wenches (hanging on the side) and since it is a left had thread, turn clockwise to remove.<br />
when changing sandpaper sleeves, the compression nut on the top is also left handed. Do not over tighten the nut is 12 mm, wrench hanging on the side<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=* Periodically cleaning the abrasive with the big natural rubber stick extends the life of the spindle. <br />
** White plastic-sanding dust must be removed from the spindle as soon as possible.<br />
** Solid plastic deposits cannot be removed from the spindle with the big natural rubber stick; this just wastes rubber.<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_Drum_Sander&diff=18544Jet Drum Sander2018-04-02T23:27:22Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Augie Engelhart<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=drumsander.jpeg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet 16-32 Plus<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 150915533<br />
|Date=2016/03/05<br />
|StorageLocation=On a roll around cart in Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=$900<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Drumsande_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|Intro=* This machine is for use to sand unfinished wood only, No plastics or composites<br />
with all glue cleaned off the surface No paint<br />
|Rules=*'''Authorization is required to use this machine'''<br />
* Read and understand the entire machine manual before operating, this is required prior to authorization for use of this machine<br />
*'''Eye Safety''' is required to operate this machineAlways wear approved safety glasses<br />
*'''Personal Protection''' Remove ties rings and other jewelry, roll sleeves above the elbows, Remove all loose clothing, confine long hair<br />
*'''Ear Protection''' Wear ear protection during extended use<br />
*'''Maintenance''' Keep abrasives clean and know how to change the abrasive paper.<br />
|Instructions=*'''Material''' Maximum thickness 3 inches, Minimum thickness 1/32 with carrier<br />
* '''Inspect sanding drum''' to assure abrasive strip is correctly installed and the grit is adequate and in good shape clean with rubber cleaning stick if clogged.<br />
<br />
*'''Start Dust Collection System''' Connect Flex hose from North wall, open 4 inch blast gate and Start main system.<br />
* '''Set depth of cut''' A good rule of thumb when sanding is to lower the drum so it contacts the workpiece but drum can still be rotated by hand. NOTE: The use of a carrier or backer board, is recommended for cuts 1/16” or less. <br />
*'''Start Conveyor and select feed rate''' this is a complex process and can be read in detail on the manual<br />
*'''Start Drum''' Drum runs at a fixed speed and the switch is on the front of the conveyor control box.<br />
*'''Feed Stock'''When abrasive planing (or thickness sanding) a run of similar pieces that you want to have the same thickness, it is best to determine the thickness of the thinnest piece and process all pieces to that same thickness in one session. Be aware that the sander will remove cups and crowns in the workpiece; consider this when measuring and processing stock to the same thickness.<br />
*'''Check abrasive belt tension''' and retighten if needed<br />
===Instructional Videos===<br />
*'''General Info Video'''<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fkcI6s62E0<br />
<br />
*'''Tips on using the Sander video'''<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_E9sBZbD24&ebc<br />
<br />
*'''Changing Abrasive Belts''' (the machine shown is Super Max, similar to ours} just a little longer, same attachment<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5_GPFoZtXg<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Proper attachment of the abrasive strip to the drum is critical to achieving top performance from your drum sander. Abrasive strips do not have to be pre-measured. The end of the roll is first tapered and attached to the left (outboard) side of the drum. Then the strip is wrapped around the drum, and the second taper is made for attachment to the right (inboard) side of the drum<br />
*All abrasive strips will stretch in use and may stretch enough to allow the take-up lever to reach its lowest position so that it cannot maintain tension on the strip. If this occurs, follow the procedures to re-set the take- up lever..<br />
<br />
*1. Squeeze the fastener lever (Figure 11) on the outboard end of drum, and insert the tapered end of the abrasive so that it uses most of the width of the slot. Release the fastener lever to securely hold the strip end to the fastener.<br />
*2. Begin wrapping the strip around the drum. The tapered edge of the strip end should follow the edge of the drum.<br />
*3. Continue to wrap the abrasive in a spiral fashion by rotating the drum with one hand and guiding the strip with the other . Successive windings of the strip should be flush with previous windings without any overlap.<br />
*4. You can use your fingers to work the infeed take-up fastener, but it will be more convenient to use the TUFTool supplied with your sander. Hold the TUFTool with the red end pointing away from you and insert its hook into the outside hole of the fastener lever <br />
*5. Lift the lever with the TUFTool, pulling the lever up until it touches the inside of the drum.<br />
*6. Turn the TUFTool counterclockwise and lower it onto the abrasive strip, making sure it is holding the paper tight <br />
*7. Insert the tapered end of the abrasive strip into the slot and fastener. It may be necessary to trim the tapered end of the abrasive strip so that it does not “bottom out” against the inside of the drum.<br />
*8. Hold the abrasive in place with your left hand, lift up the TUFTool and turn it clockwise while maintaining upward pressure. Slowly move the TUFTool away from you slightly, then down, while easing it out of the hole. This releases the lever in its proper position <br />
*'''New and used but good abrasive rolls''' are stored in the drawers under the machine, please try and use the used rolls first, if they are no good or clogged, discard and use new.<br />
|ToDos=Add outfield tables<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Steve Nowicki<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/03/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Evan Allen<br />
|TrainedBy=Augie Engelhart<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/01/10<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Andrew Hayden<br />
|TrainedBy=Steve Nowicki<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/04/02<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Thomas Tufts<br />
|TrainedBy=Steve Nowicki<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/4/02<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2016/03/05<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Augie Engelhart<br />
|CertifiedDate=2017/08/15<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Steve Nowicki<br />
|CertifiedDate=2016/03/05<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
}<br />
}<br />
}<br />
}<br />
}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=SawStop_Table_Saw&diff=18540SawStop Table Saw2018-04-01T02:18:59Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=SawStop Table Saw<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=sawstoptablesaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=SawStop PCS31230-TPG236 10" Professional Cabinet Saw<br />
|PartNumber=S/N P131230787 Service Date 6-12-2013<br />
|StorageLocation=This table saw is located in the Wood Shop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:sawstop_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3mzhvMgrLE High speed video demonstration of SawStop brake in action]<br />
|Intro=For sawing wood.<br />
* Authorization Required for member or guest to Use this Tool Contact a Coordinator or trainer<br />
|Rules=*'''[[Wait until the blade stops moving before making adjustments or you will trip the brake]]'''<br />
*Training for Authorization is Required and is listed here: [[Wood Shop Training]]<br />
<br />
* Ripping kiln dried wood, cross cutting panels.<br />
*'''Do not cut metals, conductive materials, anything with carbon such as laser cut or engraved traces, black plastic or formica or melamine, green wood, wet wood. If in doubt contact a Woodshop Coordinator.'''<br />
*In the event of a flesh contact safety trip i3 will cover the brake cartridge cost, the member will pay for a new Saw Blade $100 range<br />
* Other trips, from unauthorized use or material, the member or guest replaces the brake and the blade Approx. $190<br />
*Either the saw safety guard or riving knife must always be used. Never make a cut with out this protection.<br />
*If using the riving knife, please remove it when you are done and reinstall the full blade guard.<br />
*After use if using an alternative blade (plywood) replace it with the Combination blade.<br />
*After use return the blade to its normal position "vertical" <br />
*The saw must be off and unplugged when changing the blade guard or riving knife and when making any internal adjustments<br />
*Do not set water or drink containers on the cast iron table<br />
*Please use the dust collector when sawing<br />
|Instructions=* Check the condition and location of the blade to assure it is correct for your cut, make sure the blade is clear.<br />
*To start the saw, first make sure the Start/Stop paddle is in the “OFF” position (i.e., pushed in) and then turn the main power switch to the “ON” position by flipping the toggle upward.<br />
*The saw control switch ( will start with green and blinking red) after which it will show a steady green light and red off indicating it is ok to start the motor.<br />
*To start the motor pull the start/stop paddle out. To stop the motor push the start/stop paddle in. The paddle is designed so that it can be pushed in by the operator's leg or knee in an emergency.<br />
*It is not necessary to turn off the main power switch after pushing in the Start/Stop paddle to turn off the motor. If you plan to make several cuts with the saw, you can leave the main power switch in the ON position between cuts to eliminate the delay due to the initialization routine. Once you have finished using the saw, turn the main power switch to OFF to reduce the likelihood of inadvertent start-up.<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
* Introduction to SAWSTOP, assumes knowledge of table saw general use. = [[media:SawStop_Introduction.pdf]]<br />
*Table saw basics class outline. [[media:Table_Saw_Basics.pdf ]]<br />
<br />
==Sawing off Book Bindings==<br />
<br />
*NEVER TRY SAWING OFF A BOOK BINDING THAT CONTAINS ANY TYPE OF METAL (e.g. staples), ALWAYS CAREFULLY INSPECT FIRST!<br />
*Although it can be done, it is not recommended. Book bindings often contain glue can heat up and mix with the shredded paper. This mix sticks to the other parts of the machine. Later on, other particles can attach and cause a malfunction.<br />
*After sawing, the mix of glue/paper must be carefully removed from all parts of the machine using a tool that won’t scratch any part of the machine, such as a thin piece of wood along with a soft brush. Make sure that both the internal and external parts of the machine where the saw dust may have gone are inspected and cleaned as needed.<br />
*When in doubt, ask the zone warden!<br />
<br />
== In Event of Emergency or Saw Safety Trip ==<br />
*Call 911 if you are hurt and do not move your work, we need to document any failure or accident, take pictures, call one of the wardens.<br />
* An accident report must be filled out.<br />
'''Do not try and repair or replace parts with-out Coordinator approval.'''<br />
== Saw Safety Trip Information ==<br />
*In general, the safety system acts in the following way:<br />
A small radio-frequency signal is coupled onto the blade by the brake cartridge via a signal line leading to the arbor. While the saw is running, the brake cartridge is also constantly monitoring this signal via a signal return line. If the signal level on the blade drops suddenly, the cartridge detects that drop, and activates the brake mechanism.<br />
*There are two ways to cause a signal drop:<br />
# Load the signal down by grounding it or absorbing it into a large conductive object, or<br />
# Interrupt the signal from the signal or return lines (this only happens if a line breaks or a connection comes loose.)<br />
1. above is the usual cause by which activations occur. The human body, once the outer skin layers are penetrated, is very conductive and is quite capable of loading down the signal on the saw blade. A person does not need to be grounded to load down the signal.<br />
*'''Other sources of signal loss are due to blade contact with:'''<br />
'''BODIES OF METAL:<br />
# Metal sheeting such as Aluminum or copper<br />
# Grounded metal (i.e. the blade guard splitter, the riving knife, a metal jig, or a metal tape measure in contact with the table top.)<br />
# Relatively large masses of ungrounded metal, such as a tape measure not in contact with the table or a combination square or ruler)<br />
# Foil-backed insulation<br />
# Mirror-backed plastic (usually a metallic layer deposited onto the back of the plastic)<br />
#. Metallic paint layers (e.g. gold paint on picture frames)<br />
'''Other conductive materials:'''<br />
# Conductive laminate layers (some countertops have a foil layer behind the Formica)<br />
# Black melamine board that has carbon black in the melamine layer<br />
#Carbon composite materials (helicopter blades, ski poles, fishing poles, tennis racquets)<br />
# Electronic circuit boards (because of the conductive layers)<br />
# Cell phones (you might think it’s listed here just for humor value, but a shop student actually did run his cell phone into a saw to see what would happen)<br />
#Uncured glue layers (wet glue is a good electrical simulator of a person)<br />
# Wet pressure-treated materials (the metallic salt solutions use to treat the wood are quite conductive unless very dry)<br />
# Very wet wood (though usually the saw will try to shut down rather than activating the brake)<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=* Keep table clean, clear and dry<br />
* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
*If the brake trips Both the brake cartridge and Blade MUST be changed<br />
|FAQs=;What happens if the safety brake trips?<br />
The saw comes to an abrupt stop, loud noise, and the blade lowers as part of the energy absorption mechanics.<br />
;Is the brake cartride or blade reusable?<br />
No, the brake cartridge and saw blade are rendered unusable.<br />
;How much do the brake cartridges cost?<br />
$69 <br />
;How wet is wet ?<br />
Any wood that has been left outside exposed to the elements for an extended time.<br />
Green freshly cut wood.<br />
;Will this system prevent Kickback?<br />
NO, all normal kickback precautions must be taken<br />
|ToDos=* make cutting fixtures and storage for saw things<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Evan Allen<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
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|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/11/21<br />
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|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
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|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
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|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
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|UserName=Rob Stein<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
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|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
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}}{{Equipment User<br />
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|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
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}}{{Equipment User<br />
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|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
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}}{{Equipment User<br />
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|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
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}}{{Equipment User<br />
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|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
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}}{{Equipment User<br />
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|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/08/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Thomas Tufts<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/08/05<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2013/05/28<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2013/05/28<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Thomas Tusano<br />
|CertifiedDate=2018/03/29<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Konrad Brown<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Powermatic_14_inch_Bandsaw&diff=18539Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw2018-04-01T02:17:05Z<p>Gsmith: added Thomas as trainer</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw with 6 in Riser and Kreg precision rip fence<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=PwrMat_Bandsaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Powermatic PWBS14<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 140420023<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:PowerMatic_Band_Saw_Manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
* [[Media:Kregfence.pdf|Kreg precision fence manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Bandsaw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=The saw is particularly useful for cutting irregular or curved shapes, but can make straight cuts. The minimum radius of a curve that can be cut on a particular saw is determined by the width of the band and its kerf.<br />
|Rules='''[[Band Saw Insert Training]]''' is required for all users<br />
<br />
'''Authorization Required''' for machine adjustments and blade changes<br />
*For cutting wood or plastics, no metals<br />
* Read, understand and follow the safety instructions found in the manual<br />
* Keep fingers 3 inches from the blade<br />
* Do not cut wood that is not flat on the bottom, use a jig<br />
* Never clear small pieces while the blade is running<br />
* Do not push work with your thumbs.<br />
* Keep guards in place<br />
*Do not force the tool, it will do a better job at the rates it is designed for<br />
*Wear proper apparel, do not wear loose clothing or other items that may get caught. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.<br />
*Always wear Safety glasses.<br />
|Instructions=Plan your cuts before making them<br />
*Set Upper Blade guide assembly, raise or lower to just above the material being cut<br />
* make sure the Tension Adjustment lever is in the up position<br />
*Turn on the work light<br />
*Feed material only into the blade DO NOT BACK UP MATERIAL with the machine running or the blade will come loose from the guides. stop it first.<br />
*Feed work gently into the blade, do not force the work or bend the blade<br />
*In most situations a cutting line should be followed<br />
*Both hands should be used to feed the wood, and placed on opposite sides of the blade<br />
*A jig or clamp should be used to hold odd shaped or round pieces<br />
* Make through cuts or release cuts, if needed pretrial holes so that waste pieces can be removed<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=THE SAW:<br />
*Clean the tires when changing blades, use a scraper to clean gunk off the tire<br />
*Clean the table surface with table cleaning abrasive then coat with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"<br />
*Blow out the blade guide assemblies to clean out dust and debris.<br />
**CLEANING THE BLADE<br />
*De-tension the blade and remove from the saw<br />
*Coil the blade so it fits in the cleaning tub (located on top of wood shop cabinet)<br />
*Mix a solution of "Simple Green" or other degreaser about 50/50 and soak the blade in it for 45 min or until the gunk is somewhat loose<br />
*Using a BRASS brush clean the blade (not easy to do because you will probably need to uncoil the blade)<br />
*Rinse with water<br />
*Coat the blade with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"to prevent rusting.<br />
*Reinstall, re-tensio the blade align the blade on the tires and in the roller guides as one usually does when changing blades.<br />
|FAQs=*SAW MAKES UNSATISFACTORY CUTS<br />
**Dull Blade<br />
**Blade mounted Wrong<br />
**Gum or Pitch on blade<br />
**Incorrect blade for cut<br />
**Tension not set properly<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Kevin Flory<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Gardeski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Andy Hayden<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/03/31<br />
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|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
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|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
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|UserName=David Henry<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
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}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Leonard RH<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
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|UserName=Charlie Rysenga<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
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}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Jewell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
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|UserName=Cameron Geralds<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
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}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Slover<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Klein<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Terry Wynn<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/01/17<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Thomas Tusano<br />
|CertifiedDate=2018/03/29<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=SawStop_Table_Saw&diff=18538SawStop Table Saw2018-03-31T13:37:40Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=SawStop Table Saw<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=sawstoptablesaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=SawStop PCS31230-TPG236 10" Professional Cabinet Saw<br />
|PartNumber=S/N P131230787 Service Date 6-12-2013<br />
|StorageLocation=This table saw is located in the Wood Shop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:sawstop_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3mzhvMgrLE High speed video demonstration of SawStop brake in action]<br />
|Intro=For sawing wood.<br />
* Authorization Required for member or guest to Use this Tool Contact a Coordinator or trainer<br />
|Rules=*'''[[Wait until the blade stops moving before making adjustments or you will trip the brake]]'''<br />
*Training for Authorization is Required and is listed here: [[Wood Shop Training]]<br />
<br />
* Ripping kiln dried wood, cross cutting panels.<br />
*'''Do not cut metals, conductive materials, anything with carbon such as laser cut or engraved traces, black plastic or formica or melamine, green wood, wet wood. If in doubt contact a Woodshop Coordinator.'''<br />
*In the event of a flesh contact safety trip i3 will cover the brake cartridge cost, the member will pay for a new Saw Blade $100 range<br />
* Other trips, from unauthorized use or material, the member or guest replaces the brake and the blade Approx. $190<br />
*Either the saw safety guard or riving knife must always be used. Never make a cut with out this protection.<br />
*If using the riving knife, please remove it when you are done and reinstall the full blade guard.<br />
*After use if using an alternative blade (plywood) replace it with the Combination blade.<br />
*After use return the blade to its normal position "vertical" <br />
*The saw must be off and unplugged when changing the blade guard or riving knife and when making any internal adjustments<br />
*Do not set water or drink containers on the cast iron table<br />
*Please use the dust collector when sawing<br />
|Instructions=* Check the condition and location of the blade to assure it is correct for your cut, make sure the blade is clear.<br />
*To start the saw, first make sure the Start/Stop paddle is in the “OFF” position (i.e., pushed in) and then turn the main power switch to the “ON” position by flipping the toggle upward.<br />
*The saw control switch ( will start with green and blinking red) after which it will show a steady green light and red off indicating it is ok to start the motor.<br />
*To start the motor pull the start/stop paddle out. To stop the motor push the start/stop paddle in. The paddle is designed so that it can be pushed in by the operator's leg or knee in an emergency.<br />
*It is not necessary to turn off the main power switch after pushing in the Start/Stop paddle to turn off the motor. If you plan to make several cuts with the saw, you can leave the main power switch in the ON position between cuts to eliminate the delay due to the initialization routine. Once you have finished using the saw, turn the main power switch to OFF to reduce the likelihood of inadvertent start-up.<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
* Introduction to SAWSTOP, assumes knowledge of table saw general use. = [[media:SawStop_Introduction.pdf]]<br />
*Table saw basics class outline. [[media:Table_Saw_Basics.pdf ]]<br />
<br />
==Sawing off Book Bindings==<br />
<br />
*NEVER TRY SAWING OFF A BOOK BINDING THAT CONTAINS ANY TYPE OF METAL (e.g. staples), ALWAYS CAREFULLY INSPECT FIRST!<br />
*Although it can be done, it is not recommended. Book bindings often contain glue can heat up and mix with the shredded paper. This mix sticks to the other parts of the machine. Later on, other particles can attach and cause a malfunction.<br />
*After sawing, the mix of glue/paper must be carefully removed from all parts of the machine using a tool that won’t scratch any part of the machine, such as a thin piece of wood along with a soft brush. Make sure that both the internal and external parts of the machine where the saw dust may have gone are inspected and cleaned as needed.<br />
*When in doubt, ask the zone warden!<br />
<br />
== In Event of Emergency or Saw Safety Trip ==<br />
*Call 911 if you are hurt and do not move your work, we need to document any failure or accident, take pictures, call one of the wardens.<br />
* An accident report must be filled out.<br />
'''Do not try and repair or replace parts with-out Coordinator approval.'''<br />
== Saw Safety Trip Information ==<br />
*In general, the safety system acts in the following way:<br />
A small radio-frequency signal is coupled onto the blade by the brake cartridge via a signal line leading to the arbor. While the saw is running, the brake cartridge is also constantly monitoring this signal via a signal return line. If the signal level on the blade drops suddenly, the cartridge detects that drop, and activates the brake mechanism.<br />
*There are two ways to cause a signal drop:<br />
# Load the signal down by grounding it or absorbing it into a large conductive object, or<br />
# Interrupt the signal from the signal or return lines (this only happens if a line breaks or a connection comes loose.)<br />
1. above is the usual cause by which activations occur. The human body, once the outer skin layers are penetrated, is very conductive and is quite capable of loading down the signal on the saw blade. A person does not need to be grounded to load down the signal.<br />
*'''Other sources of signal loss are due to blade contact with:'''<br />
'''BODIES OF METAL:<br />
# Metal sheeting such as Aluminum or copper<br />
# Grounded metal (i.e. the blade guard splitter, the riving knife, a metal jig, or a metal tape measure in contact with the table top.)<br />
# Relatively large masses of ungrounded metal, such as a tape measure not in contact with the table or a combination square or ruler)<br />
# Foil-backed insulation<br />
# Mirror-backed plastic (usually a metallic layer deposited onto the back of the plastic)<br />
#. Metallic paint layers (e.g. gold paint on picture frames)<br />
'''Other conductive materials:'''<br />
# Conductive laminate layers (some countertops have a foil layer behind the Formica)<br />
# Black melamine board that has carbon black in the melamine layer<br />
#Carbon composite materials (helicopter blades, ski poles, fishing poles, tennis racquets)<br />
# Electronic circuit boards (because of the conductive layers)<br />
# Cell phones (you might think it’s listed here just for humor value, but a shop student actually did run his cell phone into a saw to see what would happen)<br />
#Uncured glue layers (wet glue is a good electrical simulator of a person)<br />
# Wet pressure-treated materials (the metallic salt solutions use to treat the wood are quite conductive unless very dry)<br />
# Very wet wood (though usually the saw will try to shut down rather than activating the brake)<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=* Keep table clean, clear and dry<br />
* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
*If the brake trips Both the brake cartridge and Blade MUST be changed<br />
|FAQs=;What happens if the safety brake trips?<br />
The saw comes to an abrupt stop, loud noise, and the blade lowers as part of the energy absorption mechanics.<br />
;Is the brake cartride or blade reusable?<br />
No, the brake cartridge and saw blade are rendered unusable.<br />
;How much do the brake cartridges cost?<br />
$69 <br />
;How wet is wet ?<br />
Any wood that has been left outside exposed to the elements for an extended time.<br />
Green freshly cut wood.<br />
;Will this system prevent Kickback?<br />
NO, all normal kickback precautions must be taken<br />
|ToDos=* make cutting fixtures and storage for saw things<br />
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}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=SawStop_Table_Saw&diff=18537SawStop Table Saw2018-03-31T13:35:06Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=SawStop Table Saw<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=sawstoptablesaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=SawStop PCS31230-TPG236 10" Professional Cabinet Saw<br />
|PartNumber=S/N P131230787 Service Date 6-12-2013<br />
|StorageLocation=This table saw is located in the Wood Shop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:sawstop_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3mzhvMgrLE High speed video demonstration of SawStop brake in action]<br />
|Intro=For sawing wood.<br />
* Authorization Required for member or guest to Use this Tool Contact a Coordinator or trainer<br />
|Rules=*'''[[Wait until the blade stops moving before making adjustments or you will trip the brake]]'''<br />
*Training for Authorization is Required and is listed here: [[Wood Shop Training]]<br />
<br />
* Ripping kiln dried wood, cross cutting panels.<br />
*'''Do not cut metals, conductive materials, anything with carbon such as laser cut or engraved traces, black plastic or formica or melamine, green wood, wet wood. If in doubt contact a Woodshop Coordinator.'''<br />
*In the event of a safety trip i3 will cover the brake cartridge cost, the member will pay for a new Saw Blade $100 range<br />
* Other trips, from unauthorized use or material, the member or guest replaces the brake and the blade Approx. $190<br />
*Either the saw safety guard or riving knife must always be used. Never make a cut with out this protection.<br />
*If using the riving knife, please remove it when you are done and reinstall the full blade guard.<br />
*After use if using an alternative blade (plywood) replace it with the Combination blade.<br />
*After use return the blade to its normal position "vertical" <br />
*The saw must be off and unplugged when changing the blade guard or riving knife and when making any internal adjustments<br />
*Do not set water or drink containers on the cast iron table<br />
*Please use the dust collector when sawing<br />
|Instructions=* Check the condition and location of the blade to assure it is correct for your cut, make sure the blade is clear.<br />
*To start the saw, first make sure the Start/Stop paddle is in the “OFF” position (i.e., pushed in) and then turn the main power switch to the “ON” position by flipping the toggle upward.<br />
*The saw control switch ( will start with green and blinking red) after which it will show a steady green light and red off indicating it is ok to start the motor.<br />
*To start the motor pull the start/stop paddle out. To stop the motor push the start/stop paddle in. The paddle is designed so that it can be pushed in by the operator's leg or knee in an emergency.<br />
*It is not necessary to turn off the main power switch after pushing in the Start/Stop paddle to turn off the motor. If you plan to make several cuts with the saw, you can leave the main power switch in the ON position between cuts to eliminate the delay due to the initialization routine. Once you have finished using the saw, turn the main power switch to OFF to reduce the likelihood of inadvertent start-up.<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
* Introduction to SAWSTOP, assumes knowledge of table saw general use. = [[media:SawStop_Introduction.pdf]]<br />
*Table saw basics class outline. [[media:Table_Saw_Basics.pdf ]]<br />
<br />
==Sawing off Book Bindings==<br />
<br />
*NEVER TRY SAWING OFF A BOOK BINDING THAT CONTAINS ANY TYPE OF METAL (e.g. staples), ALWAYS CAREFULLY INSPECT FIRST!<br />
*Although it can be done, it is not recommended. Book bindings often contain glue can heat up and mix with the shredded paper. This mix sticks to the other parts of the machine. Later on, other particles can attach and cause a malfunction.<br />
*After sawing, the mix of glue/paper must be carefully removed from all parts of the machine using a tool that won’t scratch any part of the machine, such as a thin piece of wood along with a soft brush. Make sure that both the internal and external parts of the machine where the saw dust may have gone are inspected and cleaned as needed.<br />
*When in doubt, ask the zone warden!<br />
<br />
== In Event of Emergency or Saw Safety Trip ==<br />
*Call 911 if you are hurt and do not move your work, we need to document any failure or accident, take pictures, call one of the wardens.<br />
* An accident report must be filled out.<br />
'''Do not try and repair or replace parts with-out Coordinator approval.'''<br />
== Saw Safety Trip Information ==<br />
*In general, the safety system acts in the following way:<br />
A small radio-frequency signal is coupled onto the blade by the brake cartridge via a signal line leading to the arbor. While the saw is running, the brake cartridge is also constantly monitoring this signal via a signal return line. If the signal level on the blade drops suddenly, the cartridge detects that drop, and activates the brake mechanism.<br />
*There are two ways to cause a signal drop:<br />
# Load the signal down by grounding it or absorbing it into a large conductive object, or<br />
# Interrupt the signal from the signal or return lines (this only happens if a line breaks or a connection comes loose.)<br />
1. above is the usual cause by which activations occur. The human body, once the outer skin layers are penetrated, is very conductive and is quite capable of loading down the signal on the saw blade. A person does not need to be grounded to load down the signal.<br />
*'''Other sources of signal loss are due to blade contact with:'''<br />
'''BODIES OF METAL:<br />
# Metal sheeting such as Aluminum or copper<br />
# Grounded metal (i.e. the blade guard splitter, the riving knife, a metal jig, or a metal tape measure in contact with the table top.)<br />
# Relatively large masses of ungrounded metal, such as a tape measure not in contact with the table or a combination square or ruler)<br />
# Foil-backed insulation<br />
# Mirror-backed plastic (usually a metallic layer deposited onto the back of the plastic)<br />
#. Metallic paint layers (e.g. gold paint on picture frames)<br />
'''Other conductive materials:'''<br />
# Conductive laminate layers (some countertops have a foil layer behind the Formica)<br />
# Black melamine board that has carbon black in the melamine layer<br />
#Carbon composite materials (helicopter blades, ski poles, fishing poles, tennis racquets)<br />
# Electronic circuit boards (because of the conductive layers)<br />
# Cell phones (you might think it’s listed here just for humor value, but a shop student actually did run his cell phone into a saw to see what would happen)<br />
#Uncured glue layers (wet glue is a good electrical simulator of a person)<br />
# Wet pressure-treated materials (the metallic salt solutions use to treat the wood are quite conductive unless very dry)<br />
# Very wet wood (though usually the saw will try to shut down rather than activating the brake)<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=* Keep table clean, clear and dry<br />
* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
*If the brake trips Both the brake cartridge and Blade MUST be changed<br />
|FAQs=;What happens if the safety brake trips?<br />
The saw comes to an abrupt stop, loud noise, and the blade lowers as part of the energy absorption mechanics.<br />
;Is the brake cartride or blade reusable?<br />
No, the brake cartridge and saw blade are rendered unusable.<br />
;How much do the brake cartridges cost?<br />
$69 <br />
;How wet is wet ?<br />
Any wood that has been left outside exposed to the elements for an extended time.<br />
Green freshly cut wood.<br />
;Will this system prevent Kickback?<br />
NO, all normal kickback precautions must be taken<br />
|ToDos=* make cutting fixtures and storage for saw things<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Evan Allen<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mark Ament<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/06/01<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Nickolas Anderson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=06/29/2013<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Jon Anderson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/12<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
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|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=06/13/2013<br />
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|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=06/18/2013<br />
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|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
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|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
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}}{{Equipment User<br />
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|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
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|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
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|TrainedBy=Konrad Brown<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Konrad Brown<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/12/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
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|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Sean Denny<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mike Fink<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
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|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/01/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=James Freed<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/01/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Gardeski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/01/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Cameron Geralds<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/12/16<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Aaron Greenwell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Leonard Kinnaird-Heether<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/12/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Amy Hang<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Ted Hansen<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/12/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Henry<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/11/07<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Richard Hillier<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=11/29/2016<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Huber<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Simon Hurst<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Thad Johnson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/07/17<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tom Kim<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/09/01<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Ron Knockeart<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/05/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Nick Kriete<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/23<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Keegan Kuvach<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/11<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Duran Mapson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/11/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Rocco Marras<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/08/01<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Collin Martel<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/07/17<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Steve Marlow<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tyler Marlow<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Colin Martin<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/11/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mark Metcalf<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/07/09<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mark Miles<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Charlie Mooney<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/01/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Zachary Nash<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/11/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Steve Nowicki<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/18<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=James O'Dell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Les Orchard<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Chris Orth<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Christine Osinski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/14<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Christopher Platzer<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Rich Points<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/02/21<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Charlie Rysenga<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Kirsten Schaefer<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/11/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Adam Scholl<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Steve Shmanske<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Slover<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/11/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Rob Stein<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/23<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=John Sugg<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Justin Triplett<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Nate W<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Nicole Weltman<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brian Wennberg<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Will Hinchman<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/02/28<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mary Hobart<br />
|TrainedBy=Thomas Tusano<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/03/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Patrick Irish<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/03/21<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Evan Parizot<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/05/16<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Sasha Brandt<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/06/27<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Adam Schrader<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/08/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Walker Archer<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/08/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Thomas Tufts<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/08/05<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2013/05/28<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2013/05/28<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Thomas Tusano<br />
|CertifiedDate=2018/03/29<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Konrad Brown<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Powermatic_Oscillating_Spindle_Sander&diff=17773Powermatic Oscillating Spindle Sander2018-02-24T01:29:38Z<p>Gsmith: status is down</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Powermatic Oscillating Spindle Sander<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=powermaticoscspinsand.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Powermatic 014<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 9814037<br />
|Date=2013<br />
|StorageLocation=This oscillating spindle sander is located on a rolling cart in the Wood Shop.<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=Down<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Powermatic_014_SANDER_2000.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Oscillating spindle sander consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=For shaping/sanding wood. A very versatile tool good for removing small amounts of material and splinters. Within limits (see below), plastic and aluminum can also be sanded.<br />
|Rules=* When sanding plastic, use the lightest possible pressure. Only do touch-up sanding, not bulk material removal. If the contact temperature gets hot enough to melt the plastic, solid plastic deposits will block the grit and the abrasive will be ruined. Make sure to clean all traces of plastic dust from the spindle when you are done. If you leave plastic dust on the spindle, it can melt and ruin the abrasive when the next user sands wood.<br />
* When sanding aluminum, use the lightest possible pressure. Only do touch-up sanding, not bulk material removal. Structural aluminum alloys are harder than the adhesive used to hold the grit to the paper. This means your aluminum workpiece is capable of scraping the grit off of the paper, which ruins the abrasive. <br />
* Don't sand or leave anything wet unless you meticulously clean up afterwards, the table will rust.<br />
|Instructions=* Let your workpiece touch the spindle and have the spindle do the work. If you have to use force to press your workpiece into the spindle, the abrasive is worn out (and unsafe).<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=* Periodically cleaning the abrasive with the big natural rubber stick extends the life of the spindle. <br />
** White plastic-sanding dust must be removed from the spindle as soon as possible.<br />
** Solid plastic deposits cannot be removed from the spindle with the big natural rubber stick; this just wastes rubber.<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_Drum_Sander&diff=17542Jet Drum Sander2018-01-16T23:47:03Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Augie Engelhart<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=drumsander.jpeg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet 16-32 Plus<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 150915533<br />
|Date=2016/03/05<br />
|StorageLocation=On a roll around cart in Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=$900<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Drumsande_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|Intro=* This machine is for use to sand unfinished wood only, No plastics or composites<br />
with all glue cleaned off the surface No paint<br />
|Rules=*'''Authorization is required to use this machine'''<br />
* Read and understand the entire machine manual before operating, this is required prior to authorization for use of this machine<br />
*'''Eye Safety''' is required to operate this machineAlways wear approved safety glasses<br />
*'''Personal Protection''' Remove ties rings and other jewelry, roll sleeves above the elbows, Remove all loose clothing, confine long hair<br />
*'''Ear Protection''' Wear ear protection during extended use<br />
*'''Maintenance''' Keep abrasives clean and know how to change the abrasive paper.<br />
|Instructions=*'''Material''' Maximum thickness 3 inches, Minimum thickness 1/32 with carrier<br />
* '''Inspect sanding drum''' to assure abrasive strip is correctly installed and the grit is adequate and in good shape clean with rubber cleaning stick if clogged.<br />
<br />
*'''Start Dust Collection System''' Connect Flex hose from North wall, open 4 inch blast gate and Start main system.<br />
* '''Set depth of cut''' A good rule of thumb when sanding is to lower the drum so it contacts the workpiece but drum can still be rotated by hand. NOTE: The use of a carrier or backer board, is recommended for cuts 1/16” or less. <br />
*'''Start Conveyor and select feed rate''' this is a complex process and can be read in detail on the manual<br />
*'''Start Drum''' Drum runs at a fixed speed and the switch is on the front of the conveyor control box.<br />
*'''Feed Stock'''When abrasive planing (or thickness sanding) a run of similar pieces that you want to have the same thickness, it is best to determine the thickness of the thinnest piece and process all pieces to that same thickness in one session. Be aware that the sander will remove cups and crowns in the workpiece; consider this when measuring and processing stock to the same thickness.<br />
*'''Check abrasive belt tension''' and retighten if needed<br />
===Instructional Videos===<br />
*'''General Info Video'''<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fkcI6s62E0<br />
<br />
*'''Tips on using the Sander video'''<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_E9sBZbD24&ebc<br />
<br />
*'''Changing Abrasive Belts''' (the machine shown is Super Max, similar to ours} just a little longer, same attachment<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5_GPFoZtXg<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Proper attachment of the abrasive strip to the drum is critical to achieving top performance from your drum sander. Abrasive strips do not have to be pre-measured. The end of the roll is first tapered and attached to the left (outboard) side of the drum. Then the strip is wrapped around the drum, and the second taper is made for attachment to the right (inboard) side of the drum<br />
*All abrasive strips will stretch in use and may stretch enough to allow the take-up lever to reach its lowest position so that it cannot maintain tension on the strip. If this occurs, follow the procedures to re-set the take- up lever..<br />
<br />
*1. Squeeze the fastener lever (Figure 11) on the outboard end of drum, and insert the tapered end of the abrasive so that it uses most of the width of the slot. Release the fastener lever to securely hold the strip end to the fastener.<br />
*2. Begin wrapping the strip around the drum. The tapered edge of the strip end should follow the edge of the drum.<br />
*3. Continue to wrap the abrasive in a spiral fashion by rotating the drum with one hand and guiding the strip with the other . Successive windings of the strip should be flush with previous windings without any overlap.<br />
*4. You can use your fingers to work the infeed take-up fastener, but it will be more convenient to use the TUFTool supplied with your sander. Hold the TUFTool with the red end pointing away from you and insert its hook into the outside hole of the fastener lever <br />
*5. Lift the lever with the TUFTool, pulling the lever up until it touches the inside of the drum.<br />
*6. Turn the TUFTool counterclockwise and lower it onto the abrasive strip, making sure it is holding the paper tight <br />
*7. Insert the tapered end of the abrasive strip into the slot and fastener. It may be necessary to trim the tapered end of the abrasive strip so that it does not “bottom out” against the inside of the drum.<br />
*8. Hold the abrasive in place with your left hand, lift up the TUFTool and turn it clockwise while maintaining upward pressure. Slowly move the TUFTool away from you slightly, then down, while easing it out of the hole. This releases the lever in its proper position <br />
*'''New and used but good abrasive rolls''' are stored in the drawers under the machine, please try and use the used rolls first, if they are no good or clogged, discard and use new.<br />
|ToDos=Add outfield tables<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Steve Nowicki<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/03/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Evan Allen<br />
|TrainedBy=Augie Engelhart<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/01/10<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2016/03/05<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Augie Engelhart<br />
|CertifiedDate=2017/08/15<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Steve Nowicki<br />
|CertifiedDate=2016/03/05<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
}<br />
}<br />
}<br />
}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_Drum_Sander&diff=17541Jet Drum Sander2018-01-16T23:45:50Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Augie Engelhart<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=drumsander.jpeg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet 16-32 Plus<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 150915533<br />
|Date=2016/03/05<br />
|StorageLocation=On a roll around cart in Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=$900<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Drumsande_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|Intro=* This machine is for use to sand unfinished wood only, No plastics or composites<br />
with all glue cleaned off the surface<br />
|Rules=*'''Authorization is required to use this machine'''<br />
* Read and understand the entire machine manual before operating, this is required prior to authorization for use of this machine<br />
*'''Eye Safety''' is required to operate this machineAlways wear approved safety glasses<br />
*'''Personal Protection''' Remove ties rings and other jewelry, roll sleeves above the elbows, Remove all loose clothing, confine long hair<br />
*'''Ear Protection''' Wear ear protection during extended use<br />
*'''Maintenance''' Keep abrasives clean and know how to change the abrasive paper.<br />
|Instructions=*'''Material''' Maximum thickness 3 inches, Minimum thickness 1/32 with carrier<br />
* '''Inspect sanding drum''' to assure abrasive strip is correctly installed and the grit is adequate and in good shape clean with rubber cleaning stick if clogged.<br />
<br />
*'''Start Dust Collection System''' Connect Flex hose from North wall, open 4 inch blast gate and Start main system.<br />
* '''Set depth of cut''' A good rule of thumb when sanding is to lower the drum so it contacts the workpiece but drum can still be rotated by hand. NOTE: The use of a carrier or backer board, is recommended for cuts 1/16” or less. <br />
*'''Start Conveyor and select feed rate''' this is a complex process and can be read in detail on the manual<br />
*'''Start Drum''' Drum runs at a fixed speed and the switch is on the front of the conveyor control box.<br />
*'''Feed Stock'''When abrasive planing (or thickness sanding) a run of similar pieces that you want to have the same thickness, it is best to determine the thickness of the thinnest piece and process all pieces to that same thickness in one session. Be aware that the sander will remove cups and crowns in the workpiece; consider this when measuring and processing stock to the same thickness.<br />
*'''Check abrasive belt tension''' and retighten if needed<br />
===Instructional Videos===<br />
*'''General Info Video'''<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fkcI6s62E0<br />
<br />
*'''Tips on using the Sander video'''<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_E9sBZbD24&ebc<br />
<br />
*'''Changing Abrasive Belts''' (the machine shown is Super Max, similar to ours} just a little longer, same attachment<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5_GPFoZtXg<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Proper attachment of the abrasive strip to the drum is critical to achieving top performance from your drum sander. Abrasive strips do not have to be pre-measured. The end of the roll is first tapered and attached to the left (outboard) side of the drum. Then the strip is wrapped around the drum, and the second taper is made for attachment to the right (inboard) side of the drum<br />
*All abrasive strips will stretch in use and may stretch enough to allow the take-up lever to reach its lowest position so that it cannot maintain tension on the strip. If this occurs, follow the procedures to re-set the take- up lever..<br />
<br />
*1. Squeeze the fastener lever (Figure 11) on the outboard end of drum, and insert the tapered end of the abrasive so that it uses most of the width of the slot. Release the fastener lever to securely hold the strip end to the fastener.<br />
*2. Begin wrapping the strip around the drum. The tapered edge of the strip end should follow the edge of the drum.<br />
*3. Continue to wrap the abrasive in a spiral fashion by rotating the drum with one hand and guiding the strip with the other . Successive windings of the strip should be flush with previous windings without any overlap.<br />
*4. You can use your fingers to work the infeed take-up fastener, but it will be more convenient to use the TUFTool supplied with your sander. Hold the TUFTool with the red end pointing away from you and insert its hook into the outside hole of the fastener lever <br />
*5. Lift the lever with the TUFTool, pulling the lever up until it touches the inside of the drum.<br />
*6. Turn the TUFTool counterclockwise and lower it onto the abrasive strip, making sure it is holding the paper tight <br />
*7. Insert the tapered end of the abrasive strip into the slot and fastener. It may be necessary to trim the tapered end of the abrasive strip so that it does not “bottom out” against the inside of the drum.<br />
*8. Hold the abrasive in place with your left hand, lift up the TUFTool and turn it clockwise while maintaining upward pressure. Slowly move the TUFTool away from you slightly, then down, while easing it out of the hole. This releases the lever in its proper position <br />
*'''New and used but good abrasive rolls''' are stored in the drawers under the machine, please try and use the used rolls first, if they are no good or clogged, discard and use new.<br />
|ToDos=Add outfield tables<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Steve Nowicki<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/03/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Evan Allen<br />
|TrainedBy=Augie Engelhart<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/01/10<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2016/03/05<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Augie Engelhart<br />
|CertifiedDate=2017/08/15<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Steve Nowicki<br />
|CertifiedDate=2016/03/05<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
}<br />
}<br />
}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_Drum_Sander&diff=17540Jet Drum Sander2018-01-16T23:44:27Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Augie Engelhart<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=drumsander.jpeg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet 16-32 Plus<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 150915533<br />
|Date=2016/03/05<br />
|StorageLocation=On a roll around cart in Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=$900<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Drumsande_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|Intro=* This machine is for use to sand unfinished wood only, No plastics or composites<br />
with all glue cleaned off the surface<br />
|Rules=*'''Authorization is required to use this machine'''<br />
* Read and understand the entire machine manual before operating, this is required prior to authorization for use of this machine<br />
*'''Eye Safety''' is required to operate this machineAlways wear approved safety glasses<br />
*'''Personal Protection''' Remove ties rings and other jewelry, roll sleeves above the elbows, Remove all loose clothing, confine long hair<br />
*'''Ear Protection''' Wear ear protection during extended use<br />
*'''Maintenance''' Keep abrasives clean and know how to change the abrasive paper.<br />
|Instructions=*'''Material''' Maximum thickness 3 inches, Minimum thickness 1/32 with carrier<br />
* '''Inspect sanding drum''' to assure abrasive strip is correctly installed and the grit is adequate and in good shape clean with rubber cleaning stick if clogged.<br />
<br />
*'''Start Dust Collection System''' Connect Flex hose from North wall, open 4 inch blast gate and Start main system.<br />
* '''Set depth of cut''' A good rule of thumb when sanding is to lower the drum so it contacts the workpiece but drum can still be rotated by hand. NOTE: The use of a carrier or backer board, is recommended for cuts 1/16” or less. <br />
*'''Start Conveyor and select feed rate''' this is a complex process and can be read in detail on the manual<br />
*'''Start Drum''' Drum runs at a fixed speed and the switch is on the front of the conveyor control box.<br />
*'''Feed Stock'''When abrasive planing (or thickness sanding) a run of similar pieces that you want to have the same thickness, it is best to determine the thickness of the thinnest piece and process all pieces to that same thickness in one session. Be aware that the sander will remove cups and crowns in the workpiece; consider this when measuring and processing stock to the same thickness.<br />
*'''Check abrasive belt tension''' and retighten if needed<br />
===Instructional Videos===<br />
*'''General Info Video'''<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fkcI6s62E0<br />
<br />
*'''Tips on using the Sander video'''<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_E9sBZbD24&ebc<br />
<br />
*'''Changing Abrasive Belts''' (the machine shown is Super Max, similar to ours} just a little longer, same attachment<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5_GPFoZtXg<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Proper attachment of the abrasive strip to the drum is critical to achieving top performance from your drum sander. Abrasive strips do not have to be pre-measured. The end of the roll is first tapered and attached to the left (outboard) side of the drum. Then the strip is wrapped around the drum, and the second taper is made for attachment to the right (inboard) side of the drum<br />
*All abrasive strips will stretch in use and may stretch enough to allow the take-up lever to reach its lowest position so that it cannot maintain tension on the strip. If this occurs, follow the procedures to re-set the take- up lever..<br />
<br />
*1. Squeeze the fastener lever (Figure 11) on the outboard end of drum, and insert the tapered end of the abrasive so that it uses most of the width of the slot. Release the fastener lever to securely hold the strip end to the fastener.<br />
*2. Begin wrapping the strip around the drum. The tapered edge of the strip end should follow the edge of the drum.<br />
*3. Continue to wrap the abrasive in a spiral fashion by rotating the drum with one hand and guiding the strip with the other . Successive windings of the strip should be flush with previous windings without any overlap.<br />
*4. You can use your fingers to work the infeed take-up fastener, but it will be more convenient to use the TUFTool supplied with your sander. Hold the TUFTool with the red end pointing away from you and insert its hook into the outside hole of the fastener lever <br />
*5. Lift the lever with the TUFTool, pulling the lever up until it touches the inside of the drum.<br />
*6. Turn the TUFTool counterclockwise and lower it onto the abrasive strip, making sure it is holding the paper tight <br />
*7. Insert the tapered end of the abrasive strip into the slot and fastener. It may be necessary to trim the tapered end of the abrasive strip so that it does not “bottom out” against the inside of the drum.<br />
*8. Hold the abrasive in place with your left hand, lift up the TUFTool and turn it clockwise while maintaining upward pressure. Slowly move the TUFTool away from you slightly, then down, while easing it out of the hole. This releases the lever in its proper position <br />
*'''New and used but good abrasive rolls''' are stored in the drawers under the machine, please try and use the used rolls first, if they are no good or clogged, discard and use new.<br />
|ToDos=Add outfield tables<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Steve Nowicki<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/03/05<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2016/03/05<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Augie Engelhart<br />
|CertifiedDate=2017/08/15<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Steve Nowicki<br />
|CertifiedDate=2016/03/05<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
}<br />
}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Powermatic_14_inch_Bandsaw&diff=17539Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw2018-01-16T23:32:42Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Powermatic 14 inch Bandsaw with 6 in Riser and Kreg precision rip fence<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=PwrMat_Bandsaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Powermatic PWBS14<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 140420023<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:PowerMatic_Band_Saw_Manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
* [[Media:Kregfence.pdf|Kreg precision fence manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Bandsaw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=The saw is particularly useful for cutting irregular or curved shapes, but can make straight cuts. The minimum radius of a curve that can be cut on a particular saw is determined by the width of the band and its kerf.<br />
|Rules='''[[Band Saw Insert Training]]''' is required for all users<br />
<br />
'''Authorization Required''' for machine adjustments and blade changes<br />
*For cutting wood or plastics, no metals<br />
* Read, understand and follow the safety instructions found in the manual<br />
* Keep fingers 3 inches from the blade<br />
* Do not cut wood that is not flat on the bottom, use a jig<br />
* Never clear small pieces while the blade is running<br />
* Do not push work with your thumbs.<br />
* Keep guards in place<br />
*Do not force the tool, it will do a better job at the rates it is designed for<br />
*Wear proper apparel, do not wear loose clothing or other items that may get caught. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.<br />
*Always wear Safety glasses.<br />
|Instructions=Plan your cuts before making them<br />
*Set Upper Blade guide assembly, raise or lower to just above the material being cut<br />
* make sure the Tension Adjustment lever is in the up position<br />
*Turn on the work light<br />
*Feed material only into the blade DO NOT BACK UP MATERIAL with the machine running or the blade will come loose from the guides. stop it first.<br />
*Feed work gently into the blade, do not force the work or bend the blade<br />
*In most situations a cutting line should be followed<br />
*Both hands should be used to feed the wood, and placed on opposite sides of the blade<br />
*A jig or clamp should be used to hold odd shaped or round pieces<br />
* Make through cuts or release cuts, if needed pretrial holes so that waste pieces can be removed<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=THE SAW:<br />
*Clean the tires when changing blades, use a scraper to clean gunk off the tire<br />
*Clean the table surface with table cleaning abrasive then coat with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"<br />
*Blow out the blade guide assemblies to clean out dust and debris.<br />
**CLEANING THE BLADE<br />
*De-tension the blade and remove from the saw<br />
*Coil the blade so it fits in the cleaning tub (located on top of wood shop cabinet)<br />
*Mix a solution of "Simple Green" or other degreaser about 50/50 and soak the blade in it for 45 min or until the gunk is somewhat loose<br />
*Using a BRASS brush clean the blade (not easy to do because you will probably need to uncoil the blade)<br />
*Rinse with water<br />
*Coat the blade with surface protectorate like "Glidecoat"to prevent rusting.<br />
*Reinstall, re-tensio the blade align the blade on the tires and in the roller guides as one usually does when changing blades.<br />
|FAQs=*SAW MAKES UNSATISFACTORY CUTS<br />
**Dull Blade<br />
**Blade mounted Wrong<br />
**Gum or Pitch on blade<br />
**Incorrect blade for cut<br />
**Tension not set properly<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Kevin Flory<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Gardeski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Adam Scholl<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Levi Morey<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brian McPherson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=William Cunningham<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Henry<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Leonard RH<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Charlie Rysenga<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Jewell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Cameron Geralds<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Slover<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Klein<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Terry Wynn<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2018/01/17<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/01<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Skil_Scroll_Saw&diff=17303Skil Scroll Saw2017-12-19T03:50:33Z<p>Gsmith: removed from service</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Skil Scroll Saw<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=Skilscrollsaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit,<br />
|MakeModel=Skil 3330<br />
|PartNumber=S/N TUV2<br />
|StorageLocation=This scroll saw is located in the north end of the wood shop.<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=Departed<br />
|Intro=With todays laser cutters the need for an intricate tool like this is not used much and is hard to maintain<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_Jointer&diff=16974Jet Jointer2017-11-07T23:27:03Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Jet 6 inch Jointer<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=jetjointer.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet JJ-6CSX<br />
|PartNumber=1415297<br />
|Date=2015/06/29<br />
|StorageLocation=The jointer should be stored in the Wood Shop. It is on a wheeled base so it can be rolled out to provide clearance for working with long boards.<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=1500<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Jet_Jointer_Manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=Add links to any other sources that pertain to this equipment.<br />
|Intro=A jointer is used to create a straight surface on a wooden board.<br />
*'''This unit is equipped with a SHELIX Spiral carbide Cutting Head'''<br />
|Rules=* Read and understand the entire owner's manual before attempting operation.<br />
*Read and understand the warnings posted on the machine and in this manual. Failure to comply with all of these warnings may cause serious injury.<br />
*Always wear approved safety glasses/face shields while using this woodworking jointer. Everyday eyeglasses only have impact resistant lenses; they are not safety glasses.<br />
*Before operating this woodworking jointer, remove tie, rings, watches and other jewelry, and roll sleeves up past the elbows. Remove all loose clothing and confine long hair. Non-slip footwear or anti-skid floor strips are recommended. Do not wear gloves.<br />
*Keep safety guards in place at all times when the machine is in use. If removed for maintenance purposes, use extreme caution and replace the guards immediately.<br />
*To prevent nicks on the blades, please check your board carefully and remove nails, screws, and any other metal bits.<br />
* Work with pure wood only, please! NO Masonite, composites, plywood, or plastics <br />
* '''DO NOT adjust the outfeed table''' except when changing blades! if you check them and find they are out of adjustment, contact the zone warden or equipment trainer, they will advise what action you should take.<br />
*At all times hold the stock firmly. Always use a hold-down or push block when surfacing stock less than 12 inches long, or 3 inches wide, or 3 inches thick.<br />
*Do not perform jointing operations on material shorter than 8", narrower than 3/4" or less than 1/4" thick.<br />
*The hands must never be closer than 3 inches to the cutterhead.<br />
* maximum cut depth is 1/8 inch. <br />
*This tool can no longer be used for rabbit joints<br />
* Always use Push Blocks<br />
* Is there any traning required before use?<br />
|Instructions=*Connect the 4 inch dust collector hose<br />
*Make sure the infeed table is adjusted correctly<br />
*To avoid kickback, the grain must run in the same direction you are cutting. Before attempting to joint, or plane, each work piece must be carefully examined for stock condition and grain orientation<br />
*Never pass the hands directly over the cutter knife<br />
*The cutterhead guard must be in place and operating properly <br />
*Turn it On<br />
*Stand away from the cutterhead and turn the machine on for a few moments. Listen for any odd noises, rubbings, vibrations, etc. Correct such problems before attempting operations on the jointer.<br />
*The power switch is located on the front of the base.<br />
*Carefully check your workpiece for knots, holes, staples or any foreign material that might damage knives or pose a risk of kickback. Also check the workpiece for grain orientation.<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Keep the infeed and outfeed tables clean and rust free<br />
Do not adjust or replace carbide cutter without Wood Shop Coordinator approval<br />
}}<br />
{{Ambox<br />
<br />
<br />
| text =</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_15_inch_planer&diff=16973Jet 15 inch planer2017-11-07T23:25:59Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Jet 15 inch helical carbide cutter planer<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=15_inch_planer.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet 708543, JWP 15HH<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 17081269<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=no<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=$2,650<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Jet_15_inch_planer_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
*<br />
|OtherReferences=* Planer consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=This thickness planer is for use with kiln dried wood only and will create parallel top and bottom surfaces<br />
<br />
|Rules='''[[Use only kiln dried wood, not plywood, composites or plastics]]''' is required for all users<br />
<br />
'''Authorization Required''' for machine adjustments and blade changes<br />
*For cutting wood or plastics, no metals<br />
* Read, understand and follow the safety instructions found in the manual<br />
* Keep fingers 6 inches from the blade<br />
* Never clear small pieces while the blade is running<br />
* Use push paddles, Do not push work with your hands.<br />
* Keep guards in place<br />
*Do not force the tool, it will do a better job at the rates it is designed for<br />
*Wear proper apparel, do not wear loose clothing or other items that may get caught. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.<br />
*Always wear Safety glasses.<br />
|Instructions=Plan your cuts before making them<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Before doing maintenance on the machine, disconnect it from the electrical supply by pulling out the plug or switching off the main switch!<br />
The table should be kept clean and free of rust.<br />
The lubricant in the gear box must be drained and replaced every 2,500 hours. Multi-purpose gear box lubricant will be suitable.<br />
|FAQs=*Planer snipe - Table rollers not set, Inadequate support of long boards, Uneven feed roller pressure<br />
*Infeed and outfield not set<br />
*Poor feeding of lumber - planer table dirty, V belt sipping<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2017/10/05<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{Equipment Access<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_15_inch_planer&diff=16972Jet 15 inch planer2017-11-07T23:25:34Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Jet 15 inch helical carbide cutter planer<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=15_inch_planer.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet 708543, JWP 15HH<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 17081269<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=no<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Value=$2,650<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Jet_15_inch_planer_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
*<br />
|OtherReferences=* Planer consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=This thickness planer is for use with kiln dried wood only and will create parallel top and bottom surfaces<br />
*'''[[This page is under Construction]]'''<br />
|Rules='''[[Use only kiln dried wood, not plywood, composites or plastics]]''' is required for all users<br />
<br />
'''Authorization Required''' for machine adjustments and blade changes<br />
*For cutting wood or plastics, no metals<br />
* Read, understand and follow the safety instructions found in the manual<br />
* Keep fingers 6 inches from the blade<br />
* Never clear small pieces while the blade is running<br />
* Use push paddles, Do not push work with your hands.<br />
* Keep guards in place<br />
*Do not force the tool, it will do a better job at the rates it is designed for<br />
*Wear proper apparel, do not wear loose clothing or other items that may get caught. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.<br />
*Always wear Safety glasses.<br />
|Instructions=Plan your cuts before making them<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Before doing maintenance on the machine, disconnect it from the electrical supply by pulling out the plug or switching off the main switch!<br />
The table should be kept clean and free of rust.<br />
The lubricant in the gear box must be drained and replaced every 2,500 hours. Multi-purpose gear box lubricant will be suitable.<br />
|FAQs=*Planer snipe - Table rollers not set, Inadequate support of long boards, Uneven feed roller pressure<br />
*Infeed and outfield not set<br />
*Poor feeding of lumber - planer table dirty, V belt sipping<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2017/10/05<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{Equipment Access<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Minutes:Meeting_Minutes_20171107&diff=16949Minutes:Meeting Minutes 201711072017-11-06T13:01:55Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>=Agenda for [[Meeting Date::11-07-2017]]=<br />
'''Chair: TBD'''<br />
<br />
==Introductions==<br />
====Experienced Members====<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
====New Members & Guests====<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
==Show and Tell==<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
==Old Business==<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
==New Business==<br />
===Announcements===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Proposals===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
==Zone updates==<br />
<br />
===Bicycle Shop===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Classroom===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===CNC Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Commons Area===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Compute Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Craft Room===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Electronics Lab===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Fab Lab===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Graveyard===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Infrastructure===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Injection Molding===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Jewelry Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Kiln Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Laser Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Leather Loft===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Machine Shop===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Media Lab===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Sky Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Tool Crib===<br />
* Tool Crib needs money in collection box for fasteners, please contribute when using Tool Crib consumables.<br />
<br />
===Tree House===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Vinyl Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Welding Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Wiki===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Wood Shop===<br />
*The planer and jointer which have been out of commission for a while are back in service, a short demo will be given after the meeting for those interested<br />
<br />
==Space Project Updates==<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
==SIGs==<br />
===i3 DetroitSat===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===i3 MotorSports===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===HAM===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Letterpress===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Sewing===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
= COWBELL =<br />
<br />
==Broom Party==<br />
<br />
==Lost & Found Party==<br />
<br />
<br />
=Meeting Metrics=<br />
<!-- Need to fill out these manually --><br />
* Time completed:<br />
* Attendees:<br />
<br />
==Action Item Summary==<br />
<!-- Semantic MediaWiki Query to collect all action items created with the Action Item Template --><br />
<!-- Example of Action Item Template: {{Action Item|Jamie|Make example action item}} --><br />
<br />
{{#ask: [[-Has subobject::{{FULLPAGENAME}}]] [[POC::+]]<br />
| ?Task = Action Item<br />
| ?POC = POC<br />
| default = No action items.<br />
| mainlabel = -<br />
| headers = plain<br />
| link = none<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==Proposal Summary==<br />
<!-- Semantic MediaWiki Query to collect all action items created with the Proposal Template --><br />
<!-- Example of Proposal Template: {{Proposal|Jamie|Matt|Change the rules to do something new|5|2|PASS}} --><br />
<br />
{{#ask: [[-Has subobject::{{FULLPAGENAME}}]] [[Mover::+]]<br />
| ?Description=Proposal<br />
| ?Mover=Moved By<br />
| ?Second=Seconded By<br />
| ?Aye=Aye<br />
| ?Nay=Nay<br />
| ?Result=Result<br />
| default = No proposals.<br />
| mainlabel = -<br />
| headers = plain<br />
| link = none<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==Attendance==<br />
# Chair<br />
# Secretary<br />
<br />
[[Category:Meeting Minutes]]</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=SawStop_Table_Saw&diff=16857SawStop Table Saw2017-10-26T20:28:05Z<p>Gsmith: minor update</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=SawStop Table Saw<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=sawstoptablesaw.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=SawStop PCS31230-TPG236 10" Professional Cabinet Saw<br />
|PartNumber=S/N P131230787 Service Date 6-12-2013<br />
|StorageLocation=This table saw is located in the Wood Shop<br />
|Authorization Required=Yes<br />
|Status=Running<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:sawstop_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3mzhvMgrLE High speed video demonstration of SawStop brake in action]<br />
|Intro=For sawing wood.<br />
* Authorization Required for member or guest to Use this Tool Contact a Coordinator or trainer<br />
|Rules=*'''[[Wait until the blade stops moving before making adjustments or you will trip the brake]]'''<br />
*Training for Authorization is Required and is listed here: [[Wood Shop Training]]<br />
<br />
* Ripping kiln dried wood, cross cutting panels.<br />
*'''Do not cut metals, conductive materials, anything with carbon such as laser cut or engraved traces, black plastic or formica or melamine, green wood, wet wood. If in doubt contact a Woodshop Coordinator.'''<br />
*In the event of a safety trip i3 will cover the brake cartridge cost, the member will pay for a new Saw Blade $100 range<br />
* Other trips, from unauthorized use or material, the member or guest replaces the brake and the blade Approx. $190<br />
*Either the saw safety guard or riving knife must always be used. Never make a cut with out this protection.<br />
*If using the riving knife, please remove it when you are done and reinstall the full blade guard.<br />
*After use if using an alternative blade (plywood) replace it with the Combination blade.<br />
*After use return the blade to its normal position "vertical" <br />
*The saw must be off and unplugged when changing the blade guard or riving knife and when making any internal adjustments<br />
*Do not set water or drink containers on the cast iron table<br />
*Please use the dust collector when sawing<br />
|Instructions=* Check the condition and location of the blade to assure it is correct for your cut, make sure the blade is clear.<br />
*To start the saw, first make sure the Start/Stop paddle is in the “OFF” position (i.e., pushed in) and then turn the main power switch to the “ON” position by flipping the toggle upward.<br />
*The saw control switch ( will start with green and blinking red) after which it will show a steady green light and red off indicating it is ok to start the motor.<br />
*To start the motor pull the start/stop paddle out. To stop the motor push the start/stop paddle in. The paddle is designed so that it can be pushed in by the operator's leg or knee in an emergency.<br />
*It is not necessary to turn off the main power switch after pushing in the Start/Stop paddle to turn off the motor. If you plan to make several cuts with the saw, you can leave the main power switch in the ON position between cuts to eliminate the delay due to the initialization routine. Once you have finished using the saw, turn the main power switch to OFF to reduce the likelihood of inadvertent start-up.<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
* Introduction to SAWSTOP, assumes knowledge of table saw general use. = [[media:SawStop_Introduction.pdf]]<br />
*Table saw basics class outline. [[media:Table_Saw_Basics.pdf ]]<br />
<br />
==Sawing off Book Bindings==<br />
<br />
*NEVER TRY SAWING OFF A BOOK BINDING THAT CONTAINS ANY TYPE OF METAL (e.g. staples), ALWAYS CAREFULLY INSPECT FIRST!<br />
*Although it can be done, it is not recommended. Book bindings often contain glue can heat up and mix with the shredded paper. This mix sticks to the other parts of the machine. Later on, other particles can attach and cause a malfunction.<br />
*After sawing, the mix of glue/paper must be carefully removed from all parts of the machine using a tool that won’t scratch any part of the machine, such as a thin piece of wood along with a soft brush. Make sure that both the internal and external parts of the machine where the saw dust may have gone are inspected and cleaned as needed.<br />
*When in doubt, ask the zone warden!<br />
<br />
== In Event of Emergency or Saw Safety Trip ==<br />
*Call 911 if you are hurt and do not move your work, we need to document any failure or accident, take pictures, call one of the wardens.<br />
* An accident report must be filled out.<br />
'''Do not try and repair or replace parts with-out Coordinator approval.'''<br />
== Saw Safety Trip Information ==<br />
*In general, the safety system acts in the following way:<br />
A small radio-frequency signal is coupled onto the blade by the brake cartridge via a signal line leading to the arbor. While the saw is running, the brake cartridge is also constantly monitoring this signal via a signal return line. If the signal level on the blade drops suddenly, the cartridge detects that drop, and activates the brake mechanism.<br />
*There are two ways to cause a signal drop:<br />
# Load the signal down by grounding it or absorbing it into a large conductive object, or<br />
# Interrupt the signal from the signal or return lines (this only happens if a line breaks or a connection comes loose.)<br />
1. above is the usual cause by which activations occur. The human body, once the outer skin layers are penetrated, is very conductive and is quite capable of loading down the signal on the saw blade. A person does not need to be grounded to load down the signal.<br />
*'''Other sources of signal loss are due to blade contact with:'''<br />
'''BODIES OF METAL:<br />
# Metal sheeting such as Aluminum or copper<br />
# Grounded metal (i.e. the blade guard splitter, the riving knife, a metal jig, or a metal tape measure in contact with the table top.)<br />
# Relatively large masses of ungrounded metal, such as a tape measure not in contact with the table or a combination square or ruler)<br />
# Foil-backed insulation<br />
# Mirror-backed plastic (usually a metallic layer deposited onto the back of the plastic)<br />
#. Metallic paint layers (e.g. gold paint on picture frames)<br />
'''Other conductive materials:'''<br />
# Conductive laminate layers (some countertops have a foil layer behind the Formica)<br />
# Black melamine board that has carbon black in the melamine layer<br />
#Carbon composite materials (helicopter blades, ski poles, fishing poles, tennis racquets)<br />
# Electronic circuit boards (because of the conductive layers)<br />
# Cell phones (you might think it’s listed here just for humor value, but a shop student actually did run his cell phone into a saw to see what would happen)<br />
#Uncured glue layers (wet glue is a good electrical simulator of a person)<br />
# Wet pressure-treated materials (the metallic salt solutions use to treat the wood are quite conductive unless very dry)<br />
# Very wet wood (though usually the saw will try to shut down rather than activating the brake)<br />
<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=* Keep table clean, clear and dry<br />
* SawStop table saw consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
*If the brake trips Both the brake cartridge and Blade MUST be changed<br />
|FAQs=;What happens if the safety brake trips?<br />
The saw comes to an abrupt stop, loud noise, and the blade lowers as part of the energy absorption mechanics.<br />
;Is the brake cartride or blade reusable?<br />
No, the brake cartridge and saw blade are rendered unusable.<br />
;How much do the brake cartridges cost?<br />
$69 <br />
;How wet is wet ?<br />
Any wood that has been left outside exposed to the elements for an extended time.<br />
Green freshly cut wood.<br />
;Will this system prevent Kickback?<br />
NO, all normal kickback precautions must be taken<br />
|ToDos=* make cutting fixtures and storage for saw things<br />
|Equipment User={{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Evan Allen<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mark Ament<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/06/01<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Nickolas Anderson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=06/29/2013<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Jon Anderson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/12<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=John Anderson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=06/13/2013<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Ryan Ball<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=06/18/2013<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Cody Barz<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/12/16<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Joseph Bauman<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/11/21<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Kevin Bessemer<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brandon Chase<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brandon Biller<br />
|TrainedBy=Konrad Brown<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Konrad Brown<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/12/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Shadow Daiz<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Sean Denny<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mike Fink<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Fai Foen<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/01/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=James Freed<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/01/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Gardeski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/01/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Cameron Geralds<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/12/16<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Aaron Greenwell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Leonard Kinnaird-Heether<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/12/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Amy Hang<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Ted Hansen<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/12/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=David Henry<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/11/07<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Richard Hillier<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=11/29/2016<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Matt Huber<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Simon Hurst<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Thad Johnson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/07/17<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tom Kim<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/09/01<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Ron Knockeart<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/05/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Nick Kriete<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/23<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Keegan Kuvach<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/11<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Duran Mapson<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/11/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Rocco Marras<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/08/01<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Collin Martel<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/07/17<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Steve Marlow<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tyler Marlow<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Colin Martin<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/11/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mark Metcalf<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/07/09<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Mark Miles<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Charlie Mooney<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/01/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Zachary Nash<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/11/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Steve Nowicki<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/18<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=James O'Dell<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/02/22<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Les Orchard<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/01/03<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Chris Orth<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Christine Osinski<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/14<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Christopher Platzer<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Rich Points<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/02/21<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Charlie Rysenga<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Kirsten Schaefer<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/11/25<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Adam Scholl<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Steve Shmanske<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Tony Slover<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2016/11/15<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Rob Stein<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/23<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=John Sugg<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Justin Triplett<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Nate W<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2014/10/29<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Nicole Weltman<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2015/03/26<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Brian Wennberg<br />
|TrainedBy=Greg Smith<br />
|TrainedDate=2013/06/13<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Will Hinchman<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/02/28<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Patrick Irish<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/03/21<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Evan Parizot<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/05/16<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Sasha Brandt<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/06/27<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Adam Schrader<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/08/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Walker Archer<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/08/05<br />
}}{{Equipment User<br />
|UserName=Thomas Tufts<br />
|TrainedBy=Dave Scholl<br />
|TrainedDate=2017/08/05<br />
}}<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2013/05/28<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Dave Scholl<br />
|CertifiedDate=2013/05/28<br />
}}{{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Konrad Brown<br />
|CertifiedDate=2015/01/06<br />
}}<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_15_inch_planer&diff=16856Jet 15 inch planer2017-10-26T20:15:24Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Jet 15 inch helical carbide cutter planer<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=15_inch_planer.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet 708543, JWP 15HH<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 17081269<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=no<br />
|Status=Not installed<br />
|Value=$2,650<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Jet_15_inch_planer_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
*<br />
|OtherReferences=* Planer consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=This thickness planer is for use with kiln dried wood only and will create parallel top and bottom surfaces<br />
*'''[[This page is under Construction]]'''<br />
|Rules='''[[Use only kiln dried wood, not plywood, composites or plastics]]''' is required for all users<br />
<br />
'''Authorization Required''' for machine adjustments and blade changes<br />
*For cutting wood or plastics, no metals<br />
* Read, understand and follow the safety instructions found in the manual<br />
* Keep fingers 6 inches from the blade<br />
* Never clear small pieces while the blade is running<br />
* Use push paddles, Do not push work with your hands.<br />
* Keep guards in place<br />
*Do not force the tool, it will do a better job at the rates it is designed for<br />
*Wear proper apparel, do not wear loose clothing or other items that may get caught. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.<br />
*Always wear Safety glasses.<br />
|Instructions=Plan your cuts before making them<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Before doing maintenance on the machine, disconnect it from the electrical supply by pulling out the plug or switching off the main switch!<br />
The table should be kept clean and free of rust.<br />
The lubricant in the gear box must be drained and replaced every 2,500 hours. Multi-purpose gear box lubricant will be suitable.<br />
|FAQs=*Planer snipe - Table rollers not set, Inadequate support of long boards, Uneven feed roller pressure<br />
*Infeed and outfield not set<br />
*Poor feeding of lumber - planer table dirty, V belt sipping<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2017/10/05<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{Equipment Access<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Delta_13_in_Thickness_Planer&diff=16855Delta 13 in Thickness Planer2017-10-26T20:12:01Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Delta 13 in Thickness Planer<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=planer.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Delta 22-580<br />
|PartNumber=S/N 016149J<br />
|StorageLocation=This Planer is located on a rolling cart in the Wood Shop.<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=Departed<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Delta22-580.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=* Planer consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=For planing new wood (No plastics, composites, or plywood) to a desired finished thickness<br />
|Rules=* Connect to Dust collector system and start dust collector before starting planer<br />
* Check that dust collector chute on the planer is clear, the intake is rather narrow.<br />
* DO NOT plane boards shorter than 12 inches<br />
* Do not use on painted wood<br />
* Check any old wood for metal nails screws etc.<br />
* Don't sand or leave anything wet unless you meticulously clean up afterwards, the table will rust. <br />
* DO NOT adjust the speed (lever has been removed intentionally)<br />
|Instructions=* True Up One Face – Feed one face of the board through a jointer. Make thin cuts with each pass until the entire<br />
surface is flat.<br />
* Plane to Thickness – Place the surfaced side (STEP 1) face down and feed the board through a planer until the opposite side is flat. Plane both sides of the board until you achieve your desired thickness. Make thin cuts, alternating sides with each pass. If, during the planing operation, you notice the board twisting, warping or bowing, start again with STEP 1.<br />
* Support both ends of the long workpieces.<br />
* For best results, engage the cutterhead lock before planing. Plane with the grain only. Keep the planer table clean. Occasionally, wax the table surface to reduce friction during the planing operation.<br />
* Cross-cut your lumber to the final length after planing<br />
* CAUTION The knives on the planer will not wear evenly if the wood is fed through the same spot on the table<br />
every time. Feed the wood through the planer at different spots on the table when possible to help eliminate uneven wear of the knives.<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=*If wood slips in the rollers<br />
**Top Coat or past wax on the bed under the rollers Top coat is in Wood shop cabinet - read instructions<br />
**Clean Rollers -unplug and turn off clean with mineral spirits/paint thinner using paper towel and or small piece of scotch brite. Plug in, jog machine and wipe again in order to get most of the roller clean<br />
**Change Blades if dull - Contact zone Coordinator cost is about $45<br />
** If you still have trouble please contact warden and advise - stop using it.<br />
}}</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Category:Wood_Shop&diff=16816Category:Wood Shop2017-10-18T03:18:09Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Zone<br />
|Image=Woodworkingarea.jpg<br />
|Zone Name=Wood Shop<br />
|Zone Coordinator=Greg Smith, Dave Scholl<br />
|Zone E-mail=GregSSmith@aol.com, djscholl@gmail.com<br />
|Map Area=J<br />
|Zone Color=Green<br />
}}<br />
== Shop Safety! ==<br />
<br />
*Keep shop area clear of debris, cutoff pieces and other hazards. <br />
*Wear Eye and Hearing protection at all time using woodworking power tools. <br />
*Wear appropriate clothing. Tie long hair back, remove dangling jewelery, remove work gloves.<br />
*Take your time. Accidents happen because someone is in too big of a hurry. <br />
*Think about what you are doing. If something seems unsafe, it probably is.<br />
== Training vs Authorization==<br />
* When '''Authorized''' to use tools, it means you have been authorized by a trainer to use the tools, this assumes you are a skilled woodworker and have woodworking know-how to use the tool. Authorization refers to the unique things that are required of a user at i3, one knows how to use the tool, maintain it, where parts and tools unique to the tool are kept, and the proper condition to leave it in.<br />
<br />
== Dust Control ==<br />
<br />
*Do not vacuum any metal objects with Large dust-collector machine, it must be used only for sawdust.<br />
<br />
== Table of Equipment==<br />
{| cellspacing="1" cellpadding="1" border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Equipment <br />
! Authorization<br />
! Owner(s)<br />
! Status<br />
|-<br />
{{#ask: <br />
[[EquipName::+]] [[EquipZone::{{PAGENAME}}]] [[EquipStatus::Running||Usable but repair needed||Down]] <br />
| mainlabel=EquipName<br />
| headers = plain<br />
| ?EquipTrainingRequired=Authorization Required<br />
| ?EquipOwner=Owner(s)<br />
| ?EquipStatus=Status<br />
| format=template<br />
| template=Zone Equipment Table Row<br />
| sort=EquipStatus,EquipName<br />
| order=desc,asc<br />
}}<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Raw Material Storage==<br />
<br />
===Material Storage Policy===<br />
<br />
Sheet Goods Rack: (Wood or plastic) (No Glass or sheetmetal) 1/4 sheet (8 sq. ft.) or larger sheet goods, or boards narrower than 12 in. but longer than 4 ft. <br />
A-frame Rack Exterior: Less than 1/4 sheet (8 sq. ft.) but at least 24 in. by 12 in. sheet goods, or boards narrower than 12 in. and between 2 ft. and 4 ft. long. <br />
A-frame Rack Interior: Boards narrower than 12 in. and more than 4 ft. long, and not sturdy enough to stand up in a vertical storage rack.<br />
Shelf under the miter saw: a limited quantity of smaller pieces for open-use will be kept here.<br />
<br />
===Material Owned by Individual Members===<br />
<br />
Raw Material<br />
Space permitting, storage in the Sheet Goods Rack and A-frame Rack is available for the sizes and material described above. Your raw material must be marked with Name, Phone, Email, and Date, or Parking Permit, or it will be considered open-use and available for others to use.<br />
Your raw material should not be stored for longer than 90 days. After 90 days, even fully labeled material becomes open-use. We request that WS Parking Permits not extend for more than 90 days.<br />
<br />
In-Process Projects:<br />
A shelving unit marked for Member Projects is available in the wood shop for small in-process storage while clamping, gluing, finishing, etc.. Use of this area requires a Parking Permit and should not exceed 30 days. Large in-process projects also require a Parking Permit and should be on a cart or some movable rack so that others may move it out of the way.<br />
<br />
===I3-Owned Material Storage===<br />
Any material marked with a date and “i3” or “WS” is reserved until that date for an internal i3 project and should not be used without a Coordinator's permission. After that date, it is available for open-use.<br />
<br />
===Open-Use Material Storage===<br />
Materials stored in the “over the window rack”, the Sheet Goods Rack, or the rolling A-frame Rack, without a proper label as described above, are available for open-use by anyone working in the space.<br />
<br />
Open-Use Compensation:<br />
The intent of open-use material, whether donated or purchased with Wood Shop funds, is to provide a convenient source for small amounts of common materials. We do not have space or funds to provide a complete material supply for projects.<br />
If you use a piece of open-use material longer than 4 feet or larger than a quarter sheet, please deposit an appropriate amount of compensation into the Wood Shop Donation Box. <br />
<br />
Material Donation:<br />
Members wanting to donate a manageable quantity of leftover project material may leave it in the appropriate location, space permitting, where it will be available for open-use. The Coordinators will periodically cull the stored open-use material to remove duplicates and seldom-used items.<br />
<br />
== Consumables ==<br />
<br />
*[[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
<br />
== Power Tool Wish List==<br />
<br />
* i3 ownership 15 inch Floor mount Drill Press<br />
<br />
== Hand Tool Wish List==<br />
* Square<br />
* more good clamps (not harbor freight)<br />
<br />
==Wood Shop Suggestions==<br />
===Add tools, Policies, or anything here===<br />
<br />
== Wood Shop Training ==<br />
* [[Wood Shop Training]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Zones]]</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Category:Wood_Shop&diff=16815Category:Wood Shop2017-10-18T03:09:05Z<p>Gsmith: /* Power Tool Wish List */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Zone<br />
|Image=Woodworkingarea.jpg<br />
|Zone Name=Wood Shop<br />
|Zone Coordinator=Greg Smith, Dave Scholl<br />
|Zone E-mail=GregSSmith@aol.com, djscholl@gmail.com<br />
|Map Area=J<br />
|Zone Color=Green<br />
}}<br />
== Shop Safety! ==<br />
<br />
*Keep shop area clear of debris, cutoff pieces and other hazards. <br />
*Wear Eye and Hearing protection at all time using woodworking power tools. <br />
*Wear appropriate clothing. Tie long hair back, remove dangling jewelery, remove work gloves.<br />
*Take your time. Accidents happen because someone is in too big of a hurry. <br />
*Think about what you are doing. If something seems unsafe, it probably is.<br />
<br />
== Dust Control ==<br />
<br />
*Do not vacuum any metal objects with Large dust-collector machine, it must be used only for sawdust.<br />
<br />
== Table of Equipment==<br />
{| cellspacing="1" cellpadding="1" border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Equipment <br />
! Authorization<br />
! Owner(s)<br />
! Status<br />
|-<br />
{{#ask: <br />
[[EquipName::+]] [[EquipZone::{{PAGENAME}}]] [[EquipStatus::Running||Usable but repair needed||Down]] <br />
| mainlabel=EquipName<br />
| headers = plain<br />
| ?EquipTrainingRequired=Authorization Required<br />
| ?EquipOwner=Owner(s)<br />
| ?EquipStatus=Status<br />
| format=template<br />
| template=Zone Equipment Table Row<br />
| sort=EquipStatus,EquipName<br />
| order=desc,asc<br />
}}<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Raw Material Storage==<br />
<br />
===Material Storage Policy===<br />
<br />
Sheet Goods Rack: (Wood or plastic) (No Glass or sheetmetal) 1/4 sheet (8 sq. ft.) or larger sheet goods, or boards narrower than 12 in. but longer than 4 ft. <br />
A-frame Rack Exterior: Less than 1/4 sheet (8 sq. ft.) but at least 24 in. by 12 in. sheet goods, or boards narrower than 12 in. and between 2 ft. and 4 ft. long. <br />
A-frame Rack Interior: Boards narrower than 12 in. and more than 4 ft. long, and not sturdy enough to stand up in a vertical storage rack.<br />
Shelf under the miter saw: a limited quantity of smaller pieces for open-use will be kept here.<br />
<br />
===Material Owned by Individual Members===<br />
<br />
Raw Material<br />
Space permitting, storage in the Sheet Goods Rack and A-frame Rack is available for the sizes and material described above. Your raw material must be marked with Name, Phone, Email, and Date, or Parking Permit, or it will be considered open-use and available for others to use.<br />
Your raw material should not be stored for longer than 90 days. After 90 days, even fully labeled material becomes open-use. We request that WS Parking Permits not extend for more than 90 days.<br />
<br />
In-Process Projects:<br />
A shelving unit marked for Member Projects is available in the wood shop for small in-process storage while clamping, gluing, finishing, etc.. Use of this area requires a Parking Permit and should not exceed 30 days. Large in-process projects also require a Parking Permit and should be on a cart or some movable rack so that others may move it out of the way.<br />
<br />
===I3-Owned Material Storage===<br />
Any material marked with a date and “i3” or “WS” is reserved until that date for an internal i3 project and should not be used without a Coordinator's permission. After that date, it is available for open-use.<br />
<br />
===Open-Use Material Storage===<br />
Materials stored in the “over the window rack”, the Sheet Goods Rack, or the rolling A-frame Rack, without a proper label as described above, are available for open-use by anyone working in the space.<br />
<br />
Open-Use Compensation:<br />
The intent of open-use material, whether donated or purchased with Wood Shop funds, is to provide a convenient source for small amounts of common materials. We do not have space or funds to provide a complete material supply for projects.<br />
If you use a piece of open-use material longer than 4 feet or larger than a quarter sheet, please deposit an appropriate amount of compensation into the Wood Shop Donation Box. <br />
<br />
Material Donation:<br />
Members wanting to donate a manageable quantity of leftover project material may leave it in the appropriate location, space permitting, where it will be available for open-use. The Coordinators will periodically cull the stored open-use material to remove duplicates and seldom-used items.<br />
<br />
== Consumables ==<br />
<br />
*[[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
<br />
== Power Tool Wish List==<br />
<br />
* i3 ownership 15 inch Floor mount Drill Press<br />
<br />
== Hand Tool Wish List==<br />
* Square<br />
* more good clamps (not harbor freight)<br />
<br />
==Wood Shop Suggestions==<br />
===Add tools, Policies, or anything here===<br />
<br />
== Wood Shop Training ==<br />
* [[Wood Shop Training]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Zones]]</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Minutes:Meeting_Minutes_20171017&diff=16809Minutes:Meeting Minutes 201710172017-10-17T19:48:04Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>=Agenda for [[Meeting Date::10-17-2017]]=<br />
'''Chair: TBD'''<br />
<br />
==Introductions==<br />
====Experienced Members====<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
====New Members & Guests====<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
==Show and Tell==<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
==Old Business==<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
==New Business==<br />
===Announcements===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Proposals===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
==Zone updates==<br />
<br />
===Bicycle Shop===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Classroom===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===CNC Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Commons Area===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Compute Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Craft Room===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Electronics Lab===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Fab Lab===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Graveyard===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Infrastructure===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Injection Molding===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Jewelry Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Kiln Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Laser Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Leather Loft===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Machine Shop===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Media Lab===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Sky Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Tool Crib===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Tree House===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Vinyl Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Welding Zone===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Wiki===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Wood Shop===<br />
* The new planer has arrived and we are in the process of commissioning it, expect it to be available late next week. We still need funding help<br />
* The Jointer is still out of service, parts are scheduled to arrive Thursday, so hopefully next week.<br />
*The contributions box is Hungry <br />
*The old Delta planer is available for any member that would like it, it is not in the greatest shape but might be fixable for an individual use. Please advise greg if you are interested, we will keep it around fora couple of weeks then send it to Old tool heaven (SOCRA)<br />
<br />
==Space Project Updates==<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
==SIGs==<br />
===i3 DetroitSat===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===i3 MotorSports===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===HAM===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Letterpress===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
===Sewing===<br />
* n/a<br />
<br />
= COWBELL =<br />
<br />
==Broom Party==<br />
<br />
==Lost & Found Party==<br />
<br />
<br />
=Meeting Metrics=<br />
<!-- Need to fill out these manually --><br />
* Time completed:<br />
* Attendees:<br />
<br />
==Action Item Summary==<br />
<!-- Semantic MediaWiki Query to collect all action items created with the Action Item Template --><br />
<!-- Example of Action Item Template: {{Action Item|Jamie|Make example action item}} --><br />
<br />
{{#ask: [[-Has subobject::{{FULLPAGENAME}}]] [[POC::+]]<br />
| ?Task = Action Item<br />
| ?POC = POC<br />
| default = No action items.<br />
| mainlabel = -<br />
| headers = plain<br />
| link = none<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==Proposal Summary==<br />
<!-- Semantic MediaWiki Query to collect all action items created with the Proposal Template --><br />
<!-- Example of Proposal Template: {{Proposal|Jamie|Matt|Change the rules to do something new|5|2|PASS}} --><br />
<br />
{{#ask: [[-Has subobject::{{FULLPAGENAME}}]] [[Mover::+]]<br />
| ?Description=Proposal<br />
| ?Mover=Moved By<br />
| ?Second=Seconded By<br />
| ?Aye=Aye<br />
| ?Nay=Nay<br />
| ?Result=Result<br />
| default = No proposals.<br />
| mainlabel = -<br />
| headers = plain<br />
| link = none<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==Attendance==<br />
# Chair<br />
# Secretary<br />
<br />
[[Category:Meeting Minutes]]</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_15_inch_planer&diff=16636Jet 15 inch planer2017-10-05T21:00:04Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Jet 15 inch helical carbide cutter planer<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=15_inch_planer.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet 708543, JWP 15HH<br />
|PartNumber=S/N xxx<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=no<br />
|Status=Not installed<br />
|Value=$2,650<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Jet_15_inch_planer_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
*<br />
|OtherReferences=* Planer consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=This thickness planer is for use with kiln dried wood only and will create parallel top and bottom surfaces<br />
*'''[[This page is under Construction]]'''<br />
|Rules='''[[Use only kiln dried wood, not plywood, composites or plastics]]''' is required for all users<br />
<br />
'''Authorization Required''' for machine adjustments and blade changes<br />
*For cutting wood or plastics, no metals<br />
* Read, understand and follow the safety instructions found in the manual<br />
* Keep fingers 6 inches from the blade<br />
* Never clear small pieces while the blade is running<br />
* Use push paddles, Do not push work with your hands.<br />
* Keep guards in place<br />
*Do not force the tool, it will do a better job at the rates it is designed for<br />
*Wear proper apparel, do not wear loose clothing or other items that may get caught. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.<br />
*Always wear Safety glasses.<br />
|Instructions=Plan your cuts before making them<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Before doing maintenance on the machine, disconnect it from the electrical supply by pulling out the plug or switching off the main switch!<br />
The table should be kept clean and free of rust.<br />
The lubricant in the gear box must be drained and replaced every 2,500 hours. Multi-purpose gear box lubricant will be suitable.<br />
|FAQs=*Planer snipe - Table rollers not set, Inadequate support of long boards, Uneven feed roller pressure<br />
*Infeed and outfield not set<br />
*Poor feeding of lumber - planer table dirty, V belt sipping<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2017/10/05<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{Equipment Access<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_Jointer&diff=16635Jet Jointer2017-10-05T20:35:42Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Jet 6 inch Jointer<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=jetjointer.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet JJ-6CSX<br />
|PartNumber=1415297<br />
|Date=2015/06/29<br />
|StorageLocation=The jointer should be stored in the Wood Shop. It is on a wheeled base so it can be rolled out to provide clearance for working with long boards.<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=OUT OF ORDER<br />
|Value=1200<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Jet_Jointer_Manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=Add links to any other sources that pertain to this equipment.<br />
|Intro=A jointer is used to create a straight surface on a wooden board.<br />
*'''This unit is equipped with a SHELIX Spiral carbide Cutting Head'''<br />
|Rules=* Read and understand the entire owner's manual before attempting operation.<br />
*Read and understand the warnings posted on the machine and in this manual. Failure to comply with all of these warnings may cause serious injury.<br />
*Always wear approved safety glasses/face shields while using this woodworking jointer. Everyday eyeglasses only have impact resistant lenses; they are not safety glasses.<br />
*Before operating this woodworking jointer, remove tie, rings, watches and other jewelry, and roll sleeves up past the elbows. Remove all loose clothing and confine long hair. Non-slip footwear or anti-skid floor strips are recommended. Do not wear gloves.<br />
*Keep safety guards in place at all times when the machine is in use. If removed for maintenance purposes, use extreme caution and replace the guards immediately.<br />
*To prevent nicks on the blades, please check your board carefully and remove nails, screws, and any other metal bits.<br />
* Work with pure wood only, please! NO Masonite, composites, plywood, or plastics <br />
* '''DO NOT adjust the outfeed table''' except when changing blades! if you check them and find they are out of adjustment, contact the zone warden or equipment trainer, they will advise what action you should take.<br />
*At all times hold the stock firmly. Always use a hold-down or push block when surfacing stock less than 12 inches long, or 3 inches wide, or 3 inches thick.<br />
*Do not perform jointing operations on material shorter than 8", narrower than 3/4" or less than 1/4" thick.<br />
*The hands must never be closer than 3 inches to the cutterhead.<br />
* maximum cut depth is 1/8 inch. <br />
*This tool can no longer be used for rabbit joints<br />
* Always use Push Blocks<br />
* Is there any traning required before use?<br />
|Instructions=*Connect the 4 inch dust collector hose<br />
*Make sure the infeed table is adjusted correctly<br />
*To avoid kickback, the grain must run in the same direction you are cutting. Before attempting to joint, or plane, each work piece must be carefully examined for stock condition and grain orientation<br />
*Never pass the hands directly over the cutter knife<br />
*The cutterhead guard must be in place and operating properly <br />
*Turn it On<br />
*Stand away from the cutterhead and turn the machine on for a few moments. Listen for any odd noises, rubbings, vibrations, etc. Correct such problems before attempting operations on the jointer.<br />
*The power switch is located on the front of the base.<br />
*Carefully check your workpiece for knots, holes, staples or any foreign material that might damage knives or pose a risk of kickback. Also check the workpiece for grain orientation.<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Keep the infeed and outfeed tables clean and rust free<br />
Do not adjust or replace carbide cutter without Wood Shop Coordinator approval<br />
}}<br />
{{Ambox<br />
<br />
<br />
| text =</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_Jointer&diff=16634Jet Jointer2017-10-05T20:34:29Z<p>Gsmith: Added info for spiral cutterhead</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Jet 6 inch Jointer<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=jetjointer.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet JJ-6CSX<br />
|PartNumber=1415297<br />
|Date=2015/06/29<br />
|StorageLocation=The jointer should be stored in the Wood Shop. It is on a wheeled base so it can be rolled out to provide clearance for working with long boards.<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=OUT OF ORDER<br />
|Value=1200<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Jet_Jointer_Manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=Add links to any other sources that pertain to this equipment.<br />
|Intro=A jointer is used to create a straight surface on a wooden board.<br />
This unit is equipped with a SHELIX Spiral carbide Cutting Head<br />
|Rules=* Read and understand the entire owner's manual before attempting operation.<br />
*Read and understand the warnings posted on the machine and in this manual. Failure to comply with all of these warnings may cause serious injury.<br />
*Always wear approved safety glasses/face shields while using this woodworking jointer. Everyday eyeglasses only have impact resistant lenses; they are not safety glasses.<br />
*Before operating this woodworking jointer, remove tie, rings, watches and other jewelry, and roll sleeves up past the elbows. Remove all loose clothing and confine long hair. Non-slip footwear or anti-skid floor strips are recommended. Do not wear gloves.<br />
*Keep safety guards in place at all times when the machine is in use. If removed for maintenance purposes, use extreme caution and replace the guards immediately.<br />
*To prevent nicks on the blades, please check your board carefully and remove nails, screws, and any other metal bits.<br />
* Work with pure wood only, please! NO Masonite, composites, plywood, or plastics <br />
* '''DO NOT adjust the outfeed table''' except when changing blades! if you check them and find they are out of adjustment, contact the zone warden or equipment trainer, they will advise what action you should take.<br />
*At all times hold the stock firmly. Always use a hold-down or push block when surfacing stock less than 12 inches long, or 3 inches wide, or 3 inches thick.<br />
*Do not perform jointing operations on material shorter than 8", narrower than 3/4" or less than 1/4" thick.<br />
*The hands must never be closer than 3 inches to the cutterhead.<br />
* maximum cut depth is 1/8 inch. <br />
*This tool can no longer be used for rabbit joints<br />
* Always use Push Blocks<br />
* Is there any traning required before use?<br />
|Instructions=*Connect the 4 inch dust collector hose<br />
*Make sure the infeed table is adjusted correctly<br />
*To avoid kickback, the grain must run in the same direction you are cutting. Before attempting to joint, or plane, each work piece must be carefully examined for stock condition and grain orientation<br />
*Never pass the hands directly over the cutter knife<br />
*The cutterhead guard must be in place and operating properly <br />
*Turn it On<br />
*Stand away from the cutterhead and turn the machine on for a few moments. Listen for any odd noises, rubbings, vibrations, etc. Correct such problems before attempting operations on the jointer.<br />
*The power switch is located on the front of the base.<br />
*Carefully check your workpiece for knots, holes, staples or any foreign material that might damage knives or pose a risk of kickback. Also check the workpiece for grain orientation.<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Keep the infeed and outfeed tables clean and rust free<br />
Do not adjust or replace carbide cutter without Wood Shop Coordinator approval<br />
}}<br />
{{Ambox<br />
<br />
<br />
| text =</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_Jointer&diff=16633Jet Jointer2017-10-05T20:19:17Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Jet 6 inch Jointer<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=jetjointer.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet JJ-6CSX<br />
|PartNumber=1415297<br />
|Date=2015/06/29<br />
|StorageLocation=The jointer should be stored in the Wood Shop. It is on a wheeled base so it can be rolled out to provide clearance for working with long boards.<br />
|Authorization Required=No<br />
|Status=OUT OF ORDER<br />
|Value=1200<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Jet_Jointer_Manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
|OtherReferences=Add links to any other sources that pertain to this equipment.<br />
|Intro=A jointer is used to create a straight surface on a wooden board.<br />
This unit is equipped with a SHELIX Spiral carbide Cutting Head<br />
|Rules=* To prevent nicks on the blades, please check your board carefully and remove nails, screws, and any other metal bits.<br />
* Work with pure wood only, please! NO Masonite, composites, plywood, or plastics <br />
* '''DO NOT adjust the outfeed table''' except when changing blades! if you check them and find they are out of adjustment, contact the zone warden or equipment trainer, they will advise what action you should take.<br />
* maximum cut depth is 1/8 inch. <br />
*This tool can no longer be used for rabbit joints<br />
* Always use Push Blocks<br />
* Is there any traning required before use?<br />
|Instructions=*Connect the 4 inch dust collector hose<br />
*Make sure the infeed table is adjusted correctly<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*Turn it On<br />
*The power switch is located on the front of the base.<br />
|MaintenanceInfo=Keep the infeed and outfeed tables clean and rust free<br />
|ToDos=Purchase a good chuck and more tools<br />
}}<br />
{{Ambox<br />
<br />
<br />
| text =</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=Jet_15_inch_planer&diff=16632Jet 15 inch planer2017-10-05T20:02:22Z<p>Gsmith: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Equipment<br />
|Name=Jet 15 inch helical carbide cutter planer<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop<br />
|LooksLike=15_inch_planer.jpg<br />
|Owner=i3Detroit<br />
|MakeModel=Jet 708543, JWP 15HH<br />
|PartNumber=S/N xxx<br />
|StorageLocation=This machine is located in the Woodshop<br />
|Authorization Required=no<br />
|Status=Not installed<br />
|Value=$2,650<br />
|Documentation=* [[Media:Jet_15_inch_planer_manual.pdf|Owners Manual]]<br />
*<br />
|OtherReferences=* Planer consumables are on this list: [[Wood Shop Consumables]]<br />
|Intro=This thickness planer is for use with kiln dried wood only and will create parallel top and bottom surfaces<br />
*'''[[This page is under Construction]]'''<br />
|Rules='''[[Use only kiln dried wood, not plywood, composites or plastics]]''' is required for all users<br />
<br />
'''Authorization Required''' for machine adjustments and blade changes<br />
*For cutting wood or plastics, no metals<br />
* Read, understand and follow the safety instructions found in the manual<br />
* Keep fingers 6 inches from the blade<br />
* Never clear small pieces while the blade is running<br />
* Use push paddles, Do not push work with your hands.<br />
* Keep guards in place<br />
*Do not force the tool, it will do a better job at the rates it is designed for<br />
*Wear proper apparel, do not wear loose clothing or other items that may get caught. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.<br />
*Always wear Safety glasses.<br />
|Instructions=Plan your cuts before making them<br />
|FAQs=*Planer snipe <br />
**Infeed and outfield not set<br />
**<br />
|Equipment Trainer={{Equipment Trainer<br />
|TrainerName=Greg Smith<br />
|CertifiedDate=2017/10/05<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{Equipment Access<br />
|Zone=Wood Shop</div>Gsmithhttps://www.i3detroit.org/wi/index.php?title=File:Jet_15_inch_planer_manual.pdf&diff=16631File:Jet 15 inch planer manual.pdf2017-10-05T20:00:00Z<p>Gsmith: original planer manual</p>
<hr />
<div>original planer manual</div>Gsmith